How well would this work...

[GLOOB]

The main problem with this idea is 222 REM brass is neither cheap nor plentiful.

I wouldn't even bother, unless it could be done with cheap brass. And then, I still wouldn't do it unless I could buy or make swaging dies to get the brass into the proper shape.

Lopping off the neck of the case to make a tapered, flat point, crooked flying bullet sounds like a complete waste of expensive cases.

 

[Lost Sheep]

Take a fired 222 rem case with used primer still in fill it with lead, cut it off at the neck. Then seat it in a 375 H&H case as the projectile. This is not my idea and has been done but I am curious about what you reloading gurus think about it in terms of bearing surface, possible velocity, pressure, and how would it be on the rifling. Also how heavy would that be and approx ft. Lbs energy. ;-)

It could be done. As noted before, probably would not stabilize well, so accuracy would be dismal.

I would not do it without a full ballistics lab to evaluate the ballistic dynamics.

We use published recipes because they have been vetted by ballistics labs where technicians, behind protective barriers, are willing to destroy test barrels occasionally in search of the answers to the question the dvdcrr posed.

It is a question not worthy of ridicule. That no ballistics lab has done it (to my knowledge) suggests that it is also a question not particularly worthy of lab time or publication, either.

Dvdcrr, you said it has been done. Do you know what the results were? Or what possessed the doer to do it?

Lost Sheep

 

[gamestalker]

The only thing I can think of that is even remotely close to what you are describing is using 22 rim fire brass as jackets. That process as I understand it, is still fairly popular among those who make their own jacketed projectiles. But the brass on a 222 is much thicker than 22 rim fire cartridge brass, so the issue of pressure is far more relevant. Not to mention all the other pressure inappropiate factors it presents.

I'm sure some of the other older folks here remember that back in the 1970's stores that sold ammunition would buy, and, or, give store credit for 22 RF brass. I don't remember what they paid for it, but it was a pretty sweet deal for my friends and I when we needed money for ammunition. But by the same token, it became increasingly more difficult to find 22 RF brass on the ground. I think it was because America couldn't mine enough copper, fast enough, to supply the military and us civilians with ammunition.

GS

 

[kingmt]

Being more of a hand loader then reloader myself I'm very interested to know how they shoot. I also wonder how they decided a safe place to start this load or if they just got lucky they didn't shoot their eye out.

 

[dvdcrr]

All I know for sure is the fellow did this and fired ok and no damage. I don't know what charge or accuracy. The idea of swaging the case opens up some ideas. I would need to learn more about it.

 

[FROGO207]

I was going to point you to Reloader Fred's post myself when I first saw your post. There are some that are new to reloading that are "overly cautious" to say the least. BUT before you try anything, a LOT of investigation is in order IMHO. First thing is you have to anneal the brass to make it as soft as possible and easier to work with. The one who said you would need forming dies to make the case walls parallel was on the correct path also. My thoughts are if you wanted to do it, with enough experimentation it probably could be accomplished. That said if you have a buttload of 222 brass the best thing would be sell the brass, then get a bullet mold and gas checks and roll your own that way.
I am betting it will be lots cheaper both in time and resources, unless you were going for it commercially------then set up with custom dies to make bullets with the traditional cup and core method as that is the way to make a profit IMHO. The best accuracy with using a lead core is to swage the core under extreme pressure to avoid air pockets that you get with casting. Additionally with the custom dies you could design a correctly shaped nose and/or boat tail for better ballistics and stability.

 

[Rory McCanuck]

Pretty much how Speer got started. Rather than melting, though, just use pressure (swaging). Corbin makes presses specifically for this, as does CH4D. They also make the dies.
Takes a bit of an investment to get started, but many folks have had some very good results.

 

[hueyville]

I have been making .224 and .242 bullets from spent brass for decades. I have also done some slap STOOPID things at the reloading bench. The trick is realizing your stupidity and taking appropriate steps to safeguard yourself. Shot out, or rusty, or broken stock rifles in the less than a 100 dollar range have a purpose. So does a 4' x 8' piece of 1/4" lean and a long string. I have a ransom rest for pistols and several cobbled up systems for securing rifles. That said, out of hundreds of tests, none of my sacrificial rifles have blown up yet except a Remington 742 that was busted on purpose as a service to society. So if you don't mind busting things, there is fun to be had.

That said, don't go off the reservation with your prized grandfathers collectible heirloom. I would find a forming die to get the case a consistent diameter, crimp the neck like making your own rat shot, cut the rim off and pour my lead in from the base. In fact, you can then cut from rear till get desired bullet weight then use that first one to cut subsequent cases from. Now would this be a useable bullet for the ages? Probably not. But if you have tools, time, PBL and a sacrificial rifle it could be an interesting experiment. Has me thinking about a piece of crap Martin in 444 that is so ugly I have never figured out a use for it. It is as screwed up as a rifle can be and still fire. Remember that with stupid ideas come some attempt at safety. Like that show "rocket city redness" where their motto is "safety 3rd".

 

[3006mv]

do a search for bullet swaging or cast w/ gas check for that caliber.

 

[blarby]

Since you are re-inventing the wheel instead of swaging bullets.........

Ok, if "I" were gonna do this :

1. Find a way to size the case "right". Using a 375 H+H expander ball and lube- the full length of the case sounds like a decent start to me. ( since you are gonna snip the tip, and make it the right length for a projectile anyway) This will give you a tube- not a wonky cylindrical pyramid. Well, a heck of a lot more of a tube than you started with. IF that doesn't do it- Find a decent cheap drill bit thats the right diameter, and go real slow after dulling the cutting edges.

2. Find something you can slip the case into, that will allow you to fill the brass over the top with hot lead, and remove it once cooled- like a bullet mould. You want at least 1/4".

You could probably use heat shield tape, but it would be labor intensive. Given what we're looking at though....... While we're on heat- bake that case real good, and make sure its soft.

3. Use that top head of lead you have, and a file, and make something more aerodynamic than a flat SWC which you'd get from a flat case top.

You could trim the case shorter, and add more "top" to make a pointy bullet, if you wanted.

I agree with sheep- Its doable, and men have done far better with much less. Experimentation is the core of our passion.

Unless its something Rediculous like "I wanna make 6 powder salad, what would you use" or " whats the best way to make mercury tipped bullet proof vest penetrating exploding hollowpoints" I don't see the point of ridicule.

I say do it- and keep us posted.

The way things are going, we're going to be recycling bullet jackets soon, and people are going to be forming copper pipe from the downstairs bathroom no one uses into bullet jackets using self-drilled swaging dies and a hammer.

ReloaderFred is gonna be answering a lot of questions- lets put it that way.

 

[homatok]

IF I were going to try something of this nature, for the 375 H&H I would be looking at using a 380 pistol case.