How to Shoot a Big Bore off the Bench

[BBW]

I just bought a new 375H&H. It's nice. A Remington 700 xcr with a Leupole 2.5-8x scope and a laminated thumbhole stock.

I'm still breaking the barrel in. But Getting back into the 375 I'm reminded of the frustration I have shooting these things off the bench. When I use a normal front rest (bench rest with a sand filled Protektor bag) I get so much muzzle jump that I can't tell if bad groups are the gun or just a result of the jump.

I can get around this somewhat by holding the rifle with a death grip. But, of course, that's not the "good technique" that I've learned to use with my 308s.

Is that the key? Do you have to just hold onto these things for dear life? Or is there some other technique that I just haven't stumbled upon yet?

Thanks,

Ben

 

[jbkebert]

Feel your pain

I went out yesterday for a couple of hours and shot my .375 h&h put about 20-25 rounds through it the fired my .300 win around 30 shots. Both fired from a t/c encore. When I got home my shoulder was killing me and resembeled a exicting new camo pattern of black and blue. Shooting from dual bench bags both front and rear will help a little. Since you do not need to support the stock of the rifle from underneath. I tuck my left hand under the stock shouldered on my right. I was getting a lot of muzzle flip. Granted the bullet is down range before most of that flip occurs. Shooting with the back bag supporting the stock I laid my left hand on fore stock not much pressure just enough to keep the rifle on the bench. my groups did improve. If that does not work and you dont want to spend $200 on a dangerous game bench rest. There is one made by MTM that sells for around $45.00 it has a strap that goes around the buttstock and the whole thing can be weighed down as much as 50 pounds. I am really thinking about picking one up to try. I just want to many toys at the moment and need to sort out what comes first.

 

[win71]

There is no good way

I shoot three heavy recoiling rifles off the bench. A 300 RUM, .375 H&H, and a .416 Rem Mag. I built a small shoe box sized box and put the sand bags on top. If you have slings on the rifles it's better to take them off. I have a couple bags under the rear of the butt stock. This setup keeps the rifle up off the bench about 10 inches. I hold the fore stock ahead of the sand bag box. I try to use just enough grip to keep the recoiling rifle under control. It does require a pretty good grip on the fore stock.

It's not the best way to get good groups but if you stay consistent with your pressures it's ok. Incidentally, the RUM is the worst one for really slamming the shoulder. My 375 is a Colt Sauer and it's more of a steady push almost straight back. I still don't hold it like it was a .222 or 22-250.............

 

[Deus Machina]

I figured out a trick with my Nagant, during sighting it in and letting a group of women shoot it.

Use a sling, if possible. Remove the sling from the rear mount. Still attached to the front mount, tie the sling to a weight--I used my .308 ammo can, full of x54r and .22.

Either adjust the sling until it's tight or tie it short so you can tighten it by raising your rest up. You want the least slack possible.

It won't work out on the field, but it works on the bench. It may lessen the shove back a little, it might not, but it keeps the barrel from jumping as bad. And as long as it's to a stock with a floated barrel, it shouldn't affect your POI.

 

[Javelin]

Have you looked into buying a "lead sled"?

I am not even sure who makes the darn things.... I have one in my garage. Have not used it but the idea is simple and it is designed to take the recoil (your gun even straps into it if you like).

 

[a-sheepdog]

I saw an article somewhere that the guy shooting threw his rifle case over his shoulder and had it between the butt of the rifle and his shoulder. Looked effective. I have never tried it. I have considered getting a vest or something with extra padding for my 300 Win Mag and my 45-70. I know, not the hardest kicking, but they do grate on me after a while and i don't want to develop a flinch.

 

[TehK1w1]

+1 for a Caldwell lead sled. For the really big rifles, the lead sled DFT looks nice. You can get a lead sled for about $100 and they can help steady your aim as well for sighting in rifles of all types. They reduce the recoil by a fair amount, up to about 75% I think.

 

[feets]

Get a quality muzzle brake installed. It will help your shooting on and off the bench.
It took my 300 WM from a bruiser to a plinker. I put 300 rounds through it in one weekend without the slightest hint of tenderness on the shoulder.

 

[BBW]

Thanks guys. I actually tried a lead sled a few years back and didn't really like it. It's good for minimizing felt recoil. But I found it didn't do anything to help with the muzzle jump. And that's really where I need the help. I've heard about using straps over the forend to hold it down. But it seems like the strap would sit on the barrel, chaning the harmonics. So I'm not sure how much I would really learn that way.

I guess I'll just keep on with using my death grip technique. It's the best of everything I've tried so far.

I've had others tell me that the muzzle flip isn't important as the bullet will have left the barrel already, but I don't really buy it. If I shoot my 375s with the same technique I use with my 308s (support hand wrapped under the stock and holding the rear bag) I get groups as large as 10". I can easily get those down into the 2-3" range just by getting a good grip on the stock with my support hand. But I'm thinking this rifle should be able to do an inch or less. But only if my technique improves I guess.

Ben

 

[feets]

The recoil will make you develop a flinch. It can actually get worse with time. This can happen without you knowing it.

The brake will keep the muzzle down AND reduce felt recoil.

They work.


Watch this video

 

[Runningman]

I just tell you what works for me shooting heaver recoiling rifles off a bench rest.

1. Get a Past Mag plus recoil shield. I think they got an even better one (thicker) these days called Super Mag plus recoil shield.

