Identity and Date of Manufacture of S&W Revolvers

Radagast said:
jmcgaz:
You have a .38 Double Action 4th Model manufactured around 1898-1899. Pre-1898 guns, before serial number 3820022 are considered antiques and not subject to Federal regulation.
There is no way to prove it is unfired. If it has the original box, etc, then value could be around $700 or so. Any sign of wear will halve that price. The six inch barrel is rare and may add to the price. The Standard catalog of S&W noted that in 2006 a .38 DA 4th Model with six inch barrel, factory pearl grips and box in 90% condition was listed at $1000. Whether it sold at that price is another question.
Click to expand...

Thanks Radagast,
I assume there's a typo in the serial number you quoted -- it looks like one digit too many. So, I gather mine (386xxx) must be considered modern rather than antique?
Unfortunately I do not have the box, but it seems there is very little or no wear at all. I greatly appreciate the info.

Jim
 
theresa0801:
You have a .38 Military & Police Postwar, or pre-model 10, manufactured in 1952, if the serial number is C224438.
If 'Model 10' is stamped on the frame under the cylinder yoke then it was manufactured after 1957 and the serial number needs to be checked.
30598 will be an assembly number, used to track parts in the factory. It has no meaning after the gun is assembled.

jmcgaz:
Correct, 382022 was the number I should have typed. It is modern as far as the ATF is concerned and for the purposes of selling it over state lines.
 
Metal Tiger:
The Model 629-1 .44 Magnum Stainless with 8&3/8 inch barrel was produced from 1984 to 1988. The N910xxxx to N953xxx range was used January to June 1985, so early 1985 for your gun.
 
how about a 27-3 serial # AUB......, blue 6 inch, with box and papers, about 90%: year? and what do you think of the value?
I can't believe you're not tired of doing this!
animl
 
flhr11:
Late 1986 or early 1987 for your gun, with my guesstimate being 1987. For a value estimate I suggest you post a new thread with pics, I would not hazard a guess. 27-3 means not pinned and recessed, thus less collectible. Assuming a timber presentation box, then more collectible. 90% condition is less collectible.

Plenty of more knowledgeable members than me to ask though.

As for getting fed up with it? Nah. I've been a *deep breath* range officer, club secretary, club president, club trainer, IPSC NROA member, IPSC state secretary, lobbyist at State & Federal ministerial levels and previously was selected to shoot for my country. I guess I was born a gun nut and I like to help other shooters. I find doing this restful and satisfying. I also like S&Ws. If it ever stops being fun then I'll turn over the job. Hasn't happened yet. :)
 
How about an S&W 36-2, nickel plated, round butt, non-pinned barrel and no lock,

SN BDU3xxx.

I wish I had that catalog people are talking about. I can look up all the Colts and Winchesters in books my Dad left me, but not so with S&W. He wasn't a fan.
 
Last edited:
radagast, thanks for your help. (and your persistence with the avocation)!

I guess this is why the 27-3's run a couple hundred cheaper than the 27-2's and earlier.
Looking at one for $600, down from $750. I guess if I want it I should just buy it or pay more money and get the 27-2.

This is like therapy.
flhr11
 
Dear Rad, after a year and a half it just occurred to me that I never told you "Thank you." In post # 3134 I introduced myself and my Smithy .32 Long. I guess I was sooo floored by the fact I had a handgun that was as old as my father-in-law (God rest his soul), that I completely forgot my good manners. As many post as you have made here, I would like to thank you for ALL the help you have given us and tell you I have enjoyed being subscribed to this thread and learning what you have to offer. THANK YOU!
 
S&W K frame Mdl 10

I recently acquired a S&W K Frame Mdl 10 38 spec ctg 4" bbl 6 shot Sn# 694855. In really good condition (some holster wear). Had the timing checked, checked out okay. I fired 50 rounds with no malfunctions. Can anyone tell more about the weapon?
 
ski577:
Serial number 6948xx means a 1941 manufacture date. It will be a .38 Military & Police Model of 1905 4th Change, the Model 10 designation was used after 1957.
Couple of caveats.
If it is stamped Model 10 then there should be a letter prefix to the serial
number, a C or a D. This will mean a different manufacture date.

