I want an Ithaca 37 or clone thereof!!!

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There are so many guns that take priority over another pump but I keep getting bit by the Ithaca 37 bug. It's probably that evil looking barrel lug. The Stevens 350 is currently catching my eye. I'm not sure what the market on an Ithaca 37 DSPS is but if it's above 500+ the desire to have one goes down dramatically. 18 or 20" doesn't really matter, but I am NOT interested in one of the newer Ithaca defense models.

Cutting one down apparently isn't recommended because they're not really made for magnum loads? Is this myth? It would be exclusively a 2 3/4" 00 gun anyway. If I did cut one down, which model would you recommend? I wouldn't spend more than 300-350 on a gun I intended to cut down.

Someone give me the low down on the Ithaca and Ithaca clones. This is an iffy investment so I want to make sure I do it right the first time around and don't buy or build a lemon. How to spot feed issues, making sure the barrel isn't pitted to tarnation, stuff like that. Ideally I'd like to spend 500 or less TOTAL and have a gun that'll run like a top for one thing, 00 buckshot. I mean in all likelihood I'm going to be getting a 4+1 gun, that's harder to work on and harder to take care of than something that will probably cost less, hold more and be far more serviceable (A Defender or another Moss or a Wingmaster). So I want to do it right!
 
thanks for the link. thats pretty much exactly what im looking at...although I could probably come away with one OTD at the Cabelas for at or near that price....pretty hard to beat the deals I'm seeing at Cabelas, without the transfer.

The stocks on the Norinco/Stevens stuff look awful though. What does an Ithaca wood set go for usually? Condition notwithstanding...I'll probably refinish it myself...

or just throw a Choate pg on the thing.
 
I haven't heard a lot of good things about the Norinco 37 clones, I'd stay clear of them. Anyway the main thing to look out for with 37s is the right hand shell stop, which does most of the work. If it's badly worn or the {small, hidden, coil} spring has gone soft they'll start dropping live shells or allowing double feeds.

Sometimes just even getting enough accumulated filth in the shell stop channel can cause the above, although you'd really have to neglect the gun to get to that point.

The other thing I've noticed with older '37s is that that they seem to be made out of softer than average steel and seem to scratch and wear a bit more easily, you won't wear one out but they tend to pick up more in the way of "character marks" than most guns.

If it were me I'd look for a pre 1970 gun, these are better made and also happen to be slam fire capable. I wouldn't worry too much about the 4 round mag capacity of these guns {the 7+1 wasn't offered until well into the '70s IIRC} because they're extremely easy to load and keep topped up.
 
Ithaca 37

What about model 37's made in the early to mid 80's?
Anyone hear or know anything about them?
 
AUN,
My reply to an identical thread you started back in January... <yawn>

"You will never get a 37 because you can't modify it like a set of legos.

The guns with a serial number lower than 855,000 cannot interchange barrels unless you get a gunsmith involved that knows what he is doing -$200 at least. I checked.

The guns newer than that can interchange barrels - maybe.

A used 37 barrel is beaucoup bucks.

There is no extension available because of the barrel lug. If you want a mag extension, you have to get a new mag tube -- plus a different barrel. See above.

No sidesaddle available.

There are maybe 2 synthetic stock options and 2 manufacturers making replacement stocks. 90% of the vintage Model 37s will have a cracked forearm. Replacement stocks can run more than the original cost of the gun.

No aftermarket barrel shrouds or breacher chokes or anything remotely tacticool.

An actual vintage Police model will run into the many several hundred dollars range.

So you can't do diddly with them -- maybe.

My 1951 Model 37 Featherlight
Synthetic furniture
18" barrel
XS Big Dot Tritium Front Sight

37-19.jpg

I paid $98 for the one in the picture. It was so dirty it would not cycle. The stock was held on with electrical tape and it had no fore-end. The barrel was 28" with a Cutts on it.

One ugly mofo, let me tell ya. "
 
thread bookmarked, for that info andy thanks. It's going to be a tough proposition to first find one and second to meet my price point. The Stevens 350 is a consideration but I'd want to try for a real Ithaca first.


yours is sweet. I actually would love to have one just like yours...don't plan to do much to it, but I would hope to feed it ammo regularly and have it run well as long as I take care of it. I actually hope to just find an 18-20" gun, bead sight, extended mag tube or not, in good working order with a clean bore. That's it and that's all. A sidesaddle or shroud or any of that would downplay the gun's strengths.

I'll probably resurrect this thread if I find any local guns I am considering and see what people think.
 
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andy, in your opinion is your 37 to be relied upon like you would an 870 or a 500, PROVIDED it's taken care of?

i'm trying to get a good idea of the reliability a decent 37 has to offer these days.
 
Different animal. The 870's and 500's are collections of piano wire and springs and stamped steel. IMHO, you have a 50% chance of getting an 870 or 500 that somebody has mucked around with just because they are so popular and there are so many ummmmm.... accessories available. I have little experience with the Mossbergs but the 870s just run and run and run.

OTOH, the Model 37 is made out of big old chunks of American Steel and it fits together in an insanely intricate fashion. No piano wire or little stamped keepers or pot metal. The slick action is no accident -- it is genius. Since you have to take the stock off to break it down, many of the Model 37s are relatively untouched.

I have a 1960's era Wingmaster behind the seat of my truck and the Model 37 pictured above leaning against the door frame of my front door. I trust 'em both.
 
I will chime in hear... I have 2 37's and a 51. I love all three of them and I have shot thousands of round thru the 37's, not so much the 51 I dont want to break slide rod or whatever it's called. I have taken a couple freinds with me to shoot sporting clays where we all put 100 rounds thru the gun in a couple of hours. Never have I had any problems with them. I would love to cut one up into a defense gun but I cant bring myself to do it even tho I snagged up an extra barrel a few months back.
 
AUN, I've seen 37s going in pawn shops for under $300 in my area. Don't know where you are, but around here, 37s are neither popular or well liked. As long as you don't get a really early model, or one in super prime condition, you'll be ok. I have recently seen a rather banged up 37 Featherlight, 28" mod choked bbl. for $195.
 
purpose would be strictly 00 buckshot defensive purposes. thats it. no tacticool stuff...

so it's down to a Wingmaster w/out mag extension or a 37...I just want to select the one that'll give me the most for the longest if necessary...obviously I have a preference towards the 37 as I've never owned one...I know what I'm getting with the Wingmaster.
 
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andy, in your opinion is your 37 to be relied upon like you would an 870 or a 500, PROVIDED it's taken care of?

i'm trying to get a good idea of the reliability a decent 37 has to offer these days.
Click to expand...

I trust mine, they might require a little more effort to maintain but give them that and if anything their practical reliability is higher; they're about the most difficult of pumps to short stroke under stress and the bottom eject does a heck of job keeping stuff out of the action that shouldn't be there.
 
I say get the 37, you wont regret it. Anyone who doesn't like a 37 more than likely has never had one or shot one because everyone I have let use one of mine has loved it.
 
I've got a YL 12-1J4. A Chinese copy of the M37. All I have to say is it IS one heck of a shotgun. After about 250 rounds the slide started to fall all the way back by itself when the disconnect is pressed. It is accurrte, reliabdle, good steel and has not let me down in over four years of use. All that for less than two bills otd.
 
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