bachekermooni
Member
Got the 300 WSM case stuck in the brand new Forester die. Now what do I do?
Yes. I cleaned and lubed the die and the case - as I always do.
Yes. I cleaned and lubed the die and the case - as I always do.
I Finally Did It ... Now what?
- Thread starter bachekermooni
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NeuseRvrRat
Member
buy a stuck case remover. if forster is like most other die manufacturers, you can send it back to them and they'll fix it.
plodder
Member
Carefully drill to just under case OD size, then make a cape chisel out of a small diameter drift punch & peel the remaining case wall. There's a guy who lives in my house who has had to do the same several times
bachekermooni
Member
does the stuck case remover get around the primer remover pin?
NeuseRvrRat
Member
can't you just screw the decap pin out the top?
bachekermooni
Member
Nope :-( I tried. I also tried to get the center screw to screw out of the expander ball/decapping pin assembly. No chance. The expander ball has to come through the neck which is being squeezes by the die.
gamestalker
member
From the sound of it, I think it would be best to send it to Forester, so as to avoid damaging the die.
Are you rather new to reloading? If so, to avoid further problems sticking cases, be sure to apply and even light film of "Case Lube" on the inside and outside of the case necks, and on the exterior of the case bodies. Don't apply any to the shoulders, and don't use too much, or you'll end up with "lube dents" as well.
And not to make you feel stupid, as we've all made our mistakes during the learning curve, but you do know that you have to lube every case, lubing the die is not how it's done.
I have never stuck a case, but I have lube dented a good number of them when I first started out several decades ago. You''ll get the hang of things!
GS
Are you rather new to reloading? If so, to avoid further problems sticking cases, be sure to apply and even light film of "Case Lube" on the inside and outside of the case necks, and on the exterior of the case bodies. Don't apply any to the shoulders, and don't use too much, or you'll end up with "lube dents" as well.
And not to make you feel stupid, as we've all made our mistakes during the learning curve, but you do know that you have to lube every case, lubing the die is not how it's done.
I have never stuck a case, but I have lube dented a good number of them when I first started out several decades ago. You''ll get the hang of things!
GS
NeuseRvrRat
Member
you don't have to get the decap/expander rod all the way out. you just need to get it up far enough to get the decap pin out of the flash hole so you can drill a hole in the primer pocket.
Jcinnb
Member
I got my first case stuck about a month ago. Bought a RCBS "kit". Which I could have put together myself, if our Lowes was worth a crap.
Anyway I did my third one this morning. Took about five minutes. I am a total jack leg, but even my limited skill set let me get this tight. Get a kit, read directions and go to it. Very, very doable. Oh, I added a two foot black iron pipe to increase leverage when tapping and screwing in the nut. It is really easy!
Anyway I did my third one this morning. Took about five minutes. I am a total jack leg, but even my limited skill set let me get this tight. Get a kit, read directions and go to it. Very, very doable. Oh, I added a two foot black iron pipe to increase leverage when tapping and screwing in the nut. It is really easy!
bachekermooni
Member
To respond to various posts:
1. I am not new to reloading. I have reloaded over 1000 rounds in .223, .243, and .308. I do lube my cases and when being used for "THE FIRST TIME", you need a bit of lube inside the die especially when the manufacturer wants you to clean the inside of the die.
2. The Forster sizing die has the expansion ball very high near the top of the die so at its highest, the decapping pin is still flush with the bottom of the case.
3. when starting out, I put this case thru the die once. Wiped it. Put it in the L.E.Wilson case gauge and its base was still sticking out. So I re-lubed it, turned the die in just a tad, pushed the case in and ...
This is the first time I am using Forster dies. I bought it because of their incredible seater and reputation for minimal run-out.
I guess I will call them tomorrow.
1. I am not new to reloading. I have reloaded over 1000 rounds in .223, .243, and .308. I do lube my cases and when being used for "THE FIRST TIME", you need a bit of lube inside the die especially when the manufacturer wants you to clean the inside of the die.
2. The Forster sizing die has the expansion ball very high near the top of the die so at its highest, the decapping pin is still flush with the bottom of the case.
3. when starting out, I put this case thru the die once. Wiped it. Put it in the L.E.Wilson case gauge and its base was still sticking out. So I re-lubed it, turned the die in just a tad, pushed the case in and ...
This is the first time I am using Forster dies. I bought it because of their incredible seater and reputation for minimal run-out.
I guess I will call them tomorrow.
witchhunter
Member
That decapping pin looks like it is adjusted way too long. It just has to push the primer out of the pocket. If you adjust it a little shorter it won't kick the primer out so fast that it bounces off the press and unto the floor. Good luck, we all have been there.
bachekermooni
Member
Called Forster. They offered to remove the case for $9. But it takes two weeks. Then he mentioned the video on their web site that shows how to use their tool to do it.
Here it is on Youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J73to_462xI#t=18
So off to the local reloading shop or hardware store I go.
Thanks for all your help and advise.
Here it is on Youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J73to_462xI#t=18
So off to the local reloading shop or hardware store I go.
Thanks for all your help and advise.
bachekermooni
Member
Just picked up the Forster puller. Will report tonight on the results.
bachekermooni
Member
The puller worked like a charm. Pulled the expander right thru the neck. Then used a hammer and rod to knock out the case. No drill, no tap, no screw. The video was a great help.
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