I want a revolver but know nothing! Help!

[SabbathWolf]

I might be mistaken, but didn't they change the shape of the frame too?
It looks to me like the curve below the hammer is much lower on the older ones without the lock.

My explanation of the lock was an across the board generalization for all manufacturers.
I'm not a S&W expert, and never owned one "with" a lock.
The pics do look different though.
But I'm not really sure.

 

[highpower]

Your finger shouldn't be on the trigger either way with "any" gun, cocked or not, until you are ready to shoot.
This isn't a matter of "this gun vs that gun."
It's a training issue.

I agree, but how many people take the time to take a tactical training course? How many then keep on training regularly? It may OK for YOU to run around your house with a gun cocked and ready to go, but I don't think that there are very many people that have the training and mindset to do that safely.

Don't take this personally, but I see a lot of braggadocio from people on the internet about what they would do in certain situations. I wonder though, just how well they would perform when the uh, stuff hits the fan.

I remember the first time I was in combat, even with the training I had, I was scared and nervous and really wasn't all that effective.

 

[David E]

Home defense use precludes a single action.

Lol....says who?
TV?
a YouTube armchair commando?
Rambo?

Anyone that has a choice between the two and has given the matter serious contemplation.

Traipsing around the house in the dark with adrenaline pumping with a hammer cocked that's released with a 2# trigger pull isn't very smart.

 

[Retcop]

This gun will not be a CCW. It will probably be in my nightstand for home defense and used for shooting at the ranch. I believe I want something in .357 mag or larger, and I do reload quite a few calibers and will for this pistol as well.

The S&W Model 686 - Plus 357 Mag. 6” will be good for HD and especially good around the ranch Loaded with 38's or 357 rounds. It also chambers 7 rounds.

 

[Warp]

After reading the thread, here are some of my thoughts:

A 4" .357 magnum sounds about right. I could see maybe a 6", since you won't be conceal carrying it...but even around the ranch if you intend to carry it on your person (the best place for it when outside the house, IMO) a 6" barrel can really be a bother. Then again the 6" will have less felt recoil, less muzzle blast (IE, less noise and flash) and more bullet velocity than a 4".

People sometimes want a no-lock when talking about Smith and Wesson revolvers because there are reports of the locks, well, locking when the gun is fired. Nobody wants to have their gun become nothing more than a club when their lives are on the line. These incidents seem to be very rare and possibly (probably?) greatly exaggerated, though. Also worth noting, a competent gunsmith can remove the lock from your revolver.

I advise against using single action for defensive purposes in almost all cases. As such I also advise that anybody who is practicing/training with defense in mind do almost all of their shooting in double action.

If you get a Smith I would consider avoiding the smaller K frame guns. It probably won't be an issue, but hot/light/fast rounds have been said to wear on them faster, especially cutting of the top strap. This is not much of a concern with the Ruger GP100.



Probably if you are looking for a 4-6" full size .357 mag your top contenders will be the Smith 686 and the Ruger GP100. Start searching this section (titles first, then whole threads) and just read and read about them until you come to your own conclusion on which to purchase. And there are plenty of other makes and models to choose from, those two are simply the most popular current production examples.

I went with a 4" GP100.

 

[xmanpike]

Thx everyone for your opinions. I've definitely narrowed it down to a couple!

 

[JohnKSa]

When the hammer is cocked after I chamber a round in my semi-auto pistol, it's the same difference.

There are two big differences.


1. You can unload a cocked autopistol without decocking it even if it doesn't have a decocking system built into it. You can't safely unload a cocked revolver and very few, if any revolvers have a decocking system built into them.

If you cock a revolver and don't shoot, you now have two choices. Put it away cocked, or manually decock it while dealing with the adrenaline rush of thinking you were just about to have to shoot someone.

2. Any autopistol out there with a trigger pull comparable to the trigger pull of a revolver that's been cocked allows you to apply a manual safety. So you can easily put a cocked autopistol into a relatively safe condition by applying a safety--something that's not so easily done with a revolver.

 

[Stainz]

Just a few thoughts...

1. DA shooting, ie, just squeeze the trigger, is intuitive - first nature. Trained or not, high adrenaline situations are more reliable with a DA trigger.
2. A loaded revolver is more reliable, both for first shots and subsequent shots - including clearing 'duds' - just squeeze the trigger again.
3. S&W has put 'Internal Locks' in their revolvers for over ten years now and has yet to spend the first dime in court defending it's implementation. They are reliable. The majority of my revolvers have it - including my pocket protector and nightstand guns - their keys are still in their boxes.

