Random Discharge
Member
- Joined
- Dec 31, 2002
- Messages
- 196
OK, here's the deal. I have a decent SP101 specimen, except the barrel cylinder gap is a bit iffy.
A 6 mil feeler guage will go all the way through the gap top to bottom.
An 8 mil feeler guage will go almost all the way (95%) through very tightly
A 10 mil feeler guage will go ~1/3 of the way into the gap on the right side
A 12 mil feeler guage will go just a little ways into the gap on the top right side, tightly.
From which I conclude the gap starts out around 12 mills on the top right and finishes out about 7 mills on the bottom left. Pretty consistent across all cylinders.
I know it ain't great, but is it bad enough to send to Ruger for evaluation (they offered to take a look at it if I send it in)?
If I send it in, I would ask them to turn threads off the barrel or replace the barrel to close the gap down to a uniform gap less than 5 mils, whether it was a warranty repair or not, i.e. make it clear I'll pay if I'm asking for better than assembly line "in-spec". I'm not looking for a freebie performance tuning, but I do want a high quality product back if I bother to ship it.
Frankly, I had such a bad previous experience with reject parts being thrown at a warranty return to "fix" it I'm a little gun shy sending it in. I don't want to send it in and get a uniform gap >12 mils across the board to "fix" it, or worse have reject parts like a longer cylinder with oval chambers and bad machining thrown at it.
Should it stay or should it go?
A 6 mil feeler guage will go all the way through the gap top to bottom.
An 8 mil feeler guage will go almost all the way (95%) through very tightly
A 10 mil feeler guage will go ~1/3 of the way into the gap on the right side
A 12 mil feeler guage will go just a little ways into the gap on the top right side, tightly.
From which I conclude the gap starts out around 12 mills on the top right and finishes out about 7 mills on the bottom left. Pretty consistent across all cylinders.
I know it ain't great, but is it bad enough to send to Ruger for evaluation (they offered to take a look at it if I send it in)?
If I send it in, I would ask them to turn threads off the barrel or replace the barrel to close the gap down to a uniform gap less than 5 mils, whether it was a warranty repair or not, i.e. make it clear I'll pay if I'm asking for better than assembly line "in-spec". I'm not looking for a freebie performance tuning, but I do want a high quality product back if I bother to ship it.
Frankly, I had such a bad previous experience with reject parts being thrown at a warranty return to "fix" it I'm a little gun shy sending it in. I don't want to send it in and get a uniform gap >12 mils across the board to "fix" it, or worse have reject parts like a longer cylinder with oval chambers and bad machining thrown at it.
Should it stay or should it go?
