I'm looking for a digital scale

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RCBS electronic scale #750 works great very accurate needs to warm up though but once set up stays very accurate
 
...and I figure with two of them I can crosscheck to ensure consistency and accuracy.

This reminds me of a story about a hiker who carried a "spare compass". He told that to another hiker, who asked, "Which one do you use if they don't agree with each other?"...apparently the minimum number of compasses, if you want to verify, is three. Odd man out loses.

So, with tongue firmly in cheek, I will ask, how do you use two scales to crosscheck?

Unless you have a scale that you always trust (i.e. a beam scale), it looks like you should have ordered two companions... :)
 
So, with tongue firmly in cheek, I will ask, how do you use two scales to crosscheck?

Calibrate both via a check weight of close to the target weight. Once they're calibrated, if both scales show an object weighs the same, then that's what it weighs.

If they show a difference, then the question of which is right is admittedly open to a degree of interpretation. If the difference is .1 gr for a 158gr SWC, that's the same weight--they're both right. If the difference is .1gr for a 3.2gr charge of Bullseye, then a recalibration is called for. Even if the two never manage to consistently agree precisely on that 3.2gr charge, I'm still confident that the charge is 3.2gr +/- a tenth of a grain. I don't load on the ragged edge, so I'm safe.

The way I would use this procedure is very simple. When I need to weigh something during the reloading process, I'll use the scale that's easiest to operate for the task at hand. I'll weigh the first couple of things I need to weigh, then verify those weights on the other scale.

As I go, every nth thing will get re-weighed on the other scale. As long as the two stay in agreement, I'll assume they're accurate. If they deviate, it's time to recalibrate both.

For my purposes, that's plenty good enough. I could use a beam scale, but to me, electronics are simply easier to use and accurate enough.
 
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There's some real nice RCBS & Ohaus beam scales on E-Bay right now with a Buy It Now and approx $10.00 shipping giving a total cost of $50 to $75. bucks.

Not bad pricing.
 
Something you might try to get your powder drop dialed in. With any load less than 10 gr I do a 10 drop check like this after I think the scales are set. Zero scales with pan on the scales. Take a drop and record the reading, do not pour it out leave it in the pan. Rezero the scales with the powder in it. Take another drop and record it, do not pour it out. Re Zero and do it again till you have 10 drops in the pan. Zero the scales again, now pour all of the powder out and set the pan on the scales. You should have a Negative reading = to 10x your drop. This will allow you to fine tune your dispenser to the light load. This procedure tells you 2 things. How consistant is your powder dispenser and over all accuracy. If any of your drops are > 0.1 gr you either have powder hanging or using a flake powder that prevents it from giving you a consistant drop. This is why I Quit using Unique I was getting this greater deviation. With 0.2gr = almost 10% swing in only one direction and you get it both directions not good.
 
I wonder how many millions of safe, reliable and accurate rounds have been made using nothing more than the Lee dippers?

If you are loading on a progressive machine you are not weighing every charge, you are relying on the repeatable accuracy of your powder dispenser. Some for us turret users and many single stage users.

For 'many' recreational reloaders .2gr accuracy is more than sufficient to our needs. In my case all my reloading is done with Win 231/HP-38 at low-mid range charges. My MTM DS1250 ($30) makes life easy for tired old eyeballs and matches up with charges measured on my Lee beam scale. I find I get good consistency using my Lee disks in my Pro dispenser on my Classic turret.

Am I a Bullseye or 1000 benchrest shooter? Nope, no competitions of any kind any more. If I were in that game I might need/want to spend a bunch on a nice uber-accurate digital or beam scale. I also have no issue with any causal reloader who can afford the very finest in all their hardware - good on ya' mate!
 
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I have a Lee Classic Turret/auto disk/charge bar setup. That charge bar has been pretty consistent with W231. I don't know how it will be with other powders like Unique. I like to check every fifth charge anyway.

I decided I'm going to buy a better beam scale. I'm watching several sales on ebay now.
 
Unique will vary by .2-.4+ gr in my Pro Auto Disk while W231/HP-38 will vary less than .1 gr charge-to-charge.

But for plinking/range practice loads, the .2-.3+ variation of Unique still produces fairly accurate shot groups.
 
Am I a Bullseye or 1000 benchrest shooter? Nope, no competitions of any kind any more. If I were in that game I might need/want to spend a bunch on a nice uber-accurate digital or beam scale. I also have no issue with any causal reloader who can afford the very finest in all their hardware - good on ya' mate!

