How to clean a titanium cylinder
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Soak it in Hoppes #9 over-night and rub with a cleaning patch..
Other then that, I think you're SOL.
rcmodel
Other then that, I think you're SOL.
rcmodel
pinkymingeo
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On the sides of the cylinder I use a Tipton Metal Magic Gun Cloth. Same thing I use to get the flash marks off my stainless cylinders. Works great. I wouldn't mess with the front of the cylinder. Might get into warranty issues that way.
Stainz
Member
Sometimes you get a smoke-like blast remnant down the outside between the flutes. The key is nothing more abrasive than a nylon brush. My 296's Ti cleans well there and actually on the face with Hoppes and Breakfree - and time for the solvents to work. Kept wet for 10+ minutes, and a bit of help with a nylon brush should remove that blast. The exit rings will likely leave a remnant. Don't use abrasive material - or cloths - you'll go through the surface treatment.
Stainz
Stainz
pinkymingeo
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I don't worry much about the surface treatment on the sides of the cylinder. The cylinder stop has already left a drag line all the way around, and holster wear will take care of more of it. I am concerned about the face of the cylinder, and in the charge holes. Those places get nylon bushing, or nothing.
machinisttx
Member
Did you read the manual where it says not to use abrasive polishes? You'll end up wearing away the special coating and then firing the gun will accelerate wear on the cylinder. Repairs will not be covered by the factory warranty.
kingpin008
Member
Yeah, don't use Brasso - exactly for the reasons MachinistTx mentions.
Jeff F
Member
I do a wipe down on the front and sides of all my revolver cylinders with a patch soaked in break free before a range session, it makes cleaning so much easier.
Don't worry about the discoloration.
I wrote S&W regarding how to clean the Ti guns. Their reply was no abrasives, and nothing with Ammonia. Brass brush with non abrasive/ammonia agents was fine.
I have had 3 329s (still have two of them), and I very seldom clean them. The two remaining guns have over 5,000 rounds thru them. I lube them after each use, and will use some Outers foaming bore cleaner if shooting jacket bullets but that's about it. Periodically (seldom) use copper scrubber or Lewis (now Hoppe's) lead remover to get the lead out if a problem with lead bullets.
FWIW,
Paul
I wrote S&W regarding how to clean the Ti guns. Their reply was no abrasives, and nothing with Ammonia. Brass brush with non abrasive/ammonia agents was fine.
I have had 3 329s (still have two of them), and I very seldom clean them. The two remaining guns have over 5,000 rounds thru them. I lube them after each use, and will use some Outers foaming bore cleaner if shooting jacket bullets but that's about it. Periodically (seldom) use copper scrubber or Lewis (now Hoppe's) lead remover to get the lead out if a problem with lead bullets.
FWIW,
Paul
Cayoot
Member
Am I correct in assuming that the new S&W Night Guard series doesn't have this problem? Stainless Steel Cylinders?
I'm really thinking hard on getting one in 44 Mag (mostly for carrying heavy .44 spls while in the woods).
Are these "Carry Much but Shoot Little" guns or can they be shot alot?
I'm really thinking hard on getting one in 44 Mag (mostly for carrying heavy .44 spls while in the woods).
Are these "Carry Much but Shoot Little" guns or can they be shot alot?
You are correct, the cylinders are stainless steel -- I still get some discoloration on stainless cyls, but you don't have to worry much about what you use to clean them with. Anything you shoot a lot, will probably have to have some maintenance/repairs over time.
Here's a write up on the Nightguard S&Ws by Jeff Quinn did on Gunblast.com.
http://www.gunblast.com/SW-Nightguards.htm
FWIW,
Paul
Here's a write up on the Nightguard S&Ws by Jeff Quinn did on Gunblast.com.
http://www.gunblast.com/SW-Nightguards.htm
FWIW,
Paul
Stainz
Member
I fear the light alloy frame will still show some wear where the cylinder edge contacts the cast-in-place cylinder stop during forced spent cartridge ejection. My 296, with that Ti cylinder, shows some 'bright' alloy showing after 5.5yr and ~1.8-2.0k rounds. Some have pared it away with their first 'Hollywood' rap of the ejector - use care! I did remove the rounded UM's Combats I had on it and replaced the OEM boots when I got my Robert Mika's pocket holster for it - it fits many of my pockets now.
With the backstrap/hump covered/insulated with those 'Combats', the 296 still wasn't the most fun plinker I owned, but it did get shot a lot more. I still shoot a few cylinderfuls when I feel the need. It's diet is the GA Arms 200gr Speer #4427 .44 Special Gold Dot now, ever since a similar Al-cased Blazer burst in my 696 several years back. At $47/100, the G. A.'s round is cheaper - and leave s you with nice once shot Starline brass.
So, the best way to clean a Ti cylinder - is to have a CS or SS cylinder! That added mass helps on recoil - and is more forgiving to clean.
The 646 had to have the strength of the Ti cylinder, according to S&W, due to the .40 S&W pressure & clearance. Neat revolver - probably a collectible today.
Staijnz
With the backstrap/hump covered/insulated with those 'Combats', the 296 still wasn't the most fun plinker I owned, but it did get shot a lot more. I still shoot a few cylinderfuls when I feel the need. It's diet is the GA Arms 200gr Speer #4427 .44 Special Gold Dot now, ever since a similar Al-cased Blazer burst in my 696 several years back. At $47/100, the G. A.'s round is cheaper - and leave s you with nice once shot Starline brass.
So, the best way to clean a Ti cylinder - is to have a CS or SS cylinder! That added mass helps on recoil - and is more forgiving to clean.
The 646 had to have the strength of the Ti cylinder, according to S&W, due to the .40 S&W pressure & clearance. Neat revolver - probably a collectible today.
Staijnz
SAWBONES
Member
Gentle rubbing with M-Pro7 on both a cotton patch and with a nylon toothbrush is the best I've found that won't wear the finish on the Ti cylinders.
It won't get the burn rings altogether off the face of the cylinder, but it will minimize them, and it does get all the firing residue off the cylinder sides.
It won't get the burn rings altogether off the face of the cylinder, but it will minimize them, and it does get all the firing residue off the cylinder sides.
Frizzman
Member
I have a S&W 325PD and a 396 Mountain Lite. I use Hoppe's Bore Gel and a nylon bristle brush for the chambers and outside of the cylinder. It does a pretty good job of clean up and does not harm the metal surfaces. The dark circles around the faces of the chambers are of no concern to me...Good Luck
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