I might be done with handloading... LOL

[ArchAngelCD]

You can probably duplicate the Federal load to some extent. Like said, you now have a lot if the j formation you need.

Federal case
Federal LRP
150gr Nosler Partition
Use the OAL of the factory ammo

Since Federal is part of ATK they might be using Alliant powders but not necessarily. Speer is more likely to be using all in-house components. I would take one if the factory loads apart and at least check the powder weight and see if it's extruded or spherical powder. I know it's almost impossible to ID powder from looks but it can't hurt to look. You can even put the factory round back together not to waste a round.

 

[jmr40]

For the guy hunting that only shoots a few rounds each year re-loading doesn't make sense. But if you're going to shoot hundreds or thousands of rounds each year the cost savings are worth it. The better premium factory loads available today are usually every bit as accurate as a hand loader can make, but are much more expensive.

I've been handloading some of the new Hornady ELD-X bullets lately and have been very impressed with the performance. They are available in factory loads at $32-$38 per box depending on caliber which ain't really bad. A lot of the premium stuff is $40-$60 per box. But I can hand load them to the same speed and accuracy for $12-$15 per box. I've bought one box in each caliber I'm using (6.5 creed and 308). It is still too early to tell, but if the factory loads prove to be even a tiny bit more accurate than my hand loads I may well practice with the hand loads and buy off the shelf to hunt. If my hand loads prove more accurate I'll go that way. So far I can't detect enough difference to matter, but I'll shoot a lot more before I decide.

 

[Blue68f100]

I've been at this for over 40 yrs and I have always been able to beat factory ammo. May take a many rounds to narrow the load down, but that's part of the fun of hand loading.

Were your test on new brass or once fired? This can make a huge difference, shoulder pushed back too far, bolt out of square, bullet jump ... just to name a few.

 

[Catpop]

I tried this for my 7x57 but unfortunately 140 grain Core-Lokt's (what that gun seems to prefer) are no longer available and the 150's were almost awful. That gun, I believe, is going to find a new home.

I had a suspicion this .280 would shoot. I saw some promise from a few of my initial loads, and even my batch of handloads today (IMR 4350 and Hornady Interlocks) were no worse than 1.25" at 100 and 2" at 200. I just don't think I have the experience to get the kinds of groups some of you are getting with the handloads. I mean, I can get close to factory ammo (better than some) but can't really improve on the best factory loads I've found for any of my three main rifles.

Geez, I was always lead to believe 7x57 was one of the most accurate, efficient and well designed cartries of all times. But I admit I never owned one.

 

[cfullgraf]

5 rounds of factory 280 Rem may not give you an accurate picture of the load's accuracy.

Try taking 20 rounds of factory ammo and 20 rounds of your hand loads. Shoot four ten round groups with 4 minutes between shots, clean the bore after 20 shots, then see which load is more accurate.

Yes, five shots on two separate targets really does not give an accurate representation of the accuracy of a load/rifle combination. The sample size is too small.

I have a couple rifles that would shoot a 3 or 5 shot group great one day and then not hit the broad side of the barn the next, all with the same ammunition. It took some work and time, but I eventually got them to shoot well all the time.

I'd suggest that the OP research some loads that have a known reputation for being accurate and tweak the load from there.

 

[Newtosavage]

The actual bullet can make a world of difference in accuracy I have found. I would buy a box of that exact bullet ( not just one that is the same weight /shape), use the factory brass and use one of the factory rounds to set my depth and crimp with then load up some ammo with different charges.-----Just to see what might happen.

That's the plan, however if this factory ammo keeps shooting this well, it's going to take me a long time to have brass. LOL

For me it all came together when I measured the fed premium col and stuck to it.

I'm sure that's a big part of it. I was kinda surprised to see how little bullet was sticking out of the case when I opened that box of factory ammo - IOW, they were seated pretty deep and well off the lands for my rifle. But now that's two 77's I own that seem to prefer a good long "jump" to the lands. Go figure.

