I just mounted a flashlight on a rifle...

[Dr.Rob]

Not permanently, I want to see if the QD mount holds up to the rigors of shooting a match.

At close range it lines up with the bore pretty well. I am getting some reflection from my front sight, but that is about as 'out of the way' as I can mount a light. (I don't want to use the rail section on the scope.)

http://www.amazon.com/Ade-Advanced-45-Degree-Flashlight-Release/dp/B00O62EDMO

This set up with a Command Arms short rail section will fit my Colt 6920 as well. http://www.thecountryshed.com/ar_acc_picatinny_mounts.htm doesn't seem like the flashlight needs to be locked tight like a scope, so a poly rail might work and weigh less.



My question is:

For those of you (non-Leo and military shoot-house types) that mount a light, how do you train with it?

 

[Zerodefect]

I flash a pulse to see for just a moment. Then move to the place I flashed, if it was clear.

Generally I'm using a pistol and a loose light to search. My rifle and it's light is setup for real threats, or an outside threat. Fighting, Not searching or clearing. Searching by pointing a gun around is a bad idea.

There is a ton to learn. Everybody's eyes and body are different. A dark house illustrates that more than any other test. Just have to do it. Carbine 1-3 is pure cake compared to a 2 day night class. And dark house training is NOT fun like normal training is.

I want to try this next year:
http://www.costaludus.com/index.php?route=training/view&path=59_83
But I want to take carbine or pistol 1-3 all over again first so I'm not rusty.

Get as much carbine training as you can before plunking down that kind of $$$, even if it means retaking the basics twice because some of these classes won't accept "local yocal" classes as a prereq. Your local classes, then the more expensive traveling classes, then the traveling dark house classes.

Dark houses are the hardest training. If you skip the regular classes, you'll be so lost trying to learn, that you won't get everything you need out of the dark house. Heck, running the shoot houses during the day with proper technique is almost impossible. You have to master all the basics before you can concentrate on tactics.

You'll obviously need to move the light somewhere your support hand can turn it on/off without budging.

Everything I thought I knew about shooting in the night was a failure. Everything I learned about night on the forums was entirely wrong.
It was mind wrecking and a complete ego kick in the teeth.
And that was at far simpler schools than the one listed above.

Like night sights for instance, completely 100% useless. Plain black sights or F/O sights that went plain black at night worked far better for me.

 

[Trent]

Oh, Rob, no.. no.. now you've joined the "dark side."

Next thing you know you'll be posting up something like this;

 

[Dr.Rob]

Nah, I'm not convinced yet. I just wanted to try it out.

Seriously, what are you all doing to train and practice with a light?

 

[rcmodel]

I mounted mine on the bayonet lug under the barrel.



So no distractions with the light blinding you bouncing off the sight.
And no confusing front sight shadows dancing on the targets in front of you.

I'd move it down under the barrel & sight line on the hand-guard somehow.

rc

 

[Dr.Rob]

No bayonet lug on my green rifle.

 

[Inebriated]

My take on the light is that it's to ID a target, not to perfectly illuminate it.

Meaning, if I see a dark silhouette in the kitchen or behind the shed, I want to know who it is. There's always enough ambient light in and around my house to see a person, and to make effective shots, but there isn't always enough light to ID. And I still want capability when there is no light whatsoever (power outages, for instance).

So the way I train with a light is to do as quick a flash as possible that allows me to gather information, and then move. Flash, move. That applies to handgun or rifle, indoors or out, searching or identifying.

Also, as for a light, I went with an Inforce WML on an AR at 12:00, and a Surefire G2X Tactical in an HSP Thorntail SBR mount on an AK. Also have a G2XT next to the Glock. Both are momentary-only, and bright enough with enough spill to handle anything in or around my property. I don't like clicky switches for weapon lights, I want exact control over when the light is on.

(sorry for the cell phone pic, click to make it larger)

 

[USAF_Vet]

I have something like this mounted to the barrel of my AR, resting the tail push button just in front of the hand guard.

A flash to verify, then move to clear, or fire as needed.

 

[jmorris]

I generally have a buddy shine the spotlight if I am shooting. We generally have the best success by shining it into the air and bringing it down just far enough to engage the animals, not directly at them, except for frogs, they seem to stay put better in the light.

I have an at home .22 "critter getter" that has a mounted light with a remote pad to turn it on and off. Not a lot of training needed just touch the pad when you want light.

 

[benEzra]

I have a short segment of poly rail from CAA on my front sight tower (light is on the left side in a GG&G ring); works well and puts the tailcap switch in an ideal position, and very inexpensive.