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Identity and Date of Manufacture of S&W Revolvers

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by Brian Williams, Jun 21, 2008.

  1. jmcgaz

    jmcgaz Member

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    Thanks Radagast,
    I assume there's a typo in the serial number you quoted -- it looks like one digit too many. So, I gather mine (386xxx) must be considered modern rather than antique?
    Unfortunately I do not have the box, but it seems there is very little or no wear at all. I greatly appreciate the info.

    Jim
     
  2. sgtstryker

    sgtstryker Member

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    Hey jm, Radagast beat me to the draw on it. I had the model wrong anyway..He's one of the guys I mentioned. I edited my post after I saw his..
     
  3. Throwingdown

    Throwingdown Member

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    Model 27-2
    3.5"
    square
    6 shot fixed front adjustable rear
    SN# S 255349
     
  4. sgtstryker

    sgtstryker Member

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    Your Model 27 was built 1964-1965. The barrel length you have should up the value some.
     
  5. Radagast
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    Radagast Moderator Staff Member

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    theresa0801:
    You have a .38 Military & Police Postwar, or pre-model 10, manufactured in 1952, if the serial number is C224438.
    If 'Model 10' is stamped on the frame under the cylinder yoke then it was manufactured after 1957 and the serial number needs to be checked.
    30598 will be an assembly number, used to track parts in the factory. It has no meaning after the gun is assembled.

    jmcgaz:
    Correct, 382022 was the number I should have typed. It is modern as far as the ATF is concerned and for the purposes of selling it over state lines.
     
  6. Metal Tiger

    Metal Tiger Member

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    Just picked up a beauty in an 8 3/8 barrel .44 Mag. Smith and Wesson 629-1
    Really nice with a serial number:
    N 9 3857 X

    What year?
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2012
  7. Radagast
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    Radagast Moderator Staff Member

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    Metal Tiger:
    The Model 629-1 .44 Magnum Stainless with 8&3/8 inch barrel was produced from 1984 to 1988. The N910xxxx to N953xxx range was used January to June 1985, so early 1985 for your gun.
     
  8. flhr11

    flhr11 Member

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    how about a 27-3 serial # AUB......, blue 6 inch, with box and papers, about 90%: year? and what do you think of the value?
    I can't believe you're not tired of doing this!
    animl
     
  9. Radagast
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    Radagast Moderator Staff Member

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    flhr11:
    Late 1986 or early 1987 for your gun, with my guesstimate being 1987. For a value estimate I suggest you post a new thread with pics, I would not hazard a guess. 27-3 means not pinned and recessed, thus less collectible. Assuming a timber presentation box, then more collectible. 90% condition is less collectible.

    Plenty of more knowledgeable members than me to ask though.

    As for getting fed up with it? Nah. I've been a *deep breath* range officer, club secretary, club president, club trainer, IPSC NROA member, IPSC state secretary, lobbyist at State & Federal ministerial levels and previously was selected to shoot for my country. I guess I was born a gun nut and I like to help other shooters. I find doing this restful and satisfying. I also like S&Ws. If it ever stops being fun then I'll turn over the job. Hasn't happened yet. :)
     
  10. KenW.

    KenW. Member

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    How about an S&W 36-2, nickel plated, round butt, non-pinned barrel and no lock,

    SN BDU3xxx.

    I wish I had that catalog people are talking about. I can look up all the Colts and Winchesters in books my Dad left me, but not so with S&W. He wasn't a fan.
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2012
  11. flhr11

    flhr11 Member

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    radagast, thanks for your help. (and your persistence with the avocation)!

    I guess this is why the 27-3's run a couple hundred cheaper than the 27-2's and earlier.
    Looking at one for $600, down from $750. I guess if I want it I should just buy it or pay more money and get the 27-2.

    This is like therapy.
    flhr11
     
  12. Radagast
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    Radagast Moderator Staff Member

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    KenW:
    Early 1989 for your Model 36-2 Chiefs Special. the -2 refers to design changes in 1988.
     
  13. KenW.

    KenW. Member

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    Thanks Rad!:)
     
  14. Metal Tiger

    Metal Tiger Member

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    Thank you sir:
    7957844998_ae7cf1815e_b.png
     
  15. JesusismyPapa

    JesusismyPapa Member

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    Dear Rad, after a year and a half it just occurred to me that I never told you "Thank you." In post # 3134 I introduced myself and my Smithy .32 Long. I guess I was sooo floored by the fact I had a handgun that was as old as my father-in-law (God rest his soul), that I completely forgot my good manners. As many post as you have made here, I would like to thank you for ALL the help you have given us and tell you I have enjoyed being subscribed to this thread and learning what you have to offer. THANK YOU!
     
  16. Radagast
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    Radagast Moderator Staff Member

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    Thanks gents. It's always nice to get a little feed back. :)
     
  17. ski577

    ski577 Member

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    S&W K frame Mdl 10

    I recently acquired a S&W K Frame Mdl 10 38 spec ctg 4" bbl 6 shot Sn# 694855. In really good condition (some holster wear). Had the timing checked, checked out okay. I fired 50 rounds with no malfunctions. Can anyone tell more about the weapon?
     