 

[Newtosavage]

Geez, I was always lead to believe 7x57 was one of the most accurate, efficient and well designed cartries of all times. But I admit I never owned one.

It is. Just not in the particular rifle I have. It is lovely to shoot though. Reminds me of a .243

 

[Newtosavage]

I'd suggest that the OP research some loads that have a known reputation for being accurate and tweak the load from there.

I've researched until my eyes have bled. Probably have lost 30-40 hrs of sleep reading things on-line over the past several months, and have tried dozens of combinations. I enjoy reloading, so it was fun, but shooting a factory load that gives me this kind of accuracy right out of the box makes me want to bang my head on the bench.

 

[Newtosavage]

You can probably duplicate the Federal load to some extent. Like said, you now have a lot if the j formation you need.

Federal case
Federal LRP
150gr Nosler Partition
Use the OAL of the factory ammo

Since Federal is part of ATK they might be using Alliant powders but not necessarily. Speer is more likely to be using all in-house components. I would take one if the factory loads apart and at least check the powder weight and see if it's extruded or spherical powder. I know it's almost impossible to ID powder from looks but it can't hurt to look. You can even put the factory round back together not to waste a round.

That's what I plan to do tonight. I did this with my 7x57 Remington Ammo that shot so well, but unfortunately those 140-grain Core-lokt's aren't available anymore.

 

[Newtosavage]

I've been at this for over 40 yrs and I have always been able to beat factory ammo. May take a many rounds to narrow the load down, but that's part of the fun of hand loading.

Were your test on new brass or once fired? This can make a huge difference, shoulder pushed back too far, bolt out of square, bullet jump ... just to name a few.

Need to learn some of these techniques I guess. I bought 60 new Norma brass cases and have loaded them each about 3 times now.

I may well practice with the hand loads and buy off the shelf to hunt.

Yup. I'm not opposed to doing that at all. Actually, I'll probably end up using this factory ammo for hunting Elk (which will be pretty rare for me over the next few years) and use my handloads for deer since I don't need 400-yard accuracy or energy where I hunt deer. Then I can use reduced loads and 140 or even 120-grain bullets and enjoy my range time even more.

 

[RussellC]

+1, I would be comparing everything I could from the factory handloads to the factory loads. Given that it has been a problem for more than one rifle I would be concerned about the press staying true from round to round.

You likely are on to something. I was reading up on accurate reloading, and one suggestion was to remove the round clip /spring in the ram, and use a proper size o ring to hold the shell holder in place. The upshot being the supplied spring held the shell holder at a slight tilt, causing some arbitrary seating angles. Who knows what else could affect reloads?

Russellc

 

[Newtosavage]

I think a person could easily drive themselves nuts over these things.

For me at least, I enjoy shooting. I enjoy shooting cheap ammo even more. So I'll continue to reload my "mediocre and occasionally very good" handloads for cheap range time/practice. It is good to know however that in a pinch I can grab a box of factory and count on it to deliver when it matters most.

 

[MarkDido]

I don't reload for cost or accuracy.

I reload to avoid my wife.

Don't tell her I said that.

 

[Newtosavage]

I don't reload for cost or accuracy.

I reload to avoid my wife.

Don't tell her I said that.

You sir, make a great point. LOL.

Actually, in the evenings when my wife has settled into a good book / Castle marathon binge, reloading in the garage is usually my first best option.

 

[Trent]

It is good to know however that in a pinch I can grab a box of factory and count on it to deliver when it matters most.

If you couldn't, the factories would have been out of business a long time ago.

It's not always possible to best factory performance. I shot some Hornady 308 out of my SCAR that delivered better results than I've been able to attain from reloading. I can mimic everything except the powder. The velocity they get is incredible and I haven't been able to find a powder that can push the rounds that fast without giving me overpressure signs. There's no overpressure signs from the Hornady ammo.

So, sometimes you find a magic pill and stick with it, even if it's not yours. In every other gun I've been able to beat factory ammo except that one so I'm not hanging up the reloading towel just yet.

