How to Open AND Deepen Primer Pockets?

[Gearhead Jim]

I have 3,000+ Winchester once-fired .380 cases, from ammo made 2-3 years ago. The primer pockets are all a little too small- too narrow, so it's hard to seat the primer; and too shallow, so even if I use enough pressure (Dillon 650) to seat them fully, about 30% are still "high". The only way to get them flush or slightly below is to use a LOT of pressure, to the point that the primers are noticeably flattened; I worry about a possible detonation or simply breaking my machine.

I'm using Winchester small pistol primers, any other brand of brass works just fine on my machine with these primers. It's definitely a brass problem.

Is there some easy-to-use tool that will both open up the diameter of the pockets, and also deepen them a little? Most tools (like the Dillon swager) are designed only to remove a military crimp, they don't go all the way to the bottom of the pocket and don't seem designed to deepen the pocket.

Suggestions?

 

[rcmodel]

Primer pocket uniformer.

http://www.sinclairintl.com/reload/primer-pocket-uniformer.aspx

rc

 

[Gearhead Jim]

Thanks.
Do you recommend one in particular?

 

[243winxb]

Get one thats tungsten carbide. It will stay sharp longer. It needs to work with a power drill. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/764406/redding-primer-pocket-uniformer-tool-small

 

[GJSchulze]

Try using Federal SP primers. The metal cup is softer and easier to get into tight pockets.

 

[Walkalong]

K&M PP Uniformer:

https://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/...mall-rifle_pistol-primer-correction-tool.html

 

[Rule3]

They had to have been primed the first time. Sounds odd?

Winchester primers are easy to use and certainly should go into Win brass. Sure everything is set up correctly??

 

[gamestalker]

No offense, but you sure seem to be having a lot of issues priming those .380's.

You really shouldn't have to do anything different, or use a particular primer brand to get them seated. As someone else mentioned, if they're already primed, then the pockets should be fine. As far as dimensions, SPP's, are SPP's, and all should fit just fine in Win. brass.

I would check to make sure you have the correct (small) priming tip installed.

Double check you aren't unintentionally trying to prime using SPP's also.

You can mail me one of the offending pieces of brass, I'm kind of interested in finding out what's going on here. I have both CCI500's and Win SPP's to check them with.

GS

 

[243winxb]

Its easy to check pocket depth using a RCBS vernier dial caliper . After smashing primers (looked normal) into the same Sako 38 spec brass for years , using a ram prime, I bought the Redding tool a few week ago. Problem solved. But check that the shell plate is as tight as possible, but still turns. This will keep the brass in better alignment when seating a primer.

 

[Gearhead Jim]

Regarding the question of possible problems with the primers or the machine (Dillon 650) or the operator:

I have 12 other headstamps on my .380 mixed brass, all of them prime easily and to the correct depth with the same primers, same machine, and same guy pulling the handle.

The initial factory loaded Winchester ammo did have primers that appeared to be slightly crushed, but I didn't pay much attention because it was factory ammunition and they were flush.

I've found some similar complaints on other forums about Winchester brass having too-tight primer pockets, mostly in the last couple of years.

Looking at some of the primer pocket tools others have suggested, it looks like I'll need something that holds the cartridge case while working on it, similar to the Dillon swager (but the Dillon doesn't go deep enough). The .380 cases are so small, and the twisting force required to scrape away excess brass (I have a crimp-remover that I've experimented with) is high enough, I can't simply hold the case in my hand. I experimented with clamping them in a padded vise, but 3,000 cases would take forever.

******************************

 

[Gearhead Jim]

Gamestalker-
PM sent, thanks.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

Gearhead - I chuck the case in the drill and hold the reamer.

 

[gamestalker]

I've yet to need to alter a pocket, with the only exception being crimped one's.

GS

 

[murf]

win primer pockets suck! just finished prepping a couple hundred 9mm cases. i always uniform the pockets and always take metal off the bottom of the win pockets, fc, r-p, speer, hardly ever. for some reason, win pockets foreshorten after every firing.

win pockets also have a more rounded corner at the bottom than the other brands. that may be your call for a narrow pocket. a uniformer will also sharpen up that corner and make the primer easier to seat.

you could always switch to fc cases and not have to mess with it!

murf

 

[Gearhead Jim]

Jesse Heywood-
Nice idea, thanks.

It would still be nicer to have a machine that holds the case by itself, simply to save time. But your idea sure beats the vise!

 

[Gearhead Jim]

Murf-
Winchester pockets get shorter after each firing?
So I would need to re-do the process after every couple of loadings?

Or do you mean they always get shorter after the first firing but stay fairly constant after that?

 

[CLP]

Maybe get several brands of primers to see if one seats better than the others?

The thought of uniforming 3000+ primer pockets- even with the uniformer chucked in a drill- makes me shudder.

 

[murf]

they shorten after each firing (i'm talking 9mm cases here). i wouldn't worry about "after each firing" as much as the initial case prep. there is plenty of leeway in pocket depth and primer height to just get the pocket uniform the first time and then forget about it (especially a low pressure round like the 380 auto).

i'm a little over the top on case prep and uniform every time. that is how i know the win case primer pockets are not real consistent.

like the other guys are saying, just get the uniformer, do it once and load em up.

murf