sweat and rust, summer carry

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10shooter

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I've been carrying on and off duty for 11+ years now and have a few tricks to pass along. If you live in the heat and sweat on your heat, rust is almost always going to happen. In one year my 4506 rusted under the grip panel and mag release. A trick that was passed on to me and I haven't had rust since is to strip down the weapon and wax it. Yes thats right car wax rubbed in leave a protective finish to keep the sweat off. I use Nu Finish the once a year car and gun polish. The polish also replaces the oil I put on the slide. I have never had rust since and I sweat heavy in the Texas heat. I also use this for guns stored in the safe, leaves them looking pretty and rust free.
 
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Yup, it is a well known practice among our regulars, and a good idea. Be sure however that you use WAX and not POLISH, that may have abbrasives in it.
 
thats a great idea! thanks for the tip. it sure is a lot cheaper than my plan to send my sig 228 to sig for brushed nickel refinishing. i love that gun and i could certainly use the extra cash for range ammo.

much appreciated!

kev
 
No, wax shouldn't hurt any finish including bluing and plating. On the other hand some oils that have solvents intended to trmove rust might attack bluing, because that is a form of rust.

Wax also won't degrade wood (rifle, shotgun and handgun stocks) as grease and oil will.
 
You may want to consider which wax you are using. I have read in previous threads that carnuba waxes are often acidic and therefore not the best for use as a wax. During my "research" on this and other threads I came across information on a product called Renaissance wax which does not have this problem. There were other products that were recommended, but I can't remember what they were. Do a search and check for yourself.
 
If you're concerned about additives &/or abrasives in automotive products, just get a can of Johnson's Paste Wax. An old duck/goose hunter & gunsmith trick, one can will probably last you a lifetime for all your guns, & it's excellent safe rust protection.
 
How often do you have to wax the weapon. Is a new coat of wax required after firing/cleaning the weapon?
 
mrhuckins:

It depends on the circumstances. Think of your car. A good coat of wax is supposed to be enough for 6 to 12 months, and it probably goes through a lot more harsh environment then your guns do.

But on the other hand if you wipe down a gun with a solvent that will likely strip the wax then a new coat is called for. Also remember that while you can coat the whole gun all you really need to protect is the part(s) that might rust. For example, If I was carrying a Glock I would just do the slide and exterior of the barrel (the polymer frame won't rust anyhow), but if I was carrying a blued-steel snubby (which I often do) everything but the checkered grips would be waxed.

The advantage of wax over oil or grease is that it doesn't leave the gun feeling wet or excessively slipery, it won't stain your clothes, and it doesn't easily wipe off.
 
Agree with Old Fuff-

Forever I have Used RIG and RIG+P , along with Johnson's Paste wax and Car Wax with Carnuba in it. Gets very hot and humid here in the South. Then again it gets cold, freezing cold with ice out in the Duck blinds too.

Being a guy and having used leather holsters, growing up I had to change up some years ago when I went to using a Belly Band, and I started teaching ladies to shoot for CCW. One word "silk" as spoken by a lady will get your attention. :D

I had some ladies "fuss" about them belly bands and silk blouses. Then some men started using belly bands, and these guys were wearing expensive suits ....shirts were pricey too.

You want to raise eyebrows, male and female alike- Break out the Mother's Car Wax with Carnuba ans fix up the Sigs, Beretta's , Glocks, blued Smiths and such.

For some reason hearing a lady speak of a pricey silk blouse, Galco Belly band and Turtle Wax in the same sentence is kinda funny. :D

Maybe because it was said in the Anatole in Dallas on a day one could fry eggs on the front steps...
 
Wax is good! I have tried tho in more recent times ''Boeshield'' which does leave a pretty tough protective film - needs replenished after cleaning of course. Like Steve I also have found RIG an excellent product.

I was a tad lax when I carried my M85 snub (and I sweat buckets!) - and found the main area that got attacked was left side at top of grips - actually pitted a bit! :(

Now anyways - it's stainless all the way - either SP or now almost exclusively the 226ST.
 
Chris-

When you get old ...

...you will appreciate OLDer Blued guns like I have always preferred and still do. :D

Would someone assist Old Fuff? He just fell out of his chair laughing- again.

One of the most overlooked areas is under the stocks - For folks that use rubber thingy's to cover that part of the frame - you use the term "grips". :p

BTW, I have been outside with the workman - in the heat and humidity, with a '28 Colt DS as BUG- Old GI 45 for Primary- somehow the water hose found me....the water and sweat just beaded up ...