And, finally, as a 'first' suggestion... find an S&W 4" Model 64 as a security guard trade-in. They run from $250-$340 depending on condition from J&G, etc. It is a SS version of the infamous original M&P, the Model 10. Many of the suggested 64's are configures as 'DA-only', ie, have a bobbed hammer and often no SA notch. No problem - DA shooting is intuitive, fast, and builds skills. Get some inexpensive .38 S&W Special plinking ammo - 130gr MC UMC from WallyWorld, 158gr LHPWC/LRN from GA Arms or Zero, etc, and take it to the range. Great for punching paper, pinging plates, or punching holes in cans. Pick up some +P-rated ammo for defensive duties - or 148gr Wadcutters (target loads), if you are recoil-shy. Save your extra money - add to it - later buy another revolver. You'll be better able to make a great choice then - and you'll already have a great home/car protector, too.

I lucked out several years ago. While perusing a local store's used guns, I found some security guard trade-ins - including this 4" 64-8 (The -8 is still the latest engineering release of the 64.). Never issued - ANIB - $309 OTD!



Or... take a leap of faith and get a S&W 4" 627 Pro - an 8-shooter .38/.357 Magnum that comes moonclip ready and with a few other goodies. Check S&W's site for more info/pix. It should run ~$800-$900 most places. Super revolver. Below it is shown with a 2 5/8" PC627 UDR ~ $60-$80 more. The 627 Pro has both an aftermarket grip and a HiViz sight.



Both can take moonclipped rounds or from a 5starfirearms.com machined aluminum speedloader/loading plate combo. Note my Remington R38S12 .38 +P 158gr LSWCHPs - my choice over .357 Magnums for protection. The greatest attribute of these revolvers is that they can take either .38's or .357M's - or, as I reload, wimpy 38-ish loads in .357 Magnum cases. YMMV.

Stainz

 

[Guillermo]

the 4" 686 ia a very good choice for a multi purpose gun.

There are several reasons to buy a used, pre lock, pre MIM 686.

A- cheaper
B- forged rather than injection molded internal parts
C- no "safety device" that requires removing (they are known to set themselves on occasion)
D- better trigger
E- better QC

 

[Sam1911]

This gun will not be a CCW. It will probably be in my nightstand for home defense and used for shooting at the ranch. I believe I want something in .357 mag or larger, and I do reload quite a few calibers and will for this pistol as well.

Nightstand gun for home defense certainly does take Single-Action revolvers largely out of the running. Sure, they work fine, but they are an enthusiast's gun that cannot equal the safety, speed (especially of reloading), and ease of use of a (slightly) more modern double-action revolver for that 99.9% of the population who are not life-long dedicated Single Action shooters.

That's really a hands-down obvious choice. If you think about it, when revolvers ruled the defensive handgunning world, almost every cop, soldier, guard, detective, store clerk, and homeowner reached for a Double-Action model for those uses. Single Actions are beautiful, stylish, nostalgic, and make a FANTASTIC hunting gun. For working around the ranch where your shots will likely be targets of opportunity, varmints and such, a SA revolver has a lot of classic appeal. But, they have shotcomings as a defensive tool.

As for .357 vs. .44? Both are great choices. I'd choose .44 simply because of how incredibly versatile it is. My daughter could handle my .44 Spc. match load when she was 7 years old. My other favorite load is a 300 gr. bullet at 1,250 fps! But of course, .357 and .41 Mag also give you very similar ability to go from "Easy Like Sunday Morning" to "Highway to Hell" from one cylinder full to the next!

I'd also stick in the 4" - 6" range. My personal match and carry revolver is a 4" 629 and it just MIGHT be the one handgun I'd keep if all others had to go.

 

[Frank Ettin]

Another thing to consider is that while the S&W 629/625/627s are fine revolvers in their respective calibers (.44 Magnum/.44 Special, .45 Colt or .45 ACP, .357 Magnum/.38 Special), they are built on the large S&W frame (called the N frame). Some people with smaller hands (me for example) could find them a bit too large to manage well, especially for shooting double action.

The 686 in .357 Magnum/.38 Special is built on the slightly smaller L frame and can be manged better by some people. The still slightly smaller S&W K frame revolvers (models 10, 19, 65 and 66) also in .357 Magnum/.38 Special handle nicely too, but felt recoil is a bit stouter.

 

[michaelbsc]

When a single action is cocked, it takes very little trigger pressure to discharge the weapon. A double action (actually it should be referred to as trigger cocking) trigger pull is heavier and longer and therefore requires a more deliberate action on the part of the shooter.

At some point you are going to cock the gun, I can't speak for others, but if I was tracking an intruder in my house, I would be full of adrenaline and probably more likely to pull the trigger before I was ready. I would rather have the more deliberate action required to use a revolver in the double action mode. Besides, if you really, really have to walk around your house with a cocked gun, you have the option of using your double action gun in the single action mode.

