I'm not going to EAT it.

[Gordon]

Lesseee: Sno Seal makes a holster sticky and gooey prolly aids retension though), Armorall cleaner cleans dirty leather well without the fuss of Lexol cleaner and then conditioner(too soft but works on belts) . I wouldn't want any oil that turns rancid either. Some dry old holsters need some Lexol conditioner type of oiling. The Silicone treatments work well on clean leather and keep them from softening around water. High quality shoe polish of the appropriate color is hard to beat but can soften in desert temps. Sharkskin of course is largely unaffected by water. Capt Hardy of Beverly Hills Calif made some of the best holsters I've seen. I have a Hardy-Cooper shoulder rig for 1911's and a belt rig for 6" N frames and one for 4 3/4" SAA 's . I wear them on old Lawrence belts. I haven't seen an old holster earlier than 1880's I liked yet.

 

[PCRCCW]

As a maker of gun leather products.....Id recommend the following and Im not the only one doing it......for a couple of reasons. This is for molded style holsters.......
Cowboy holster makers have a slightly different take on things.....

Silicone......dont use it. Unless its in its pure form, it "outgases" and this will dry your leather out over time. Many people think its great to use but silicone these days, even when it says its "PURE FDA" bla bla bla still can have a certain amount of harmful garbage in it and be called pure according to the Gobmint.

Any oil based products............NOT! Dont do it. They run the risk of softening the leather over time, even in slight amounts and will take your retention away.

What to use is Saddle soap in very small qty's for a trashed/sweatsoaked leather to clean it up. For anything else......a very lightly damp cloth and just clean it up with it.

You can use good leather dressings for maintenance.....polishes, creams etc..........but do so in moderation and only as needed.

Shoot well.