bought an 870 recently and just want the LE police wood forends. first and most important, I need to know how to install it before I buy it.
Is there a special tool I need?
Is there a special tool I need?
how to take off 870 wood forend?
- Thread starter yongxingfreesty
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There is in fact an official 870 forend wrench tool, which is basically a hunk of steel plate contoured to slip inside the forend and engage the nut that holds the wood bit to the metal arms/tube/etc that engage your bolt.
It's not unheard of for it not to reach the nut on older "corncob" forends, in which case I've faked it by overextending a big pair of needlenose pliers with no adverse results.
It's not unheard of for it not to reach the nut on older "corncob" forends, in which case I've faked it by overextending a big pair of needlenose pliers with no adverse results.
You can make the tool with a piece of pipe a hacksaw and a file.....the pipe I used has a 1 1/16" inside diameter and is about three inches long.
870 Forend Removal
I've found the easiest thing to do is buy a 1 1/4 inch by 1/8 inch piece of flat stock at the hardware store then cut it to a length of about 6 inches using a hack saw. Then remove the action bar and forend assembly from the shotgun by unscrewing the end cap and releasing the action bar by pushing in on the shell stops located inside the receiver (the take down instructions for dissasembling an870 will show you how to do this).
Once the action bar and forend assembly have been removed you will see a ring nut on the front end that is recessed into the wood. This ring nut has two slots on opposite sides. The flat stock you purchased will fit the slots perfectly. Use a crescent wrench to turn the flat stock counter clockwise. Once the nut is removed you should be able to wiggle off the forend but do it carefully so as not to bend the bars or split the wood. Note that the threads are very fine so when you reassemble it with the new forend be very carefully not to cross thread the nut and tube. Hope that helps!
I've found the easiest thing to do is buy a 1 1/4 inch by 1/8 inch piece of flat stock at the hardware store then cut it to a length of about 6 inches using a hack saw. Then remove the action bar and forend assembly from the shotgun by unscrewing the end cap and releasing the action bar by pushing in on the shell stops located inside the receiver (the take down instructions for dissasembling an870 will show you how to do this).
Once the action bar and forend assembly have been removed you will see a ring nut on the front end that is recessed into the wood. This ring nut has two slots on opposite sides. The flat stock you purchased will fit the slots perfectly. Use a crescent wrench to turn the flat stock counter clockwise. Once the nut is removed you should be able to wiggle off the forend but do it carefully so as not to bend the bars or split the wood. Note that the threads are very fine so when you reassemble it with the new forend be very carefully not to cross thread the nut and tube. Hope that helps!
hmm, thanks for the info guys. i tried using needlenose pliers to get it off countercockwise and it would budge. ill have to get that flat stock, makes life easier.
Or, if you don't want to go the DIY tool route:
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=723227
This tool (or a similar one made from pipe) will let you do the R&R (remove and replace) with the action open and the action bars supported inside the receiver, a far better approach IMHO than letting them wave in the breeze outside the gun where they can easily be bent. It also makes aligning the forearm to the barrel easier, so the forearm doesn't rub on the barrel when the action is cycled.
But it's your call...
lpl
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=723227
This tool (or a similar one made from pipe) will let you do the R&R (remove and replace) with the action open and the action bars supported inside the receiver, a far better approach IMHO than letting them wave in the breeze outside the gun where they can easily be bent. It also makes aligning the forearm to the barrel easier, so the forearm doesn't rub on the barrel when the action is cycled.
But it's your call...
lpl
Or just drop by your local shop with some coffee and donuts.....
oh ya, -1 for needle nose pliers
oh ya, -1 for needle nose pliers
okay thanks guys, havent had time to hit the hardware store. I will try the half dollar coin trick. man i love this forum.
I tried that with my 870 Wingmaster. It didn't work to well and it actually bent the metal tube enough that it wouldn't go back on the magazine.
How'd you manage to bend the tube? You did have the tips of the pliers in the two notches in the castle nut right? Also, hold onto to the forearm and not the two action bars when trying to twist. I've used pliers on two Expresses and one 870P with no ill affects.
I've collapsed the tube attempting to remove a nut that had been...agressively.... loctited in place. That action bar tube is really thin metal.
I still say use a coin, if its to tight to do by hand then lock the coin in a vise-grip and turn it right out!
I say needle nose pliers, if you have any common sense you can get it done with them. Thats All Ive ever used with zero problems.
I took an old pair of large needle nose pliers that had one tip broken off, and broke off the other one and then ground them both smooth and square. Put a few drops of Kroil on the threads and let them soak for 2 days, because I have seen some of these things be pretty tough. Pad the wood very well and put it in the vice with wood jaws just tight enough to hold it and so it cannot turn, put the needle nose pliers in the notches, and turn the pliers with a 10" or 12" Crescent wrench. The big wrench is so you don't have to use any large forces and can be gentle as you go.
I bet I have done 40 or 50 of them. I used to sell and work on guns (I do not claim to be a gunsmith, more like a mechanic). Never the smallest problem.
P.S. - The most misnamed thing in the world may be common sense !
I bet I have done 40 or 50 of them. I used to sell and work on guns (I do not claim to be a gunsmith, more like a mechanic). Never the smallest problem.
P.S. - The most misnamed thing in the world may be common sense !
If you've got the right size needle nose pliers.....and your lock ring is not to tight....and you don't mind a few scratches....and you can't build a key out of pipe...and there is no Gun shop that likes donuts... then go for it!
There is no harm in trying the needlenose pliers but if it's not coming off easy ( some times they are very loose) be careful torquing hard!
If it's cranked on there tight, heed the Virginian's advice about torquing with a crescent wrench....or get a better tool for the job.
Good luck.
There is no harm in trying the needlenose pliers but if it's not coming off easy ( some times they are very loose) be careful torquing hard!
If it's cranked on there tight, heed the Virginian's advice about torquing with a crescent wrench....or get a better tool for the job.
Good luck.
I had purchased a plastic ATI buttstock and forend recently for my Remington Express 12 gauge Turkey.
Buttstock was easy but also ran into tightness issues with the forend. ATI included a piece of flatstock metal (like a big key) they recommended using a large crescent wrench with. No deal.
I used a little penetrant spray on the nut and let it sit for an hour.
Then I put the key into by bench vise, forend off the gun and held vertically above the vise, and was able to turn it by hand.
I like the flat stock piece approach that Aeromarine mentioned. The piece supplied with the ATI stock had started to twist (was somewhat soft metal).
Buttstock was easy but also ran into tightness issues with the forend. ATI included a piece of flatstock metal (like a big key) they recommended using a large crescent wrench with. No deal.
I used a little penetrant spray on the nut and let it sit for an hour.
Then I put the key into by bench vise, forend off the gun and held vertically above the vise, and was able to turn it by hand.
I like the flat stock piece approach that Aeromarine mentioned. The piece supplied with the ATI stock had started to twist (was somewhat soft metal).
damn, i dont mind the scratches lol.
the half dollar coin didnt work for me. it's already scratched up, but no one can see it.
the half dollar coin didnt work for me. it's already scratched up, but no one can see it.
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