How to get used to 12 gauge recoil?

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He asked about excessive recoil and, in my experience, proper fit is number one in reduction of felt recoil. I never got "fitted" for a stock, just cut some plastic out of the trash can and shimmed it myself. Costs a bit of time and some self education. Sure helped ME, not only in attenuating recoil, but in being able to hit.

After 40-something posts and no one mentioned the over the barrel technique? Formal term is I think underarm or high-tuck. Granted, not typically used for target shooting, but it is effective in pretty much eliminating recoil. I do this with my PGO and regular stock shotguns.

I can't see tucking a stock under my arm being any more conducive to good marksmanship than a PGO, but I guess that's just me. Some of the techniques being discussed, tucking the stock, squaring off on the target, sorta reminds me of the homies holding their Glocks over their heads sideways. I only really know one way to hit anything with a shotgun, putting it against my shoulder, so I'm stickin' to it.
 
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Under arm and high tuck can't and shouldn't be compared to "homies" shooting sideways. Those two methods of shooting a shotgun are legitimate and are taught by instructors. With that said, it is not for target/trap shooting.
 
Under arm and high tuck can't and shouldn't be compared to "homies" shooting sideways. Those two methods of shooting a shotgun are legitimate and are taught by instructors. With that said, it is not for target/trap shooting.

It CAN'T be taught as proper marksmanship. Probably has something to do with gun retention at very close range, I'm thinkin'.
 
Indeed, and it's useful for hallway type work but doesn't much work for putting lead on target if the target is displaying much lateral movement.
 
This site explains fit pretty well, even talks about shimming....

http://www.americanhunter.org/articles/how-to-achieve-perfect-shotgun-fit/

Note that shims made of pop bottle plastic can serve you without having some stock maker build you a new stock.

Here's Mossberg's shim kit for the 500. Guess it'd fit the 590, don't know, doesn't specifically list the 590....

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/89...rop-adjustment-spacer-system-mossberg-500-835


Edit, found this diagram which might be helpful....

shotgun_img2.gif
Nice, thanks!
 
Gun fit has zip to do with anything when shooting buckshot and slugs from a bench. And even with perfect fit, a lightweight gun with heavy loads in 12 gauge IS going to kick, and you will feel it more shooting paper or pop cans, etc. I got my first Wingmaster Magnum many moons ago, and was just getting serious about goose hunting and handloading. We went over to the Isaac Walton League at lunch time to shoot a couple of patterns. About 85 degrees and a light dress shirt. That first load of 1-7/8 ounces of #2s had me take two steps backwards. Holy mackerel ! But, I never noticed it in the field, and that gun fit me as well as anything I have ever shot.
 
Those two methods of shooting a shotgun are legitimate and are taught by instructors. With that said, it is not for target/trap shooting.

yeah maybe that's the problem, the art of the shotgun is to hit a moving target with pellets, done properly it doesn't matter the size of the pellets or size of target but now we have Experts who believe a shotgun is more akin to a rifle.
 
Gun fit has zip to do with anything when shooting buckshot and slugs from a bench.

Shooting off the bench, true. I pattern my guns off hand. I have benched for trying slugs on paper. 20 gauge ain't bad, 12, well, they're pretty ripe even off hand and off the bench just exacerbates the problem. But, with a proper fitting gun, off hand, I can tolerate even slugs. If it don't fit, it can really hurt.
 
What about these shock absorber stocks I've read about? They have a spring or something in 'em that absorbs some of the punch so your shoulder doesn't have to. They're usually in a tacticool version with a pistol grip, but I've also seen 'em online that look like field stocks. I've never seen the need for one, but if you have a real problem with recoil involveing your shoulder......:D

This seems to be a good discussion of those shock absorbing stocks...

http://shotgunreport.com/2014/01/20/recoil-absorbing-stocks/
 
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Beretta has their KickOff system, there is the ISIS system from England, Gracoil, G^2, etc. If they add weight they reduce actual recoil; otherwise they can elongate the recoil pulse so it may feel softer, but your shoulder is still taking the brunt (and sometimes your face)
 
The basic rule for any defensive shotgun IMO is KISS. Keep it simple...

Expensive mechanical recoil reducing doodads might be OK for the trap range, but for defensive use? I'd rather not. A shorter stock and a premium recoil pad should do fine for anyone who is basically healthy, plus of course learning how to shoulder the gun.

I'm 6'3" and wear a 37" sleeve. The stocks on the house guns here (870s) tend to run 12.5" - 13" LOPs, including the recoil pad.