If it is a Model of 1905, check that the chambers are bored straight through. If they have a slight taper then it was originally chambered in .38 S&W for the British during WWII and bored out post war for sale as surplus. Most of the production during this time was for the British, but there was still some civilian and later US military production.

If a Model of 1905 then it lacks the internal hammer block introduced in 1944. If dropped it could fire. So leave the chamber under the hammer empty.
S&W does not recommend use of PlusP ammo in guns made prior to 1957. THR member Saxon Pig has fired 1200 rounds of PlusP equivalent through a similar gun with no issues, so I doubt there will be a problem. Make up your own mind before doing so.
If the gun has been bored out from .38 S&W, stick to standard velocity lead ammo only. Otherwise bulged or split cases may be a problem.
 
I was wondering if you could help me with this ones identificaton?

a) 38 spl
b) 1.75"
c) grips shape (round or square)
d) 5
e) ramped
f) J255XX
g) 36

Thanks for the help.
 
DUNEZRUNNER:
Your Model 36 Chiefs Special was manufactured in 1969 or 1970. Serial range for those years was J1 to J99999, so 1969 seems likely.
 
a) caliber
b) bbl length (from cylinder to muzzle)
c) grips shape (round or square)
d) number of shots/cylinder bores
e) type of sights.
f) serial number, and if there is a letter in front of or anywhere near the s/n on the bottom of the grip
g) Model number if it is under the crane.
That number, if it is the s/n, should come from the butt of the grip (or under the barrel or face of the cylinder).

A) .38
B)2 inch
C)Square
D)6
E)Ramped, with pinned barrel
F)863012
G)4911 under crane

Under barrel 38" .767" BNP 63012 3 1/2 tons (If I read it correctly)

With grip panels off, 4 screw on plate and one in front of trigger guard.And it is blued.
 
I know mine is not old, but I bought it second hand and would like to know how old. Thanks for all you done in this thread.

a) caliber
b) bbl length (from cylinder to muzzle)
c) grips shape (round or square)
d) number of shots/cylinder bores
e) type of sights.
f) serial number, and if there is a letter in front of or anywhere near the s/n on the bottom of the grip
g) Model number if it is under the crane.
That number, if it is the s/n, should come from the butt of the grip (or under the barrel or face of the cylinder).

Model 642
A) .38
B) 1 7/8"
C) Rubber
D) 5
E) Integral/Fixed
F) CRD26##
G) 642-1

Thanks in advance.





Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 
Last edited:
colorado_handgunner:
Your Model 642-1 Centennial Airweight Stainless was manufactured after July 2004, which is the latest date the Standard catalog of S&W covers.
Because it is of recent manufacture a call to S&W should give you the shipping date.

ParanoidVengeance:
You have a British Service Revolver, manufactured in 1941, originally in caliber .38 S&W and probably with a 5 inch barrel. If the barrel has the ejector rod locking lug then it is a factory barrel and quite rare. If it has no locking lug then it was definitely cut down. BNP stands for British Nitro Proof, they marked their guns with pressure in tons rather than pounds.
Check to see if a .38 Special will fit, as many of these guns were bored out after the war to accept .38 special.
As the case head of the .38 S&W is wider than the .38 special, the chances of bulged or cracked .38 special brass caused by the slightly oversize chambers is high.
If the barrel locking lug is missing then the crane can become permanently sprung if fired, especially with jacketed or PLusP ammo.
Basic summary: .38 S&W & original barrel = collectors item. .38 special and cut down barrel = potentially unsafe and worth no more than $150.
 
Stick to lead only standard velocity ammo and it should be fine. No PlusP, no jacketed or semi jacketed. I sprang the crane on a similar revolver with 5 rounds of 110 grain +P.
Use of standard pressure ammo also reduces the chances of brass splitting.

With the crane closed, see if there is a gap between the crane and the frame when viewed from the front. If it is tight then it hasn't been sprung. YUse the how to check out a revolver thread stickied at the top of this sub forum to verify that your gun is in good mechanical condition.

Another caveat. This gun predates the internal hammer block safety introduced in 1944. If dropped it could fire, so leave the chamber under the hammer empty.

Short summary, subject to the above it will still do duty as a five shot self defense weapon, but I would retire it as soon as funds allow for a more modern firearm.
 
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