I'm building some portable target stands

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John Joseph

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...and I'm curious---what are your favorite designs?
So far I've cut the 2x4 wood for two stands and the 1x2 upright legs. These legs will be joined by a piece of heavy cardboard or better yet, corrugated plastic board scavenged from political election signage to serve as a backer for the targets---kind of a common design around here but I've noticed some are now using pvc pipe or even steel rebar.

I like using wood because I can often use wood scraps (the longest 2x4s only need to be 24") I'll give 'em a coat of amber shellac for moisture protection but that's about as much babying they'll ever see. .22 doesn't do too much damage to them either, barring a direct hit on the uprights (but that would have to be a very bad day of target practice!) Of course this is for stapled on paper targets, not the steel gongs or silhouettes which have become so popular

What kind of portable target stands do you like to build?
 
My buddy has a stand that he built on skids. He can pull it with his 4 wheeler or by hand to different distances that he finds with a rangefinder. Pretty cool.

I have wire framed "Rural internet" signs that were littering my property. Maybe a dozen of them. They work good for me. I don't like hitting them with my 15' Bush hog....so I collect them.
 
On my range I use a mix of cardboard and steel:

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Steel for speed, cardboard for accuracy.


For what you're describing (OP) I'd go with a simple wood (or PVC) IDPA style target stand and 1x2 furring strips. Mine are welded steel for lighter weight, but wood works and is cheap:

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OR

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I just expect the uprights to get shot up and 8' furring strips are cheap. Make your distances between uprights standard to the width of an IDPA Silhouette and you'll get additional versatility when it comes to setting up drills with silhouettes.

Chuck
 
Wire yard sign stands like realtors use work well for paper targets.
If you a taller stand, grade stakes are cheap and easy to find.
Steel targets are fun but a pain to transport. I have a bunch on my range for handgun targets.
Blades off a farm disc make a nice target and a cool sound when hit.
Would be pretty easy to make portable.
 
The target doesn't always return to direct center but it's usually close enough that you can still hit it

I really like your stand. Any particular reason you didn't go the 2 hole route when hanging with chain??

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I use single hole targets using this mount:

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Hung on a "T" post. Or for my permanent targets I use a piece of grader blade with an "L" bracket welded on and the plate mounted with a spring to allow movement.

Chuck
 
I really like your stand. Any particular reason you didn't go the 2 hole route when hanging with chain??

I didn't really think about how much it would rotate until I went and shot it... do the targets still ring with 2 chains? I think I'll have to modify mine.
 
I didn't really think about how much it would rotate until I went and shot it... do the targets still ring with 2 chains? I think I'll have to modify mine.
If you use a longer bolt and put a nut or two or three between the plate and the chain it will hang better and come back to center.Heavier chain will work better
 
John,

I have a couple wooden 2x4 target stands like you describe. After a couple years I realized that I only needed a 2x4 base under one of the legs. This way less gets torn up by errant birdshot. I like using these wooden stands for pistols up close. If I am shooting more than about 25 yds, I'd rather shoot the realtor/political yard signs and dump them.

For steel, I like using T-posts with hangars like this: https://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/t-post-hanger?a=1864893. I have a much more expensive folding AR500 target, but the T-post works just as well and costs much less. The posts will eventually wear out, but they can be purchased at Home Depo or Loews for a dollar or two on sale (roughly the same as a 2x4). The biggest expense to this method is a good pair of gloves and a nice sledgehammer.

If I have the ability to do so, I'd rather shoot at old tennis balls, cans or whatever else I can find in my trash heap. That way you get reactive moving targets.
 
I made a PVC stand like the above but with 1/2" pvc. 6x 16" pieces, 2 elbows, 2 tees and 2 4ft 1/2" (I think) dowel rods. The dowels do end up being more expensive than the furring. I used an 11" join piece as that matched my target width. Cost me 7.49 before taxes at one of those 2 bug box stores. I also used some small hair ties and 4 plastic clips (set of 8 or is it 6?) from dollar tree.

Unfortunately my 6yro son already managed to blast apart the 2 top clips the first time out.

Next political season I'll grab a bunch of those useless signs ppl post...

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Until I get a better set up I've been using this more than simple set up with my steel, the rounds deflect straight down into the ground and are enforced by 5 notched bolts hand heavy guaged chain that do nothing but deflect rounds from the guys who cant hit center,
The set up with the chain keeps the targets pitch consistent and return perfectly after a vicious beating.
simple simple unhook the chains remove the vertical legs and put in the truck
There's noshooting the steel unless your sighted in . IMG_0004.JPG
 
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Of course this is for stapled on paper targets, not the steel gongs or silhouettes which have become so popular

What kind of portable target stands do you like to build?

For paper targets this one takes up the smallest amount of room for the potential target area size. It uses cheap 1x2"'s, and can be any height, width and foot print (so you don't have to stake it down or make it heavy to keep it from moving).
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I have made hundreds if not thousands like this. 1x1 box tube and 1x2 box tube, moved in enough they can stack.
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Even built carts so one guy can move around stands, sticks, targets, stapler and tape for an entire match. Makes it less work to setup if you don't have to make numerous trips back to storage for everything.
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I use the following pieces of metal pipe to make my 10"-12" AR 550 gong target stands:

2x1/2". elbows, one screwed onto each end of crossbar.
2x1/2". tees, one each at one end of the legs.
1x24" 1/2" threaded pipe (crossbar)
2x48" 1/2" threaded pipes (vertical legs) The legs are screwed into elbows on crossbar making an upside down "U".
4x12" 1/2" threaded pipes (feet).

It costs a bit initially, but they last a long time if they aren't hit too many times. I also use 3/4" pipe for heavy silhouettes, and you can use taller or shorter legs as well.

For transport just unscrew the feet and they lie flat in the pickup bed.
 
I like political signs like the ones given out for people to put in their yard easy to come by after elections stick in ground then pick your letters to shoot at or tape on targets
 
These folks around here shoot holes in the road signs. I`m glad the OP started this, free wisdom,sharing of ideas on targets.
Thanks
 
I make mine out of 1 1/2" PVC pipe. Screw 1/4 inch fiber board to the upper frame to staple targets to. Leave the lower joints unglued and pin them with nails so they are collapsible. Shoot a hole in one, or it breaks, cut out the broken section, and put in a new elbow or connector, and reglue. Sandbag for windy days.
 
https://ibb.co/gjR5xv

For hanging steel I have gone away from CHAIN. A PITA, always getting hit, expensive, you have to cut it, etc. We went to conveyor belting a long time ago. Stands up FAR better.

This is a light weight, very portable set up for steel. 5/8" rebar, belting folded over with a gr 8 bolt. The two tubes that hold it all up are simply pieces of light steel tubing welded at an angle.

The target stands from rectangular tubing that JMORRIS is showing on his post...THE best target stands going. Light weight, designed like his , one can stack them. No more heavy wood contraptions, pvc that's brittle, etc. Buy once, cry once. Use them for YEARS,
 
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