2. Get a Past recoil shield.

3. Get a Past recoil shield.

4. Use a very firm grip on the rifle (stock only). (One notch below death grip).

 

[JimmAr]

I have a very nostalgic masochist desire to shoot a hot loaded 375RUM off the bench or a 460 wby non-muzzle braked. To bad I know of no one that has either..

 

[Hoxviii]

I detest "lead sleds" or any other not portable recoil reduction devices. For any rifle, I like to learn to shoot it the way it'll be shot when I'm actually using it; no chance I'm going to have a lead sled in the field, just a death grip and my prior experience.

The last 3 days I've burned through about 30 rounds of 405gn 45/70 right at 2,000 fps out of a Marlin 1895 off the bench. 7 lb rifle, no recoil pad, no nothing. Harsh, but controllable with proper grip is about how I'd describe it. Worse than a .375 H&H from a full size rifle, for sure.

For these rounds I give the gun a death grip and really lean into the shot, but loosen my back up. When the shot goes I get popped in the shoulder, but the relaxed back sits me back up and then I plop right back down. It's just a matter of making the impact take as long as possible.

Then grab onto the sling with your weak hand and pull straight down. Have your arm be the extra weight to break the muzzle flip. I don't know if it actually reduces flip, but i do notice I stay "one with the rifle" and my sight alignment doesn't change.

 

[rat31465]

Past Recoil Shields are very effective. Don't do the Death Grip thing or weight the rifle down as this will change your POI on the scopes zero when you go to shoot in the field. It's all about form. Find a comfortable shooting position and don't try to fight the recoil. You'll soon find that if you are concentrating on your shooting form sight picture, breathing and trigger squeeze intently enough...the recoil won't seem to bother you.

 

[feets]

I guess I'm alone in the world of muzzle brakes.
Try shooting a 50 BMG with a brake and once more without it. Tell me how effective they are.

It's nice to use the laws of physics to your advantage and have the gun hold itself down.

 

[tango2echo]

Lay a bag of shot over the scope. Adds about 10lbs or so, should help with the muzzle jump. Use a good gel-filled recoil pad (the kind that goes in your shirt) like the Browning Decelerator. Short of that, your either going to need a muzzle brake or lots of time on the bench. Personally, I don't think the .375h&h kicks all that hard if you work your way up to it. To me it doesn't feel much worse than the .300WM or .338WM. Do you reload?


T2E

 

[dagger dog]

That muzzle jumping off the front rest, would have nothing to do with you bad groups, if you don't try to manhandle the front of the gun, LET IT JUMP, then try to control it after the shot so it doesn't damage the gun. If YOU have it in a death grip YOU are the one causing the bad grouping.

I would do away with the rest and go with a broad enough array of sandbags to keep the rifle safe, your left arm and hand crossed under the right and squeezing the rear bag or fingers of the left hand on the top of the stock comb area to help in recoil, but don't force the stock down with that left hand but rather use it to keep that cheek slap under check. If you have to use a reciol pad do it, what ever it takes , but having a death grip only causes more pain!

You are into a territory that I no litlle about with that CANNON, but I have shot some very hard kicking 12ga 3" slug guns to sight in scopes with the forearm let loose as I described, and came away with a LOT LESS DAMAGE to my RIGHT EYE and CHEEK than I did when I tried to MANHANDLE them.

It ain't a fun job, trying to sight in those big boomers.

Just my opinion.

 

[1858rem]

The recoil will make you develop a flinch. It can actually get worse with time. This can happen without you knowing it.

yah that sucks, i noticed i started getting mine back soon as i started shooting my first .308, then switch to the .204 an clearly i was flinching again. i flinch after the shot though for some reason

 

[Olympus]

+1 on the Caldwell Lead Sled. I just got one for Christmas and I shot 50 rounds at a time with my .300 Mag without suffering a single bit. I'd shoot it more, but that's all the bank account can support at one go. I'm really impressed with the Lead Sled and would recommend it to anyone. It takes a little of the skill of shooting out, but if you're looking to sight in a rifle and want to get it shooting at the best the rifle can shoot, go for the sled.

 

[saskboy]

Does the muzzle jump affect point of impact when holding onto the front of the stock? I see people on youtube shooting without holding on but that is with non magnum calibers.

 

[d2wing]

A friend of mine highly recommends the lead sled. I use a thick leather case over my shoulder and a past shield shooting magnums.

 

[elktrout]

We all have somewhat different methods to deal with recoil and muzzle jump. I use a benchrest front support with attached forearm bag and then a standard rear bag like the ones you buy already filled.

Three things I have found that help with a hard kicking gun are:

1. Past recoil pad and under it one or more pieces of thick padding used under wall to wall carpeting. Also, a folded large sized hand towel from your bathroom may help. The point is to bulk up the protection on your shoulder.

2. Adjust the benchrest (front rest) up high and elevate the rear rest accordingly with a brick or heavy block of wood, like a 4 x 4. The more erect you can sit behind the gun, the more you can roll with the recoil and not feel like a sledge hammer is beating you.

3. Hold the forearm of the rifle the same way that you will when shooting in the field. I find that I shoot best that way and the muzzle flip is controlled.

I shoot a 7mm Weatherby Mag comfortably using this method.

Hope these suggestions help you in some way.

 

[Horsemany]

elktrout has it right on this. I hold the forearm just behing where it rests on the rest or bags. Let the rifle roll up and control it with the forearm. Don't try to stop it from jumping, just control it so it's not slamming back down. Once you get in the rythm it's pretty easy.