 

[Sunray]

$37.79 per 20 for the Federal ammo, you may not find in small places, vs $30.99 per 100 for the over priced No$ler Partition bullets.
Two rounds isn't enough to determine accuracy. However, if you reload 'em to 2890 fps you'll be close. Except that no powder listed by Hodgdon gives that velocity even with max loads. Alliant gets close with a 145 grain bullet(no 150 listed on their site) and RL 19. No$ler shows several powders that will too.
"...practice with the hand loads and buy off the shelf to hunt..." Might as well not practice. You need to practice with the ammo your intend using.

 

[Newtosavage]

I shot some Hornady 308 out of my SCAR that delivered better results than I've been able to attain from reloading. I can mimic everything except the powder. The velocity they get is incredible and I haven't been able to find a powder that can push the rounds that fast without giving me overpressure signs. There's no overpressure signs from the Hornady ammo.

Precisely my experience with the Remington ammo in my 7x57. I can't really duplicate it. I can get the velocity but not the accuracy, or the accuracy but not the velocity. The green box is the only stuff that gives me a good degree of both.

Sunray, please show me where you can find 100 Partitions for $30.99 and that's all I'll use. And it was more than two rounds.

I immediately recognized that no listed powder gives you 2890 in the published data - another major consideration for me with this gun.

I disagree with your "might as well not practice" sentiment. Only the target face knows the difference between my hand loads and the factory loads. Everything on my end is the exact same. I'm training the shooter, not the target face.

 

[Bayourambler]

All depends what you are after. Much more rewarding to me knowing I made the bullets, even if they shoot basically the same. In the back of your mind you will find that magic load that will be the one!! If you do, you can take credit. You can't buy that in a store, sorry.

 

[bikemutt]

I've noticed the same thing with some rifles. What doubles the frustration is when 4 handloaded rounds make a perfect one hole group, then we have the flyer. Never a flyer with factory, never a one hole group but, it's a better group technically.

 

[Bayourambler]

One thing ALL factory ammo has in common that we rarely do using bolt actions is crimping. I have no experience in crimping . Just saying.

 

[edwardware]

I have a couple rifles that would shoot a 3 or 5 shot group great one day and then not hit the broad side of the barn the next, all with the same ammunition. It took some work and time, but I eventually got them to shoot well all the time.

Oh come on! You can't dangle that carrot and then not give us at least a hint! Spit it out, what's the secret?

 

[cfullgraf]

Oh come on! You can't dangle that carrot and then not give us at least a hint! Spit it out, what's the secret?

No secret, just normal stuff to improve the accuracy of rifles. Both rifles have slender barrels, so they tend to drift if allowed to heat up. Both rifles are chambered for varmint rounds.

One rifle (221 Remington Fireball), I bedded the action, free floated the barrel and replaced the trigger.

The other rifle (17 Remington), I just free floated the barrel and replaced the trigger. At this point, it would shoot well for four to five shots on a cold barrel. Then the slender barrel would heat and point of impact would begin to drift. Since this rifle is a light weight walking varminter, I elected to stop there.

 

[Newtosavage]

Okay, maybe I'm not done handloading yet. I just beat that Federal factory load with my own concoction - using the Federal cases, 160 grain Nosler Accubonds (the accuracy of which certainly warrants the name!) and H4831sc powder, loaded to the same COL as the factory stuff.

It's amazing how far a jump to the lands that length is in my rifle, but it produced a .75" group yesterday at 100 so I am not complaining. It's absolutely a compressed load as I can hear the long bullet crushing some powder when I seat it so deep.

Good news is that's the bullet I wanted to use for elk over the partition anyway.

 

[someguy2800]

Good news! Some bullets just don't get along with the rifles we want to put them in.

And yes, most of the hunting type rifles I have loaded for have a huge jump to the lands. Its quite normal. I have a couple barrels where the bullet is all the way out of the case before they engage the rifling and they still shoot accurately.

 

[Newtosavage]

At this seating depth, my .280 and my 7x57 could use the same seating die. LOL