Improving an Existing Safe

[Yo Mama]

I was wondering if there is any way to beef up security and fire protection on a cheaper safe?

 

[CoRoMo]

I imagine that security (reinforcement) can be improved in a number of ways, but it might affect the aesthetics of your safe. How good are you at welding?

For fire protection, location is key. I don't know of a way to improve a safe's fire strength, but the area where it is placed can be infinitely improved in regards to fire protection.

 

[Yo Mama]

I care less about aesthetics than security. What do you recommend to weld?

 

[drgrenthum]

sure you could enclosed a cheaper safe in a lockable box consisting of drywall and cement backer boards drilled into metal framing studs. However, with the time and costs associated with doing something like that it might be easier to just get a beyyerr safe from the get go.

Better question is why would you need to do beef up a cheap safe? Are you getting it for free?

 

[Yo Mama]

Just have always had a "security cabinate". Not much more than a few pieces of metal keeping everything safe. I just thought it's time to upgrade somehow. We have an alarm, and a dog as well.

 

[CoRoMo]

With the security cabinet, the metal is quite thin, so welding might be out of the question or at least pointless. You could always add a few latches along the door like the one below.


Use the beefier ones. Then again, a cabinet with a lot of these latches and padlocks along the door will surely tell a thief where you are keeping your valuables.

 

[a1abdj]

It is less expensive, and more reliable, to purchase the proper container.

 

[Yo Mama]

That's what I'm starting to think. Checking Craigslist, and a few other places it looks like 500 can be a big step up.

 

[kanook]

bass pro has a sale on a red head safe 59x28x22 for $650. looks decent

 

[deadhawg]

While I know it won't turn my metal box into a real safe, I welded up an angle iron frame around the front and sides and added two heavy bars across the front of my "safe". The bars in front lock in place with heavy duty padlocks and cover up the two key locks in the door. I know the additions won't stop a determined thief, but will slow them down a little. The box is also bolted to the floor and wall in the corner of a closet where it will be hard to get much leverage while prying.
Of course, I had access to some free angle iron and flat bar scraps and did the welding myself, so it only cost my time. It wouldn't be worth buying the steel and paying somebody to do it for you.

I'm saving up for a "real" safe though.

 

[jasper275]

I've always thought this would be a great way to cheaply turn a 16 gauge safe into a formidible opponent:

Have sheets of expanded metal tack welded to the sides of the safe. Can affix easily (assuming you have access to a welder) and would need to be cut through to reach the thinner skin of the safe. Also, would not add as much weight as solid metal.

 

[BHP FAN]

That's creative.The easiest things to do are to bolt the cabinet to the floor,add corner reinforceing plates,[the screw on type for wooden boxes,the screw slots can be filled with JB Weld] and a good strong hasp and lock at the top,the point most thieves insert their crowbar,done.

 

[moooose102]

if you have a cheap, cheap "gun safe", the problem is the chincy locks. if you buy a middle of the road gun safe, the metal is thicker, meaning it will not open to a prybar, the "locking bolts" are much beefier, but the locking mechanism is still kind of cheap. making it the weak link in the chain. you have to get into really good safes to defeat 90+% of the theives out there. and even then, there is always the small percent that will have the knowledge of how to get in. there is no such thing as a "burgalar peoof safe. in the long run, the best "insurance" is a good insurance policy. keep it in force, make sure it is adequet, make sure every gun is listed, and make sure the deductible is small. now, if you have cubic dollars, and you can afford to build your own fort knox, more power to you. but that is not in the reach of 90% of us.

 

[22LRFan]

Before you add more locks to your setup, you should remember that's another lock keeping you from your firearms in a home defense situation.

If it doesn't bother you and you want to add more locks I would recommend you choose a non-Master brand lock. I'm not trying to bash the company, but I got into lockpicking a year ago. If you hop on YouTube you can see how easy Master locks are to pick.

You're better off picking up an obscure, half-rusted lock at a yard sale that still works.

Oh snap I fell off my soap box.

 

[jon_in_wv]

A buddy of mine has a reinforced concrete room in his basement that had an actual bank vault door on it. I loved it. I WILL have a room like that one day.

 

[Yo Mama]

deadhawg, I'd love a picture of what your describing.

 

[Ardillakilla]

I've opened "quality" padlocks with a V-shaped shim cut out of a soda can. It's not hard to do and is very quick.

 

[catspa]

5/8" type "X" drywall is a common material used in the construction of fire resistant assemblies in houses and commercial buildings. I'd feel pretty good about 2 layers of it cut to fit tight inside the safe. Only thing is, the paper face might get scuffed up after a while, so you may want a layer of doorskin or paneling inside that.

A friend of mine also has a concrete room in his basement, and we airtighted the lid with scrap drywall I took off a job.

Or if you can find some old asbestos board - I've used that to heat shield small forges. Blacksmith supply places also carry heat blanket - the one I got to line my woodstove stack was rated to over 2000 degrees.

Parker

 

[thesolidus]

Make it hard to get at. If i cant get a tool at it because of closet space or obstructions it makes it harder to crack.

I still think the refrigerator has merit.
Old fridges never seem to die. Flood, fire or quake they hold up.
Gut the inside of a dead fridge (free is good) and make a pocket big enough for your safe. (Just make sure you can open the safe door all the way!)
Then put a latch and lock on the door. Hang a keyring with 100 old keys next to it (none of which should fit!) Put a case of beer on top.

Passerby think you are storing the beer, kids can't get in, and no-one can cart the whole thing off without a forklift! (Tough when it's time to move though...) And in a fire the beer will pop and spray everywhere, useless in firefighting but mighty funny!

Plus... no one will get inside the fridge to try to break into your safe. It'll be too darn cold! LOL...

 

[fireman 9731]

yep... just hide it in an old fridge!

 

[Logan5]

If your RSC came bolted to steel forklift skids, you could make a plywood box around them, and pour it full of concrete. Tuck it into a corner before you do that too.

 

[deadhawg]

deadhawg, I'd love a picture of what your describing

.
Here's a pic. The angle iron around the front and sides is 1/4"X 1-1/2", the flat bars across the front are 1/4" X 2". The flat bars cover up the tubular key locks in the door. Not visible is some 1/2" square bar stock added to the inside edges of the door for stiffening.

Again, I know it won't turn my steel box into a real safe, but I had access to free steel, an arc welder and the time, so why not add a little more protection until I can get a real safe. Does nothing for fire protection though.

As for concerns that added locks could slow down access in an emergency, I have a separate quick access handgun safe for that.

 

[H2O MAN]

jon_in_wv A buddy of mine has a reinforced concrete room in his basement that had an actual bank vault door on it.
I loved it. I WILL have a room like that one day.

The bulk of my ammo and all of my NIB Poly Tech M14s are kept in a 2nd floor, concrete and steel bank vault.
More of my collection will move there soon and the rest will be in a small safe at a different location.

 

[danprkr]

Some good advice, but I have NEVER regretted my 900 safe. Well, except at moving time, but I have a buddy that has the equipment to move heavy items so even that isn't hideous.

 

[logical]

I think unless you are going to go all out with a real security safe, your best bet is to hide it.....behind a big bookshelf or whatever works for you.

Adding 10 standard padlocks would add about 20 seconds to the time ittakes to get into a cheap safe.