Your attorney wants you to have a DAO enclosed hammer. That removes all doubt in the defense process. The testimony then becomes that you were absolutely in fear for your life. No mistakes. No accidental discharge.

Just don't shoot the intruder in the back.

I am not an attorney. And I don't play one on TV. So this advice is worth what you're paying me, nothing.

MB

 

[jj1962hemi]

I'd get a .357Mag and start shooting it with .38SPL to get comfortable. I love my Model 66 (ss, 4" bbl, adj. sights). Since you're not carrying it, I'd stick with adjustable sights. It's also cheaper to shoot in .38SPL than a 44 of any kind (if cost is a concern).

I had a Ruger Single Six that was my favorite handgun in terms of "feel," but I'd be leery of using it for SD due to the potential of accidental discharge. That said, I may buy one in .357 because I like them.

I've also heard the Ruger GP-100 is practically indestructable, which is nice if you plan on running hot loads around the ranch.

Another more ammo-cost effective choice would be a Model 25 in 45ACP. They're beautiful, pack a solid punch (not quite like the 44s), and ammo is easy and cheap to come by. I don't see you going wrong with an S&W or Ruger.

For what you're considering paying, you could also get a nice, collectable, appreciating, S&W 1917 revlver in 45 ACP (high on my wish list).

Good luck!

JJ

 

[xmanpike]

You guys are great. My CCW is a Dan Wesson CCO in 45 ACP right now, and while I would be convenient to get my revolver in this, I like expanding calibre in my collection.

I'm def going .357 or .44 mag route. Recoil has never been an issue for me. Even shooting +p loads in my aluminum frame 1911. Just a matter of finding the right gun now. I'm hesitant to buy used as I don't know the things to look for on a revolver that I would on a semi-auto. No idea how the lock-up should be.

 

[MrDig]

I am partial to Ruger GP100 models, But I also own Taurus, as well as Smith and Wesson Revolvers.
If the Money you pay is not an issue I would recommend the Smith and Wesson and say go to a store find a few different models if you can and see how they feel in your hand. Not all models are the same even with the same brand.
If you cannot afford a Smith and Wesson Revolver I would recommend the Ruger GP 100 with a 4 inch Barrel.
I would recommend a Taurus 66 but would get flamed for doing it. I would also recommend saving the extra money and getting a Ruger GP100 if pressed, because I agree with most that you would be happier with the Ruger in the long run.
I can't really comment on the lower end revolvers but have heard good reviews of the Rossi 357's. Rossi is comparatively priced with the Taurus revolvers and at a show recently was told by a Taurus Representative that they purchased Rossi.

 

[Walkalong]

I'm def going .357 or .44 mag route

Hard to beat a Redhawk or Models 29/629 for .44 Mag, but if you bump into a deal on an Astra .44 mag, they are fine guns as well.

.357? Gosh, there are so many excellent ones. For an all around gun I like the 4" revolver, but for range shooting, I like 6" guns as well.

Can't go wrong with a 19, 66, or Security Six for smaller and lighter gun, a GP-100, 586/686, or Trooper Mk III for a more medium sized gun, & a 27 or 28 if you want something bigger. Kind of depends on what size/weight you are interested in. Naturally recoil goes up as the size goes down.

Not to mention the Cobra or Python, if you want to spend more.

 

[56hawk]

Recoil has never been an issue for me. Even shooting +p loads in my aluminum frame 1911.

Have you ever shot a 44 Magnum? Recoil is going to be at least twice as much as that +p 45 ACP.

 

[Warp]

Recoil has never been an issue for me. Even shooting +p loads in my aluminum frame 1911.

No offense, but it sounds like you are yet to experience even the tip of the iceberg in terms of handgun recoil.

 

[xmanpike]

No I understand. I have shot a .357 mag and .44mag that were both short barrels. I just have never really been bothered by recoil. I heard the same Warnings when I was getting ready to shoot a 338-378. While its not exactly pleasant, it's nothing that's difficult to deal with.

 

[56hawk]

Okay. Just wanted to make sure.

 

[xmanpike]

Appreciate it. I like things that give a big bang

 

[xmanpike]

Why do I have a feeling I am going to end up with both a .357 and a .44?

 

[56hawk]

Don't forget that you are also going to have to get a 454 and a 500.

 

[xmanpike]

I thought about that already, but I think I'd split the diff and get the 460 so I can shoot 460, 454, and 45 colt loads!

 

[MrDig]

Why do I have a feeling I am going to end up with both a .357 and a .44?

That is what happened to me, I also have Marlin Lever Guns to go with each of the revolvers.
This is the slippery slope we tread