Info needed on the old PD issued Beretta 96D

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Dave Baird

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Merry Christmas, Fellas! My LGS had one of the Indiana (?) state police Beretta 96D's in the MP3 finish. It looked pretty cool but was sold before I could finish my research on it. Clerk said they might be getting another one in, so I am continuing my work.

I have read where the 96D is just a 92 with a .40 barrel. Therefore, the locking lug, recoil spring and alloy frame takes a beating. If I get one, I know to look for one of the kits from Beretta USA which includes the lug and spring. I will look closely at the barrel for rings. But, what do I look for on the frame and where do I look on the frame? If this all works-out, does anyone sell a recoil buffer that would save the frame from further damage?

I know either an H&K USP40C (I have one) or a Glock 23 are better guns. But, I liked the look of that LE veteran! I just want to know what to look for so I don't get a dud.

Thank you,
Dave
 
Look at the lug cuts in the slide

DAVE,

I used to carry a 96D Brigadier which is a 96D with a reinforced slide. If you find one of the slides and have it fitted, you will have a more accurate and powerful gun than the GLOCK or H&K in my opinion.
I have owned or carried a GLOCK 22 and H&K P-2000 and neither is as accurate as the BERETTA!

On the last 96D I carried, the slide started to slow down. This was weird and I linked it to the locking lugs cuts in the slide. Instead of being squared off, they were getting rounded. One of the Firearms Instructors with my agency told me he had the same problem.

The BERETTA 92 was designed around the 9m.m. round and when they brought out the .40 S&W, it was still okay, if standard velocity 180 grain rounds were used.
The problem started with the regular guns shooting the high velocity rounds. My agency tested several .40 caliber pistols and ALL BROKE when using the 155 grain at 1200 feet per second load we wanted.
Upgraded guns were submitted and the only two to pass were the BERETTA 96D Brigadier and SIG 229.

We used the 96D for a decade and then went to the H&K P2000. I still have my 96D and think it is as powerful as defense gun as I can use. It is certainly the most accurate that I would carry.

Good luck,
Jim
 
Thanks fellas, you're very kind! In a way, I guess it is a crap shoot buying one of these older designs especially if hotter loads could cause catastrophic failure AND, I have no way of knowing if any or how many hot rounds would have been fired. Geez, I still like the gun though.

JTQ thanks for the link. I watched the whole thing. I'll contact those fellas if they don't post soon. I would like to know what to look out for such as the rounded cuts on the slide as Jim mentions.

And, thank you for your service, Jim! I'd love to have one of the later LE Brigadiers but the dealer said he thinks the next one is going to be a 92 like the one I saw originally.

Dave Hey, the Steelers are winning!!!:what:
 
Could anyone tell me if this is one of the newer locking blocks that were made in the early 90's to replace the original 90 degree ones that were breaking? The link provided that shows the difference won't open for me. So, I just took a shot of my LB and thought I would post it.

Thanks, Dave
 

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Could anyone tell me if this is one of the newer locking blocks that were made in the early 90's to replace the original 90 degree ones that were breaking?
It's pretty hard to tell unless you show us the ears of the locking-block,

The 90 degrees that people are referring to is the junction between the ears, that lock into the recesses in the slide, and the body of the locking block.

I got my 96 used and I doubt it even had 1000 rounds through it...it was part of a trade of a car. I read about the additional pressures putting additional stress on the locking block, but I was only shooting 180gr JHPs through mine.

I attended a class with Ernie Langdon and he replaced the locking block when he tuned the trigger. He recommended a replacement every 5k rounds, just out of caution...what is nice is that they aren't very expensive and they are just a drop-in part.

If I were looking at shooting a bit more, 24k rounds/year, or a lot of hot 135gr loadings, I'd consider a reinforced slide model like the Elite II. Mine is fine and doesn't show any undue wear.

If I were buying a LE trade-in 96, I'd change the springs and locking block as a matter of course...it is just cheap insurance. I'd also just buy the 10 round mags, the 11 round ones aren't worth the extra cost
 
Thank you for your reply. I don't have it in hand yet. I asked the seller to send a couple pics. Any of these any more help?
 

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What you want is the Locking Block on the right

abc001.jpg


I'd budget for a Locking Block Kit...they're only $37 at Brownells

92lokingblock1.jpg
 
Thank you! I ordered the same one from Midwest Gun Parts. It says they will work on a 96. Would that include a 96D? I suppose so, but thought I should ask. The DA-only should have nothing to do with the locking block?
 
Thank you very much!!:D

While I have your attention, what are your thoughts on the recoil reducing guide rod/recoil spring? Worth the money $80? Seems kinda high to me, but, I know little about the large Berettas.
 
While some people like them, I personally don't. They might have some effect, but it has less effect than correct technique...if the goal is fast followup shots

Also I've found that recoil reducing rods/springs/dampers/combo assemblies have an off putting effect on the felt recoil that I've found disturbing. But, that's just me...I don't like the way the H&K USP or the rotating barrel Berettas feel either. I can shoot my 96 faster and more accurately than either of those.

My 96 is what saved me from dismissing the .40 all together. In side-by-side comparisons, it was much more accurate that a SIG 226 & 229, Glock G22, and H&K USP.
 
I was told to get a trigger return spring as a spare. Is that the same as the trigger spring???
 
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