Most of that crowd do not weigh their charges either but use a measure.

Do a quick google search regarding Lee Perfect Powder Measures and they are well liked among the benchrest crowd as is the Herrell's.
 
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While I agree with youtube hickok45's take on accuracy, I also submit that even for bullseye shooting the powder charge while a factor is not the primary one. IMHO a heck of a lot more impact on 'accuracy' derives from shooter input than the loading, caliber or even the pistol used.
 
I started out with the Lee scale and still have it (it almost got thrown out the garage window once :D). Yes, I did not like the "tediousness" of the scale and now recommend RCBS 5-0-5 ($80)/Dillon Eliminator ($55) as they are faster/easier to use than the Lee scale.

I have an Ohaus 10-10 now and like it very much but it will cost you around $130 for a new RCBS 10-10 (same scale).
This. Keep in mind that the Lee scales, while every bit as accurate and reliable as other brands, is a PITA to use. Don't judge all beam scales by that one.

A few things to keep in mind regarding digital scales: repeatability can be affected by battery level or "line noise" if you use 110v, measurements can wander over time, and I'm told that most need to warm up before you can trust them. And let's not forget that no one has a lifetime warranty on digital scales (at least in our price range).

Also there is a difference between an accuracy of .1 grains (plus or minus .1gr) and a resolution of .1 grains (one decimal place on the display). Be aware that a lot of cheap digitals actually have a resolution of .2gr, which is .01 grams, so make sure you examine the description well. The display has one decimal place but every measurement ends in .0 .2 .4 .6 or .8

Very few hobbies require the precision that reloaders do so sale manufacturers don't have much incentive to push for .1gr accuracy. Their biggest market is probably weighing food and postage. People who weigh pharmaceuticals and diamonds use expensive scales because they can't afford not to.

-StaTiK-

Edited to add: Finally found the link: Amazing accurate cheap digital. This guy bought a $6.99 scale off ebay and it wound up being very accurate (tested with a $1500 scale).
 
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Being the OP, I guess I'll make a final update to this thread. I gave up on the idea of a usable and reasonably priced digital scale.

I looked at several new beam scales on the web, and decided I could live with one from any of the major reloader brands. The local wallyworld had an RCBS 502, so I bought it.

It's as accurate as the Lee, and not nearly the headache to use. It's what I was looking for.
 
I have one of this Balanza_Digital_N_3.jpg

... it has a resolution of 0.02 grains,i dont know exactly the accuracy of it but one day i wanted to check and loaded some rounds of 9mm luger (124 gr plated bullets (really cheap stuff ) not really good in quality, PMC brass (cleaned with ss media) and Wolf SPP ... with 4.5 grains of W231 ) using the scale to let them exactly at 4.50 grains acording to my scale i runned to my range and tested the velocity ... the SD was of 2 fps and the extreme spread was of 6 fps ... the next weekend i decide to load some 147 grainers for a buddy using the same method and only Speer cases and the SD was of 3 fps and Extreme spread was of 10 fps ... that was almoust 1 year ago so maybe now it has lost some accuracy but so far so good ... my firearms didnt explote :)

I cant remember the name right now but if you are interested i can search the box ;)

NOTE : I used a Single stage
 
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Something you might try to get your powder drop dialed in. With any load less than 10 gr I do a 10 drop check like this after I think the scales are set. Zero scales with pan on the scales. Take a drop and record the reading, do not pour it out leave it in the pan. Rezero the scales with the powder in it. Take another drop and record it, do not pour it out. Re Zero and do it again till you have 10 drops in the pan. Zero the scales again, now pour all of the powder out and set the pan on the scales. You should have a Negative reading = to 10x your drop. This will allow you to fine tune your dispenser to the light load. This procedure tells you 2 things. How consistant is your powder dispenser and over all accuracy. If any of your drops are > 0.1 gr you either have powder hanging or using a flake powder that prevents it from giving you a consistant drop. This is why I Quit using Unique I was getting this greater deviation. With 0.2gr = almost 10% swing in only one direction and you get it both directions not good.
Thanks for the tip on the 10 drop check. I do it a little differently but your method seams really nice. I will give it a try.
 
I rad somewhere that the bench shooting competitors use electronic scales made by AccuLab.
When I looked at the price, I think it is probably true.

http://acculab.balances.com/

Search for "reloading" in that website above and you should get back a list of them. The higher end ones are a couple of $thousands.

Looks like the parent company has shut down AccuLab production due to the recent market downturn since 2011. If you can find any left, consider yourself lucky.
 
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