How to deal with sweat damaging your carry weapon?

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nitrosport

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Hey everyone

I live in Florida and it's extremely hot. My carry weapon is a S&W model 637. I take it with me to work where there is no AC and I'm generally doing repairs to machines in the heat. I recently started noticing small blemishes on the side of the gun that faces me where it usually contacts sweat. It's also slightly rough in the area that is blemished.

Is there anything you guys use to remove and/or prevent this? I would post a pic but you can't really see anything unless your up close.
 
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The only thing that I can think of doing is maybe carrying it in a holster that would shield it from your sweat a bit and maybe keeping it oiled a little more?

As far as far as fixing it, I dunno. maybe a light buff with some Nvrdull?

I'm in a bit of the same boat in southern Indiana. I carry IWB. I have an old Model 36 that belonged to my father in law that I would love to carry, but as it has an old worn blued finish, it would pit in no time. I elected to carry a rather soulless Glock 36 since it has a rust resistant finish on it and a lot of it is polymer.

I'm seriously thinking about replacing the Glock with an SP101 just because I prefer a revolver over a semi.

Good luck:)
 
Preventing and minimizing sweat damage

I feel for you. Sweat is one of the most corrosive and destructive elements for a gun, as I have learned this from personal experience. My S&W 442 got damaged by sweat during Hurricnae IKE, where I was unable to clean it for a month due to being at work for a month and sleeping on a cot there. I could not reveal that I was carrying. Suffice it to say, it had to stay in my pocket the entire time, and I'd find a port-a-pot to change the set of pants I carried it in when changing. The cylinder experienced the same problems you are describing. I was able to remove much of it with elbow grease and gun oil, but there is still a small amount of visible damage. I'm happy to report that it has not affected the reliability of the weapons whatsoever, as I've fired thousands of rounds since then.

Immediately after I was released from work, I fired several hundred rounds at a range without malfunction. This confirmed my choice and confidence in my j frame and crimson trace laser grips. Many of my co-workers carried pocket/deep concealment pistols in .380, .40 .32, .25 acp, and 9mm etc and were not so lucky. Most of their pocket pistols could not make it through the first magazine. None made it through 3 mags of ammunition. Many had their actions bind shut with rust from the sweat. Many others were rendered non-functional by pocket lint. Only .38/.357 caliber revolvers from ruger and smith and wesson and a glock subcompact were able to stand up as small deep concealment guns and still fire reliably. My j frame survived a months worth of pocket lint, dust bunnies, salt water, rain, sweat, diesel fuel, jet fuel, oil and filth and was still 100% effective. This confirmed my confidence in j frame sized revolvers and glocks. All of the guns had some rust/pitting/and or other discoloration.

To prevent this from happening in the future I switched holsters and use more gun oil and do so more frequently. I switched from a galco leather pocket holster to a Mika's custom holster. I occassionaly use a Uncle Mike's pocket holster as well. Basically I went from using leather holsters where sweat could get through to materials that resisted sweat better. I definitely recommen an impermeable material for your deep concealment holster. Even then in a very hot and humid climate some sweat will get to the weapon as it evaporates and then turns to sweat condensation inside the pocket. I wipe my gun down every day now with some gun oil. It only takes a minute to do. I since have had no futher problems. Only a very close examination will reveal where there was signifigant amounts of rust/pitting.

Hope that helps.

Has anyone else had similiar problems or had to submit a weapons to prolonged exposure to sweat and or salt water? What were your results?
 
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Remove it with a gentle rubbing with 0000 steel wool and lots of oil.

Prevent it with this. Please note this is COLLECTOR oil, not ordinary Breakfree.
 
When I was a LEO I bought a brand new blued Delta Elite and could not keep enough oil on it to make it through a day without it showing rust by the end of the day. Cops have a habit of leaning on their gun or subtly locating it with their elbow constantly etc. I never thought of trying wax, that might work.

