How to tell between laquer and polymer coated Wolf ammo?

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If the chamber dimensions are exactly the same.
If the ammo is exactly the same.
Care to guess the temps it takes to even get lacquer to come off the casing?
Anyone care to guess the reason AR's struggle with imported ammo? Steel case. Lacquer?
Why AK's eat this stuff up without any issues at all?
Bueller?
Bueller?
 
A gun smith evaluated the 'stuck case syndrome' with Mini 30s.

Guys who seldom cleaned their guns, and allowed lots of gunk to be deposited between the rigid steel shells and chambers later had the problem, as mentioned previously, when switching to soft, expanding brass.

The gun smith said that the issue was Not polymer versus lacquer.
Others have used blow torches to try to melt the lacquer and reportedly found it very difficult to melt the coating. That's everything that I read.
 
My theory is that the lacquer is just 'tackier' (they don't feel as slick as polymer, at least) or that it embeds some of the crud into the softer coating and just kind of hands on a hair longer.

I'm also of the opinion that steel-cased or lacquer coatings don't work as well in NATO guns as commie guns, purely because of the taper on the communist designs.

But I still have yet to witness lacquer actually coming off the rounds or, as some suggest, working as glue on its own.
 
Russia is communist? When did that happen?
WestHope has it right. I also believe the extractor on Western designed AR's is not near as beefy as Eastern designed AK's which contributes.
 
Seriously, THRers: there is ample evidence available on the net that dispels the old myths about lacquer-coated steel casings and the AR-15 platform. Recommend you read before repeating wives' tales as truth.

Posts 22, 24, and 28 explain one aspect of the extraction issues of (some) Russian steel ammo in the (some versions of the) AR-15 platform -- the one that berthed the 'melting lacquer' myth -- perfectly.
 
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