How to tighten a loose arbor?

[black_powder_Rob]

nice grouping next time you will have to try and back it up a little more to about 25 yards. just out of curiosity where was the point of aim in reference to target? I only ask bc i am curious if the repair changed its poi. Still nice grouping no matter how you look at it, well done.

 

[junkman_01]

Point of aim was point of impact.

 

[BCRider]

On my own brass framed 1851 the pin has a second hole that allows me to punch it out and unscrew the arbor. I gather the 1860's do not enjoy this little feature?

I'm not a fan of glue and guns either but if the pin requires drilling to remove that's close enough to permanent that I would not hesitate to use the thin CA glue option to fix a loose arbor.

For anyone that does go with it be aware that CA will only stick well and cure well if there is a real lack of oil in the threads. To that end you'd want to use repeated shots of a strong degreaseing solvent such as brake cleaner or automotive grease and wax paint prep worked into the thread and then blown clear with compressed air. do this until the solvent coming out is perfectly clean. Then blow it out well to totally dry it. I would then assemble the gun without the cylinder in place but with the barrel and arbor tightened normally. This will allow access to the arbor to frame joint to apply the CA glue.

If you buy your THIN FORMULA CA from a model hobby shop you will get a bottle that comes with a very fine point applicator. This will work well to apply it. Once applied wiggle the barrel a little to aid in working the glue in further.

For those that think this is sacrilage rest easy. The glue is easily broken down with a heat gun or light application of a propane torch. It breaks down at around 300F and the arbor could be easily screwed out with a hand inside an oven mit if the pin is drilled out first.

The only reason I don't follow my own advice and do this to my own 1851 that also has a loose thread on the arbor is because in addtion to the loose thread the slot for the barrel wedge is a peened to fit deal and that means that shooting it will repeatedly loosen the barrel lock. I'm hoping to soon find time to make a new arbor that will correct this. The new arbor will not only enjoy a custom fitted wedge but will also sport an custom cut interference fit thread that requires a bit of torque to screw it into the frame. The goal being that this firmer fit that puts the brass in that area under compression will be able to deal with the shooting impacts better.

 

[junkman_01]

Good write up.
I just examined my 2nd 1860 Army (Euroarms, stainless steel) and it doesn't have any pin securing the arbor.