How well do Ka-Bars hold an edge?

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The leather handled, 1095 steel will hold an edge longer than the tactical model in 440A stainless.

How long it holds an edge depends on hardness/heat treat, edge type/angle and what you intend to use it for.

If I had to pic between the two, I'd grab the high carbon version and leave the 440A version far behind. At 56-58Rc the 1095 should hold a decent edge but still be easy to sharpen. The stainless version at 55-57Rc is softer and probably will be a bit more likely to roll the edge and dull quicker.
 
Wow. Only one persons opinion and you've decided. Since you're listening to my opinion, may I suggest you buy two? One for each of us?:evil: If two of us test the edge retention, we'll surely get a better idea of how good these knives are:p.

Congrats on the knife and the new tires. I just put some fresh rubber on my car. Amazing difference between the new ones and the bald, Teflon donuts that used to be tires that were on it.

Chris
 
For good knives, besides initial sharpness and hardness, ability to be easily resharpened is a valued quality.
Getting new tires for your truck is a great instant analogy -you don't expect tires to last forever so you shouldn't expect the initial edge of the knife to last forever either.

I'd choose properly heat-treated 1095 any day over stainless.
 
D2 holds an edge longer than 1095 and is more stainless and perhaps a touch tougher. It is also much slower to resharpen...

But both are a full head better than 440a, unless you like to leave your knife wet and dirty alot...

J
 
1095 for me too.. Unless this knife will be used in water alot there is no need of ss.

If the 1095 will be used wet alot there is leather treatments. 1095 likes something rare, called oil..
 
1095 is much better than 440A, but D2 better than 1095.

OTOH Ka-Bar makes much better knives than the "USMC" pattern and you've be better off with one of those.
 
Put me down as another 1095 fan between the two choices, and I'll agree with HSO: There are better designed knives out there, though I do appreciate the historic utility of a Ka-Bar fighting knife. I wouldn't hesitste to carry a USMC knife.
 
Not to hijack, but since the OPs seems to have made up his mind. can anyone tell me the difference in steels btw my Ka bar little finn which is aus6 I think(and seems to stay really sharp) and my Kabar marine hunter which is DI 1.4something (which I havent used yet)?
 
I agree that D-2 is the way to go.
My belief is that D-2, a WWI era die steel is the best that you can get in a knife blade.
For edge- holding ability, it is comparable to 154-CM and the chrome content gives it a high degree of rust resistance.
Zeke
 
1095 is a carbon non-stainless steel that has been a staple of the knife industry for decades. It holds a good edge, is relatively easy to sharpen, and has good strength. Its downside is that it is prone to rust. It won't rust immediately, but if left uncared for it will develop rust. Proper cleaning and a light coat of oil has taken care of several of my knives for many years.

D2 is also a high carbon steel, but it is also relatively high in chromium content which makes it less prone to rust than 1095. It can still rust but is better than 1095 for rust resistance while not being as good as a true stainless such as the 440 family or many of the newer stainless steels such as ATS-34, 154CM, or S30V. D2 holds an edge VERY well compared to most steels and is flexible and strong. It's been my experience that D2 is still fairly easy to sharpen, in my opinion D2 is one of the finest knife steels available.

440A has a relatively high chromium content which makes it highly resistant to rust. Even "stainless" steels can rust, but those classified as stainless are significantly less prone to rust than non-stainless so they're more suited to very wet or saltwater areas. The 440 family is one of the more rust resistant but this also makes them less likely to hold an edge and more difficult to sharpen. 440, AUS8, 400 stainless steels are highly rust resistant but I've found they don't hold an edge nearly as well as 1095 or D2 and they're a bear to sharpen.

Hope this helps.
 
Just be aware that D2 steel tends to be a bit brittle if they are hardened too much. Then again 1095 can be the same way with bad heat treatments. Either is a superior blade by far than the 440A. If they are going to do stainless steel, I would want something the minimum of 154CM or better yet S30V.

If you are in wet, swampy areas go with the D2 steel blade for corrosion protection. If in more arid conditions you be fine with the 1095 steel.
 
ANY steel will be brittle if hardened too much!
Actually, it is the TEMPERING process that determines the final hardness of a particular steel.
 
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