...beaded up just like my P-11 did the other day while in the attic in the heat of the day...itch, itch, scratch...scratch...scraaaatttttccchhhh!!
 
When I get old - yeah right! :p LOL.

Actually - as I reckon you DO know - I get off on lovely blue - instance my M27's - but as far as carry - would hate to muss up one of those. Stainless is the ''cheat'' - saves me a lotta potential grief!! :)
 
Blue Wonder makes a wax product specifically for this application, called Armadillo. It works pretty well. A leather holster will wear away the wax coating in time, though. I find every other month is a good time frame on when to clean off the old and reapply.
 
Thank you!

I just want ya'll to know how entertaining :D and useful this thread has been! I had forgotten about Johnson's Paste Wax (I even have a can at home, D'oh!). I plan to use it to protect my Pistolet Makarova when the great state of Texas issues my CHL, and I think I should look up some of the other products you've mentioned. A little bluing wear gives a carry pistol character, but rust is a no-no.

Another humble thanks,
Dirty Bob
 
I wish ANYTHING worked to keep rust off my guns. I must be some kind of wierd acidic secreting mutant. I stuck a well cleaned, well oiled Detonics .45 (blued) in my waistband one August in Texas and in a couple hours, the entire side that was facing my body has a light coat of red rust on it. There is pitting under the grips of my SP-101....There is rust on the slide of my Kahr. The blade on my Sebenza gets rust spots on it for crying out loud. This is after cleaning it and coating it with everything I can find. Wax..oil...grease etc. The ONLY thing I've found that protects the steel for any length of time is a product called Rust Guardit. It goes on as a liqued and the carrier evaporates and leaves a waxy film. The downside is to make it work, for me, it actually has to have a film of that stuff on it. And its greasy and tacky and will collect dust and dirt and gets on your clothes.

I Love blue guns, but for me, they are relegated to outside holster carry and for the range. As much as I appreciate a fine blueing job, make my concealed carry gun stainless.
 
I use Nu Finish and apply it about every 3 months. For some strange reason I don't shoot my duty weapon much just every other gun I own. Under the grip panels always had the worst rust, no more with wax. The slide and the rest of the frame gets a good rub down with wax. I've got the bottle in front of me, Nu Finish says it has no wax in it and on cars is needed only once a year. Water just beads off.
 
sgt127,

I know this is probably not the place for me to mention it, but if you are having that severe of a problem, I would highly recommend getting your primary deep concealed carry gun refinished by Mac's. I carry around a Kahr MK40 (I had him finish) in a Don Hume inside-the-waist-band holster and have the back portion of the slide touching my skin at all times. In 90+ degree heat, sweating like a pig I don't even worry about it. I don't even wipe it down after a long day...no rust.

I also have an XD he refinished. I will say that I suspect that the finish (any finish for that matter) is better suited to adhere to non-stainless guns, however my MK40 is stainless (of course) and is doing fine. Try him out.
 
Sgt127,
Try some RustPrufe to prevent rust from hand/body perspiration salts. I used to have a lot of problems with hand perspiration rust on my O/U shotguns when shooting skeet. Switched to RustPrufe some 25-30 years ago and haven't had any rust problems since.

Good shooting and be safe.
LB
 
sgt127,

I knew a young Special Forces sergeant once who had the same sort of problem. Teflon coating over parkerizing fixed it for him, last I knew. It might work for you too.


10shooter,

My grandfather started me using Johnson's Paste Floor Wax on guns- steel and wood- more than 40 years ago. I still have his Model 94 .30-30 (mfd in 1929), and it still looks good. The wax is dull if left on when dry, but makes bluing look even better when polished IMHO. I've never seen it hurt any gun I've used it on. It IS an old trick, but it has worked for a long time.

lpl/nc
 
I appreciate all the ideas gentlemen. For a carry gun, like an SP-101 or the Kahr, it doesn't bother me if there are a few pits here and there, especially under the grips. As long as its stainless, I can keep it under check.

Lee Lapin: I do have a P7 with an E nickel frame and a polymer baked on finished slide that has been pretty tough. The guy that did it for me parkerized the slide and then did the shake and bake and its impervious to rust....for now. Sounds pretty close to the finish your guy had done.

Interestingly, I wear an old Rolex Oyster Date-Just. Never a hint of rust. I assume its a very low carbon stainless, the body of a watch doesn't have to be very hard, therefore, nothing to start the rust process.

LBH1: LOVE Rustproof with the applicator wipes. Everything in my gun safe is wiped down with those and gets a wipe down after handling, thank you.

Seed...who's mac?
 
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