  18. Radagast
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    Radagast Moderator Staff Member

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    ski577:
    Serial number 6948xx means a 1941 manufacture date. It will be a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 4th Change, the Model 10 designation was used after 1957.
    Couple of caveats.
    If it is stamped Model 10 then there should be a letter prefix to the serial
    number, a C or a D. This will mean a different manufacture date.

    If it is a Model of 1905, check that the chambers are bored straight through. If they have a slight taper then it was originally chambered in .38 S&W for the British during WWII and bored out post war for sale as surplus. Most of the production during this time was for the British, but there was still some civilian and later US military production.

    If a Model of 1905 then it lacks the internal hammer block introduced in 1944. If dropped it could fire. So leave the chamber under the hammer empty.
    S&W does not recommend use of PlusP ammo in guns made prior to 1957. THR member Saxon Pig has fired 1200 rounds of PlusP equivalent through a similar gun with no issues, so I doubt there will be a problem. Make up your own mind before doing so.
    If the gun has been bored out from .38 S&W, stick to standard velocity lead ammo only. Otherwise bulged or split cases may be a problem.
     
  19. DUNEZRUNNER

    DUNEZRUNNER Member

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    I was wondering if you could help me with this ones identificaton?

    a) 38 spl
    b) 1.75"
    c) grips shape (round or square)
    d) 5
    e) ramped
    f) J255XX
    g) 36

    Thanks for the help.
     
  20. Radagast
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    Radagast Moderator Staff Member

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    DUNEZRUNNER:
    Your Model 36 Chiefs Special was manufactured in 1969 or 1970. Serial range for those years was J1 to J99999, so 1969 seems likely.
     
  21. ParanoidVengeance

    ParanoidVengeance Member

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    a) caliber
    b) bbl length (from cylinder to muzzle)
    c) grips shape (round or square)
    d) number of shots/cylinder bores
    e) type of sights.
    f) serial number, and if there is a letter in front of or anywhere near the s/n on the bottom of the grip
    g) Model number if it is under the crane.
    That number, if it is the s/n, should come from the butt of the grip (or under the barrel or face of the cylinder).

    A) .38
    B)2 inch
    C)Square
    D)6
    E)Ramped, with pinned barrel
    F)863012
    G)4911 under crane

    Under barrel 38" .767" BNP 63012 3 1/2 tons (If I read it correctly)

    With grip panels off, 4 screw on plate and one in front of trigger guard.And it is blued.
     
  22. colorado_handgunner

    colorado_handgunner Member

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    I know mine is not old, but I bought it second hand and would like to know how old. Thanks for all you done in this thread.

    a) caliber
    b) bbl length (from cylinder to muzzle)
    c) grips shape (round or square)
    d) number of shots/cylinder bores
    e) type of sights.
    f) serial number, and if there is a letter in front of or anywhere near the s/n on the bottom of the grip
    g) Model number if it is under the crane.
    That number, if it is the s/n, should come from the butt of the grip (or under the barrel or face of the cylinder).

    Model 642
    A) .38
    B) 1 7/8"
    C) Rubber
    D) 5
    E) Integral/Fixed
    F) CRD26##
    G) 642-1

    Thanks in advance.





    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2012
  23. Radagast
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    Radagast Moderator Staff Member

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    colorado_handgunner:
    Your Model 642-1 Centennial Airweight Stainless was manufactured after July 2004, which is the latest date the Standard catalog of S&W covers.
    Because it is of recent manufacture a call to S&W should give you the shipping date.

    ParanoidVengeance:
    You have a British Service Revolver, manufactured in 1941, originally in caliber .38 S&W and probably with a 5 inch barrel. If the barrel has the ejector rod locking lug then it is a factory barrel and quite rare. If it has no locking lug then it was definitely cut down. BNP stands for British Nitro Proof, they marked their guns with pressure in tons rather than pounds.
    Check to see if a .38 Special will fit, as many of these guns were bored out after the war to accept .38 special.
    As the case head of the .38 S&W is wider than the .38 special, the chances of bulged or cracked .38 special brass caused by the slightly oversize chambers is high.
    If the barrel locking lug is missing then the crane can become permanently sprung if fired, especially with jacketed or PLusP ammo.
    Basic summary: .38 S&W & original barrel = collectors item. .38 special and cut down barrel = potentially unsafe and worth no more than $150.
     
  24. ParanoidVengeance

    ParanoidVengeance Member

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    IMG_20120916_142709.gif

    IMG_20120916_142700.gif

    IMG_20120916_142651.gif

    I take it I have a dangerous pistol then. Just my luck. I just bought some UMC 38 special +P 125 grain rounds. DOH!
     
  25. Radagast
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    Radagast Moderator Staff Member

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    Stick to lead only standard velocity ammo and it should be fine. No PlusP, no jacketed or semi jacketed. I sprang the crane on a similar revolver with 5 rounds of 110 grain +P.
    Use of standard pressure ammo also reduces the chances of brass splitting.

    With the crane closed, see if there is a gap between the crane and the frame when viewed from the front. If it is tight then it hasn't been sprung. YUse the how to check out a revolver thread stickied at the top of this sub forum to verify that your gun is in good mechanical condition.

    Another caveat. This gun predates the internal hammer block safety introduced in 1944. If dropped it could fire, so leave the chamber under the hammer empty.

    Short summary, subject to the above it will still do duty as a five shot self defense weapon, but I would retire it as soon as funds allow for a more modern firearm.
     

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