I bought an Eddystone

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Visionz45

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I just picked up an Eddystone, it SN is 18098X and has a barrel marked 12-17. All the parts except the barrel band have E marking. The stock has an E on the tip in front of the barrel band and a K beside the receiver. Is this gun safe to shoot? Second, what would you consider a fair price?
 
My camera isn't all that good so....Ill give more specifics if you need them. Thanks!
 

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I jacked one of my "national match" rounds in. A 175 SMK and saw land marks on the bullet so I guess ill measure and re-seat the bullets. The bore is mint, the crown has a few minor pits, the chamber looks real clean. Headspace though, Ill have to have that checked.
 
couple more
 

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That gun is unsafe and will either blow up or go full-auto and kill your entire family.

I'll take it off your hands for fifty bucks, cuz I need a new boat anchor...

:rolleyes:
 
Check it for headspace to see where you stand on the chamber condition, then test it out.
The actions are quite massive and are often used for large caliber conversions, as you probably know.
I cut my teeth on a sporterized Remington Enfield in '06 caliber, originally made in the Ilion, NY plant, about 7 miles from where I used to live.

That's a nice rifle, and you should have fun with it.




NCsmitty
 
That gun is unsafe and will either blow up or go full-auto and kill your entire family.

I'll take it off your hands for fifty bucks, cuz I need a new boat anchor...

You've got quite the twitch if it makes your bolt gun go full auto :D
 
"...no other manufacture name..." Eddystone was a Remington owned plant.
"...a 147 FMJ..." Those were 7.62NATO bullets. Not a big deal though. Use 150 grain data. IMR4064 for sure though. Try some 168 grain SMK's with IMR4064. 165 grain hunting bullets with 4064. The .30-06 loves 'em both. Work up the load though.
 
Ive actually have some 168 SMK's and a lot of 4064 and 4320. 4320 low end loads were the most accurate(147 and 150's) lower pressure loads in my '06's.
 
It sounds to me like you found the "Fair Price" a fair price for any item is what the buyer and seller will agree on. Pretty simple.
Now I'd say an average price for a non sporterized model should be in the $250 -$300 range. sporterized even less. Possibly as low as $100 depending on the condition of the barrel and chamber. I bought one back in January for $125 at a local pawn shop. ended up returning it because quite a few of the parts were actually missing and my gunsmith told me to return it because it wasn't safe to shoot. It looked really good though. ONce I told the pawn shop aboput the missing parts they sold it to a shop down the street fro $50 and they tore it down for parts.
Seems you did well. Find some Lake City surplus ammo and you should be good to go.
 
I have one with a not-so-good bore that scatters 150g, but it's exceptional with 165g. I load them light with 42.6g of H4895. Use the old string on the trigger and sandbag procedure to see if she blows,...but I doubt it. Mine is a $500 CMP model.
 
I got a couple of 1917s from the CMP a while back. One was a "Salvage" grade and the other was a painted rack grade. They both headspaced fine and after using a little paint stripper the rack grade looks very nice.

Mine don't especially like 150s, but they both shoot 2.5 MOA with 168 or 180 gr jacketed bullets and Varget or 4064. I guess the longer bearing surface helps. The bores on mine are really rough, and thus hard to keep clean, but it doesn't seem to hurt the accuracy that much. One of them has pitting on one side of the crown, and it still shoots better than my service grade Garands.

I bought a new Criterion barrel from CMP because I wanted to shoot cast bullets. I still haven't got around to installing it because the original barrels are just stupid tight (Eddystones are known for this). I may just save the barrel and wait for a different rifle.

CMP has an excellent book on the US model of 1917 if you are interested. Look for the green book, I think it was written by C.S. Ferris. Stratton also has an 1914/1917 book, but it is geared more towards the Brit versions.
 
Well the 147's shot awful. I pulled the flat base 150 FMJ's out of that Austrian M1(just in case they were corrosive) and put that head of 46.7 gr of IMR 4064 and they drove tacks, 8 Rounds in 2". I was really surprised. I tried to load to 2700fps just for fun though they ended up around 2628fps. I bet they tighten up group wise with a bit more powder.
 
Glad that you're having good luck with the 150gr FMJ. Hodgdon lists 47gr of IMR4064 as the starting load, and 51gr as the maximum for a 150gr Nosler BT bullet.
47.5gr of IMR4064 should give you around 2700+ and maybe better groups, but you need to remember that pulled open base FMJ are not "match" type bullets and you'll reach a point where they just will not consistently improve the group size.
Have fun and good shooting.



NCsmitty
 
ARGGGGGGG!!!! these M1917 threads kill me! :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

"1974, a 14 year old boy, a primo M1917, a copy of William's Converting Military Rifles, an old bench mounted grinder, and Ol Man Murphy watching on in horror as the receiver's ears glowed red under the grinding wheel"
 
I assume you have not scoped that rifle. If not, 2" groups at 100yds is great! I had a scope on my sporterized M1917 by Remington, and it shot 1/2" 3 shot groups at 100yds. Very accurate rifle, to say the least. Shoots better groups than my Weatherby Vanguard .300 Win Mag, and it is a newer modern style rifle. I worked up a load using Hodgdon's H4350, Speer 165Gr BTSPs and CCI primers in Winchester brass, and the best charge weight I found for my rifle is 58.5Gr. I worked the load from minimum and watched for signs of pressure to be safe, and I recommend you do the same. I took mine to a gunsmith before shooting it, just to be sure as others have suggested. He said it was a little on the loose side. He said not to load it with real hot loads, so I stay away from max loads with it. I didn't need to go to max anyway before the rifle told me when to stop well short of max. The groups were excellent, even with me pulling the trigger.

I wish mine was not sporterized and in original condition as your is. Great rifle. It should give you years of happy shooting.

BTW, the Green book by C. L. Ferris is a good one if you like history in great detail. It has lots of facts in it. Not a pleasure book by any means, but worth the read at any rate! I do recommend it to any M1917 owner. It will tell you what to call your rifle too. It isn't an Enfield, although it is based on the Enfield design.

Good luck and have fun with your rifle. I sure know I am with mine!

Mike
 
I picked up one in original condition that was simply excellent, only a tiny bit of blueing was beginning to wear on the rear sight wings other than that it was Excellent-mint condition. I snagged it here locally for $500 and thought that was a good deal. It is by far my favorite bolt gun ever made, and I have about 20 different high quality milsurp bolt guns.

The M1917 IMHO is the epitome of the wartime bolt actions, and would have served the AEF in WW1 very well as their main issue rifle.
 
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