How to remove the ak "slant brake"

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Aka Zero

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Ordered an ak (yes I found on cheap still)

But I have always hated the little slant brake they have, so it shall be gone days after it's arrival. Problem is, how do you get those things off? Seen them and don't know if vise grips would be enough.

Anyone done this?
 
I replaced mine with a DC Vortex from SEI, it accepts the .30 caliber SEI/FEI DC sound suppressor :evil:
 
I hate to side track, but I have a quick question about the slant brake.

My RPK's brake is a little loose and 'wiggles' and also happens to shoot about 6" high at 50 yards with the sight all the way down. I have heard from others that a loose brake can cause this, anyone agree? Would a different brake solve this issue, I cant tighten it anymore and then have the pin pop through the cut on the brake either.
 
My RPK's brake is a little loose and 'wiggles' and also happens to shoot about 6" high at 50 yards with the sight all the way down. I have heard from others that a loose brake can cause this, anyone agree? Would a different brake solve this issue, I cant tighten it anymore and then have the pin pop through the cut on the brake either.
Remove the brake entirely and try shooting it. If it still shoots high, then it isn't the brake.

My slant brake is slightly loose as well and I have not noticed any adverse effects with it. When you say the sight is "all the way down," you're adjusting the elevation of the front sight post, correct? The gun is meant to be sighted in at 25 meters with the rear sight in the "1" (100m) position.
 
No, I am putting the rear sight at the 50 mark. How do you adjust the front post, because mine has a lot of thread that isn't screwed in and that sounds like it might be the issue.
 
No, I am putting the rear sight at the 50 mark
The "50" mark is probably 500 meters. I'm not familiar with RPK sights, but if it looks like this:

RPK_rearsight-vi.jpg

then the lowest setting would be the "1", 100 meters. You read the distance off the front of the slider; in the photo above, it's set for 200 meters. Note that the 100 meter setting is not all the way back; all the way back is the "battle sight" setting, which is the same as the "3" (300 meters) setting.

Try setting your sight to "1" and shooting at 50 yards. It should be closer, if my hunch is correct.

Also, be aware that screwing the front sight post down (into the sight base) raises the point of bullet impact. If the rifle is shooting high when set on 100 meters, then you need to unscrew the front sight post so that more of it protrudes, and this will bring the point of impact down.

There is a little tool you can buy that fits over the front sight post to screw it in or out, or you can pad the jaws of a pair of duckbill pliers with electrical tape and use it to turn the sight. But make sure your rear sight is set to the proper distance first, as that may be the culprit.
 
benEzra said:
There is a little tool you can buy that fits over the front sight post to screw it in or out, or you can pad the jaws of a pair of duckbill pliers with electrical tape and use it to turn the sight
Why spend money on a tool, when you should have gotten every tool needed with the rifle?

akcleankitbuttstockdb0.jpg


How to use the buttstock cleaning kit.

It does a lot more than cleans.
 
I didn't read this very closely, but has anyone pointed out that the slant brake screws and un-srews in the opposite direction that you'd expect?
IOW, it's not "righty-tighty,lefty-loosy".:D

(edit: looks like Brian did)
 
I don't think removing the slant break without replacing it is a great idea. The slant is designed to push the rifle to the left to counteract the violence of the right-hand bolt. Removing it you'll notice a higher amount of kick.

And my brake is VERY loose and it still shoots great groups out to 100 yards.
 
What are the 922(r) implications of taking the slant muzzle brake off an AK and putting a flash hider on? Assuming it's the usual Century type WASR/Yugo/etc that is put together with the usual mix of US and kit parts. Does it matter if the flash hider is a made in US vs made elsewhere? Just kind of curious.
 
1911Today said:
I don't think removing the slant break without replacing it is a great idea. The slant is designed to push the rifle to the left to counteract the violence of the right-hand bolt. Removing it you'll notice a higher amount of kick.
You won't notice a thing in a semiautomatic rifle.

marktx said:
What are the 922(r) implications of taking the slant muzzle brake off an AK and putting a flash hider on? Assuming it's the usual Century type WASR/Yugo/etc that is put together with the usual mix of US and kit parts. Does it matter if the flash hider is a made in US vs made elsewhere? Just kind of curious.
Well, the 922r is a federal law. So let's play the "if it's a US made part, replace it with a US made part" (or better off, replace anything you take off with a US made part).

Century is very good about marking the parts they make here. Look for "Made in USA" or a "C" in a circle.
 
benEzra, I was confused about the settings, I wasn't sure if it was read of the middle of the slider or the front. It is set for 100 yards, but 6" high at 50 seems dramatic to me.
 
Does anyone have a list of what wasr parts are us made?

I know the stock and fore grip on mine are ( six position, and galil type)

Also, does anyone sell a 5 round clip for high cap ak's? Have seen them for saigas and singles stacks, but Might want to go legally hunting with the ak.
 
benEzra, I was confused about the settings, I wasn't sure if it was read of the middle of the slider or the front. It is set for 100 yards, but 6" high at 50 seems dramatic to me.
That is quite high. Assuming the same sight height for your rifle as for a regular AK (2 inches above the bore), my ballistics program says your rifle should be only 1/10" high (not even measurable) at 50 yards. So if you are shooting 6 inches high at 50, you are way high at 100 and are probably zeroed around 400 (guessing).

Definitely get the little tool from the buttstock cleaning kit (thanks, Nalioth!) and screw your front sight pin OUT (up, more threads showing) until you are more or less zeroed at 50. Then back up to 100 and check zero, it should be close.

(Screwing the front sight pin UP pushes the muzzle DOWN relative to the line of sight, and hence moves the point of impact down.)

One note when zeroing an AK, though--when shooting from a bench, I've had best results with the rifle supported by something fairly soft. A rolled up coat under the handguard (not the barrel, or else you'll have powder stains on the coat) atom a hard rest, or even shooting without a rest with my left elbow propped on the bench, etc., rather than the barrel or handguard resting directly on a hard rest or firm sandbag. The vibrations caused by the heavy gas piston getting blasted off the cantilevered gas block can cause the rifle to jump off a hard rest and shoot a little high (though probably not 6 inches high at 50 yards). Or, if you are shooting from a rest, put the rest as far back as possible, i.e. under the front of the receiver just ahead of the magazine and not under the barrel or handguard). I've gotten more consistent groups that way. And make sure you grasp the forend fairly firmly, so that the rifle is zeroed the same way you'd be shooting in the field.
 
Your shooting high has nothing to do with the slant brake. Your sight post is screwed all the way down, to lower you bullet placement you need to raise the front sight post. The front sight needs to be moved in the opposite direction you want the bullet to go and the rear sight moves in the same direction you want the bullet to go. :banghead:
 
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