Why? Because that LOP fits my wife properly, and because I can adapt to it. What adaptation is necessary? The same one a generation of GIs in WW1 figured out when shooting the 1903 Springfield - don't wrap your shooting hand thumb over the top of the stock, just lay it along side the trigger finger knuckle. Otherwise your thumb bashes you in the old schnozzola under recoil.

The old trinity still comes into play - mindset, skillset, toolset. In that order. Recoil is a matter of physics, it's going to happen, but it's a big part mind over matter - and if you don't mind too much, it isn't going to matter too much, unless something is wrong of course. Knowing some of the physiological basics of handling recoil is a big help, but those have to be learned by teaching, example and experience. Hardware is always last, because it matters least - with the proper attitude and skillset, any defensive shotgunner should be able to pick up pretty much any functional repeating shotgun and use it effectively and safely.

I would STRONGLY suggest shooting a pumpgun with a shorter stock before beginning adaptations to your own, to find out what approximate length fits you better... and some good training will help also.
 
OP,
FWIW, I think you have to tuck it in tighter to your shoulder. An SG doesn't slap so much as shove. If you have it tucked in well it will just shove you, not slap like a rifle.
 
At hallway distances, your defensive shotgun is basically throwing a 4-6" group, with X numbers of projectiles per shot..... so, yes, AIMING the gun in order to place the group correctly is essential. At those same distances, a single bead should be be enough, but if you don't use that bead, you may well miss. Your "scattergun" doesn't scatter 00 buck a whole lot at 30 feet.
 
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If you are still pretty young: protein shake and hit the weights.

Seriously, when I am in "bulking season" my heavy hitters seem to kick less... but, if it hurts, don't do it. If you have tried everthing and it still hurts, go with a 20 gauge. It's not worth arthritis or worse to use a 12 when a 20 can do just as fine.
 
so, yes, AIMING the gun in order to place the group correctly is essential
No, it's not 'essential' - it's slow. <sigh> Looking where you want the shot to go and being able and willing to pull the trigger are both essential to HD/SD, as is having a gun that can put shot where you look. Everything else is, at HD/SD ranges, simply a net negative in terms of time and task management. The ability to point and not aim a shotgun has nothing to to do with pattern size and everything to do with the fact that the shotgun is intended by design to put shot where you look. If it doesn't, or if you don't know if it does, then you need to fix that.
 
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Buy you a mesa tactical recoil reducing stock with a hydraulic enidine recoil buffer tube, Limbsaver m4 slip on butt pad, and shoot law enforcement low recoil buck and it will be like shooting a .22 I kid you not.

I speak from experience. Even full powered loads are nothing with this stock setup.
 
The only shotgun I have is an old, cut-down single shot.
There is no "getting used to" that thing for me. So I use 3 inch buckshot to compensate for the flinch I get whenever I pull the trigger.

I was trained on Remington 870s and light recoil buckshot/slugs.
That combination makes a 12 gauge VERY manageable granted your stances is correct.
 
Proper fit is necessary!
Toughen your sholder up with a bunch of light target loads,
It's not real pretty but I bought a "Kick-EZ' slip on recoil pad that did wonders on my Westernfield/Mossberg pump! About $40 and does it ever shoot soft now!
No doubt, big buckshot loads kick! They're making the most power for serious work so ya have to expect some punishment. It's worth it for what they do!
I shoot either Super-X or the plain Military stuff and both DO kick!
I have a special condition, being disbled and the recoil nearly knocks me off my feet! I try to square-up and plant my body behind the gun and just let it hang loose to take up the kick.
You also might consider going to a 20ga or even a 20 ga semi-auto.
HTH, ZVP
 
Thanks everyone for all the replies. I am pretty green when it comes to shotgun shooting so the information here is all helpful. I'll go to a training session or two before I fiddle with the stock. I still don't get the advice to look at the target instead of the sights. The ghost rings on the Mossberg are well made and very fast to use so it seems counterintuitive not to use them, but maybe that's my rifle experience talking.
 
but maybe that's my rifle experience talking.

Likely your answer.

Just to support point shooting, watch top clays champions, skeet or trap. They have only a rib and bead, yet they can hit a small clay moving target in the time it takes the clay to get airborne. That clay is smaller than a man's head, as small as his heart, and it's moving. Those guys must not only concentrate on the clay pigeon, but lead the clay target which is mostly instinct by the time you get that good.

Actually, I don't think you cold bust as many clays if you had to use sights. That's precisely why good shooters don't use sights. Humans are a lot easier to bust, bigger, slower target and closer range.
 
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If you have a friend that has a regular shotgun, wooden stocks and 28-30 inch barrel, shoot that gun.

You will find a major difference in shooting, by the way use 1 1/8 oz. target loadings and shoot at clay targets. As said a shotgun is a pointing gun, it is not aimed.
 
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