So my timing is off....

[Mrcymstr]

I recently acquired an H&R 733 and I was running a health checkup (my first revolver so I'm taking my time) when it appears I have found the timing to be slightly off. At full lock up the cylinder appears to be rotated too far. How concerned should I be and if it is a major issue is there some way I can repair it (since it really isn't of enough value for me to send to a smith)? Everything else I've checked this far looks good but I still need to check cylinder gap (it looks very tight but I dont have a feeler gauge at the moment).

 

[CraigC]

If your alignment is off at full lockup (cylinder locked by bolt) that's not a timing issue but an alignment issue. Timing issues are easily corrected by any competent gunsmith, alignment issues are essentially manufacturing defects and not easily corrected.

That part of the "revolver checkout", is essentially wrong. That is basically an alignment check and there is nothing there about checking the actual timing. Which has to do with 'when' (time!) the cylinder locks up in relation to the hammer and trigger reaching full cock. You can have perfect timing but pitiful alignment, just as easily as you can have perfect alignment and your timing be off.

That part of the check-out should be changed. Now I know why there are so many misconceptions regarding this issue.

 

[Fremmer]

How far off is the alignment? Will it shoot accurately, or can you see or feel the misalignment?

 

[MikeJackmin]

If it shoots well and doesn't spit lead out the sides, it ain't broke. Try it and see.

 

[Mrcymstr]

By my estimation it is only off by about .01". And yes I can see and feel the edge of the cylinder jutting out.

@CraigC
I didn't know that I had been misinformed on terminology. Care to elaborate slightly?

 

[CraigC]

A lot of folks apparently have some misconceptions about this and think timing/alignment are the same. I'll try to explain.

Timing is the relationship between the hammer, trigger, bolt, hand and cylinder ratchet. There's a time and a place for everything. A properly timed revolver will have a bolt (cylinder stop, pawl) that rises into or just before the bolt notch leede. The hammer/trigger should reach the full cock notch just after or just as the bolt locks into the bolt notch in the cylinder. Early rising bolts are a whole nuther discussion but what you do not want is the hammer reaching full cock before the cylinder locks into place. In this situation, the gun can be fired before the chamber is aligned with the bore and bad things can happen, depending on how bad it is. Timing can be easily adjusted by modifying the hand, ratchet and/or bolt. Good revolvers can eventually develop enough wear to affect timing. The proper test for correct timing is to observe when these things happen as you slowly cock the hammer. Note, this has nothing to do with alignment.

Alignment is what is described in the revolver checkout. This is very simply the alignment of the chambers and bore at full lockup. If alignment is off it could be due to chambers that are cut out of place, a barrel that is misdrilled (we've seen this) or the bolt slot or bolt cuts in the cylinder misplaced. These are manufacturing defects and not easily remedied.

Bottom line, if the cylinder locks before the hammer is cocked and the sixgun is accurate and doesn't lead excessively or spit debris from the barrel/cylinder gap, don't worry about it. Only in a Korth, Freedom Arms or full custom Ruger can we expect such things to be perfect.

 

[Jaymo]

And a Korth, FA, or full custom Ruger will carry a price tag to match.
Then again, we can't expect a revolver that easily shoots MOA at 100 yds at mass produced prices.