Hygrometer Recommendation Experiences with Extech 445713

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guggep

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Hi All,

I have been worried about moisture levels in my RF6528 and using a golden rod is not an option because it has no holes. Right now I have two of the smaller EVA 333 and they are only lasting about 2 weeks.

I would like to get a Hygrometer. I am warry of those for cigar humidors so I was thinking of getting something like an Extech 445713. It seems to have good accuracy levels and good reviews.

Do any of you have experience with the Extechs or similar. Please note that this is an under $50 product so I understand that it is not as good as the $250 but I hope spending that much $$$ is not really necessary.

Please share experiences
Thanks
 
I use a $10 cheapie I purchased at a big box hardware store. It displays the current temperature/humidity, as well as the 24 hour hour high/low.

Unless you're doing something that has to be very exact, you just need to know the ball park.

Any safe that uses a cast fill will have higher moisture levels when new. As time goes on, this will drop. The curing process goes on for years and years.
 
First.
The $15-$30 Cigar Hygrometer's are very accurate, if you take the time to calibrate them when you buy them.
Easy instructions come with them.

They have to be accurate, or people would not buy them to protect $10,000+ cigar humidor contents.

Second.
'No hole in the safe' does not mean there can't be a hole in the safe if you have an electric drill.
It ain't that hard of stuff.

Third.
Unless you are sticky and clammy feeling all summer, your windows steam over so you can't see out in the winter, and you have black mold growing on the walls?

Your humidity level in your home is probably just fine.

Myself?
Drill the safe, install a Golden Rod, and Fuhgeddaboudit.

rc
 
Thanks a1abdj - It looks like I will need to keep a close eye on it for a couple of years. I like the looks of the Extech so will probably get that.
 
Rcmodel - I would expect that the unit would be more difficult to drill than most based on its construction. I can by the hygrometer and quite a few more EVA's (if needed) for the number of bits I would ruin drilling it.
 
I would expect that the unit would be more difficult to drill than most based on its construction.
Maybe, maybe not.

You might be surprised what a good drill bit & some cooling oil will do!!

But then, I don't know what an RF6528 is.
And it's getting way too late to Google it.

Still, I would be surprised if any modern gun safe doesn't have a way to wire it for lights, or a Golden Rod.

rc
 
You may want to give this thread a read.

RC points out in that thread:
According to the NRA:
50% humidity at 70 degrees is considered ideal "Arms Museum" storage conditions.

Lacking an electrical access I would think about drilling one. However, first I would likely pop about ten bucks for a cheap analog style hygrometer and get an idea of what you have. You are really only concerned with keeping the RH below around 50% for normal storage. You do not want it too dry in there either as wood stocks or grips won't like that.

Here in NE Ohio I just keep several desiccant packs in there with a few color tabs to see what is going on. Every few months I bake them out. Has worked fine for me.

Ron
 
The more the safe is open, the faster the initial moisture issues will decrease. If you spend a lot of time around the safe, leave it open as much as possible.

You could drill and electrical access hole. It would not be as easy as a typical gun safe, but not impossible.
 
A couple things, out of curiosity, I bought three different hygrometers in the $5 - $15 buck range. I sat them side by side and watched them over a couple months, they are all over the place, 5% - 15% difference. I plan on buying a high quality Hygrometer soon.

Recommend you buy bulk desiccant packs and throw a bunch in with your Eva Drys.

A ran across a thread on a forum where a safe company drilled a RF6528 for a customer, they said it took an hour and they ruined a load of big dollar bits. The fact that the RF is not X6 rated does not mean you are going to be able to compromise the side easily as it is a real safe. It would make no sense for AMSEC to have a TL-30 that could easily be breached via the side.
 
A ran across a thread on a forum where a safe company drilled a RF6528 for a customer, they said it took an hour and they ruined a load of big dollar bits.

There are a lot of "safe companies" that like to pretend that they're really safe companies.

I could drill an electrical hole using one of my fancy $10 bits in about 2 minutes. I put holes in them all of the time for alarm companies.
 
Hi All,

I purchased the Extech. It was $36 with free shipping online. It is easy to use and started providing results immediately. After 24 hours the safe interior is reading 42% - 47% min/max with an accuracy of +- 4%.
 
To reduce moisture in your safe, try this:

(1) Get a large quantity of silica gel for cheap. I went to a craft store and got a six pound box of silica gel sold as flower drying crystals for less than $20.

(2) Put the crystals in a pie tin, so there is a lot of exposed surface area, and place the pie tin in your safe.

(3) Use a wide tape to cover the gap between the door and frame of your safe. Use a tape that is cheap, will not leave a residue, and will not remove paint. For example, the wide blue masking tape used by painters.

The taping idea is especially useful if it's the off season or you're not going into your safe that often. Because no outside air is getting in, the desiccant stays dry. No monthly recharging and no rust. This might be a good alternative to drilling holes in your safe for aftermarket heaters that make me nervous (because of fire potential).
 
To reduce moisture in your safe, try this:

(1) Get a large quantity of silica gel for cheap. I went to a craft store and got a six pound box of silica gel sold as flower drying crystals for less than $20.

(2) Put the crystals in a pie tin, so there is a lot of exposed surface area, and place the pie tin in your safe.

(3) Use a wide tape to cover the gap between the door and frame of your safe. Use a tape that is cheap, will not leave a residue, and will not remove paint. For example, the wide blue masking tape used by painters.

The taping idea is especially useful if it's the off season or you're not going into your safe that often. Because no outside air is getting in, the desiccant stays dry. No monthly recharging and no rust. This might be a good alternative to drilling holes in your safe for aftermarket heaters that make me nervous (because of fire potential).
If I were to buy bulk silica gel crystals as suggested I would just load them in a cookie tin and punch holes in the top. I currently use several bags of silica gel and once every month or two bake them out in the oven at 250 Deg. F. for a few hours. I would do the same with a cookie tin. The only advantage to this method is if I bump the pie plate I don't dump the silica crystals all over the interior of the safe or RSC.

Ron
 
Guggep, I am using a Dry-Packs 750 Gram Silica Gel Canister in a similar size safe to your AMSEC RF with no issues. Amazon among others sell these, rated for 55 cu ft as I recall.
 
Thanks guys.

I am currently using 2 of the smaller EVA units and am running at 45% - 48%.

About once every 2 weeks or so I recharge 1 of the units.

FYI
 
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