So all I can do is commiserate with you. My solution was to trade it on a stainless steel Delta Gold Cup.
 
Wax works pretty well but at temps above 85 degrees F. will actually evaporate off fairly quickly. But if you can reapply every couple of days it will do. The best protection I have found for summer carry of blued guns is Breakfree Collector or Ezoxx. I apply a coat with a small brush and lightly wipe off the excess. The brush will get it into crevices that a rag will not. Breakfree CLP is good also. Anything you use will need frequent application and if your sweat is more acidic than most you will have problems. I have seen people who can rust stainless steel on a hot summer day by just handling your gun for a couple of minutes. I have carried in conditions so humid that I would take a folded bandanna and place it between the holster and my body. This works for a while but once the bandanna is soaked you have to change it just like a diaper. Leather is about the worst material for a summer holster because it will retain the salt in your sweat pretty much forever. I love leather holsters but for summer I usually switch to a padded Cordura nylon rig, it seems to breath better and will dry out quickly once you take it off. Kydex is probably the best choice but I just don't like it. I inspect and re-oil all of my carry guns every night at the minimum. Breakfree CLP and Collector have kept my blued steel from any damage so far. I used to work with a guy who carried a small baggie containing a rag soaked in Birchwood Casey's "Sheath". The maker claims that it neutralizes the salt in your sweat and prevents rust. He would take out the rag and wipe his gun down several times a day. He claims he never had any rust on it.
 
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Thanks for all the replies everyone. I think I'll give the wax a try and see what happens. It's a good thing I don't carry my blued revolver, it could have been much worse.

Ray
 
Try militec-1 I used this on a blued colt cobra that was having surface rust issues. I to live in hot humid florida and once I applied this to my gun,and went from a leather to a nylon holster I never had any rust issues after this.
 
Old Fuff, expert extraordinaire, told me to take the grips off and strip off all of the oil. Brake cleaner or something serious. Then apply high quality auto wax.

Not only is OF right 99.9% of the time (the other .1% he disagrees with me) but he has carried since the fall of the Alamo and lives in Arizona where it can get a little warm.
 
+1 on wax. I've used wax on knives and guns for 35 years. It keeps them safe and shiny under most apps. For holsters try Horsehide very good for sweaty areas see Kramer leather for excellent horsehide holsters.
 
In Wyoming the main thing you have to worry about is frostbite.

Do you even need sweat glands up there?

It can get pretty warm in Wyoming during the summer. And if it lasts over a weekend, you can have a picnic. :D
 
I have thought about this myself~! Not only the hot, humid climates here in
central Alabama; but suppose you stop and have a burger and fries at your
favorite Mickey D's - the salt on those fries is bound too rake havoc on your
CCW piece, especially if its a blued model. That is why I carry a pack of baby
wipes in my vechile, at all times~! ;) :D
 
Guillermo

Ya got a point there. Last year summer was on a Thursday. They held a picnic and I had to work and missed it.;)

Itchy is down in El Paso this week end at Bowling Nationals.. She said it was 90 degrees down there. Is that possible, or is she just funnin' me?
 
For holsters try Horsehide very good for sweaty areas see Kramer leather for excellent horsehide holsters.

This is the best idea (along with an oil or wax coat and holster with a barrier). It gets pretty friggin hot and humid here in E. TN, and so far horsehide and Hoppes Oil (the stuff in the squeeze bottle, not the thin spray bottle stuff) has done me well. None of my carry pieces have ever shown any signs of this, and I only oil them once or twice a month.

Another very important factor is making sure to get a holster that keeps every part of the gun off of your body. I use Crossbreed Supertucks, but there are many options besides them. Having the grip touching skin is not a big deal, but the slide/cylinder/frame need some sort of barrier between you and them to keep them protected.
 
Besides brake cleaner, are there any good choices of products to use to clean off old wax, oil and greases to prepare the surface for break free CLP or Eezox?

Or, do those products penetrate old stuff and get to the metal to work effectively by themselves?
 
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