I have a Deer Hunter that I used to load up for my son to hunt with.
I found that a sabot with a 240 grain bullet would consistently put the first shot from a cold clean barrel into the middle of a paper plate at a greater distance than a patched round ball.
The preferred powder charge was 90 grains of Pyrodex P.
There's lots of different 240 grain - 250 grain bullets with a sabot available, and some may work better than others in your gun.
But the first shot out of a cold clean barrel is the most important.
So when working up a hunting load, try to make sure that the first shot will hit where you need it to.
Sometimes the first shot with a patched round ball won't hit the intended point of aim and will fly off target depending on the barrel temperature and powder charge.
If you can control for that then by all means load a patched round ball.
Some examples of a 240 grain bullet and sabot are below which aren't the exact one that I used but #3 is close.
1.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1002274911
2.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1015808369?pid=444349
3.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1002234214
One review posted: "Bought these to use in my Traditions DeerHunter Flintlock. Shot a buck at 85 yards and couldnt be happier! I do believe that if I would have been using round balls I would not have had such a good blood trail and wouldn't have recovered the deer. I would recommend these sabots to anybody."
Other than that I always loaded it up for plinking with .490 patched round balls, a .015 patch rubbed with Bore Butter, and various amounts of Pyrodex P starting at around 60 grains.
A long time ago I wrote some tips for loading muzzle loaders that have a drum like the Deer Hunter does.
There's short and long versions.
Only a few of the loading tips really matter.
One is to slap the side of gun with the drum pointed downwards after loading the powder and before ramming the ball, to help the powder flow into the drum.
Another is about placing the hammer on 1/2 cock before ramming the ball so that the whoosh of the air escaping out of the nipple hole will help the powder flow into the flash channel to help ignition.
The last is a recommendation to use 3F powder, Pyrodex P if using a substitute powder, so that the smaller granulation will more easily flow into the flash channel to promote more certain ignition.
1.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/replacement-nipple-trouble.415718/#post-5191328
2.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/muzzleloading-101.473761/#post-5893127
3.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/misfires.235211/#post-2865123
Something that I failed to mention in these threads is that if you dry ball by forgetting to load the powder charge before ramming the ball, to remove the nipple or clean out screw and then put some powder into the flash channel to be able to fire out the ball.
It's bound to happen eventually, so try to have a nipple wrench or screwdriver handy in case it happens.
Keep the threads of the clean out screw clean and lubed, to make sure that it doesn't rust in place because it's helpful for cleaning out the drum after shooting it for reliable ignition.
Don't over tighten the clean out screw.