rem1858
Member
Good luck in your endeavors.
Clarence
Clarence
Project: bullseye beretta 9x pistol.
- Thread starter scythefwd
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scythefwd
Member
In all honesty, I'll probably want a match barrel in the end.. but might as well experiment with the cheap option before destroying the expensive one. Match barrels are starting at 200, then threading, locking block. You're talking a 300 dollar barrel before all is said and done. If I need a threading that isn't normal.. I'm running a larger financial risk doing it to a match barrel, especially if my idea is untested. The stock barrel I'm getting for 80 includes a locking block, with threading (first try.. may have to redesign) it'll be in the neighborhood of 150, with custom thread protector.. probably in the neighborhood of 225. I'm still up on the match barrel price wise, and will have two reusable parts when I'm done, and a verified or disproven solution.
scythefwd
Member
got an idea for the safety...
If I push the action bar down a couple millimeters, the trigger disconnects. If I can thread a bar, through the frame, and have it do that.. I should be able to get a one sided safety, using the action bar itself as the spring loaded detent (similar how the plunger works on the safety of a 1911). Basically, its a lever hooked to a rod through the frame (have to avoid the mag somehow.. placement is key here), terminating at the other in with a grooved elipsis. The elipsis routes the action bar through the grove, the action bar spring keeps it there. Have the safe part of the elipsis ground with a plateau, and the action bar will hold it in safe.. can be done the same with the fire position. Probably wont need to do any relief cuts in the grips/slide.
If I push the action bar down a couple millimeters, the trigger disconnects. If I can thread a bar, through the frame, and have it do that.. I should be able to get a one sided safety, using the action bar itself as the spring loaded detent (similar how the plunger works on the safety of a 1911). Basically, its a lever hooked to a rod through the frame (have to avoid the mag somehow.. placement is key here), terminating at the other in with a grooved elipsis. The elipsis routes the action bar through the grove, the action bar spring keeps it there. Have the safe part of the elipsis ground with a plateau, and the action bar will hold it in safe.. can be done the same with the fire position. Probably wont need to do any relief cuts in the grips/slide.
scythefwd
Member
looking at it.. I might be able to replace the hammer retention pin.. looks like maybe only need to add one hole to the frame and it should be a low stress part...
SharpsDressedMan
member
Why not buy a used first gen Beretta 92 that has the frame mounted safety? there are several on gunbroker right now. Then use the original slide, or get a 92D slide, or 92D Brigadier slide, which is reinforced, and has dovetailed front and rear. For all the parts you intend to swap out, to include these changes might save some $$$ on parts or smithing.
scythefwd
Member
because I already have the 96?
I'd be swapping springs no matter what. A new slide would run more than just getting a new barrel, threaded, and custom thread protector.. and then I'd still have to thread the barrel that came with the gun and get the protector.
I'd be swapping springs no matter what. A new slide would run more than just getting a new barrel, threaded, and custom thread protector.. and then I'd still have to thread the barrel that came with the gun and get the protector.
SharpsDressedMan
member
The price for the early 92 is under $400. You will end up paying how much just to do the rail inserts? Plus or minus $400 will be small change for the spare parts, and "already-converted-frame" of the 1st gen 92. Hell, sell off the slide & barrel assembly, and the frame would be closer to $200.
scythefwd
Member
It's still 200 more than I need to spend. As I stated earlier in the thread.. I might not do the safety and the rails at all. This is probably going to end up being a range gun anyways, so no real need for an external safety. I could just go and do all of this stuff to a taurus pt99 I've got.. makes no sense to me to buy another gun for spare parts when I have two capable candidates right here.
scythefwd
Member
mulligan barrel in today. Since it was designed to work on a 9mm slide vs. a 40 slide.. I'm having it checked out by an armorer who has the go/no gauge and headspace gauges for 9mm to make sure I'm not shooting a time bomb.
scythefwd
Member
Got stiffer recoil spring in route (16 lbs vs. 14)
Got a lighter hammer spring (17 vs. 18 stock)
got a reduced power triger conversion unit from wolff in route as well.
Got a lighter hammer spring (17 vs. 18 stock)
got a reduced power triger conversion unit from wolff in route as well.
scythefwd
Member
Stiffer spring in. Feels better, especially if I want to run 40 out of it. No powder puff loads with this one in.
Hammer spring also in, increased trigger pull. It takes less to compress the spring completely, but the spring is longer, so there is more preload on the spring, resulting in a heavier trigger. Since they are so cheap, I'll slow cut it down till I'm happy with it.. I have the stock D spring as a backup.
Conversion unit for the trigger spring drops right in, nice and smooth, no grittyness. Looks like it will be more reliable than the normal trigger return spring, and it is slightly lighter.
Pics of the conversion spring installed will be forthcoming.. cant get to the pics atm.
Hammer spring also in, increased trigger pull. It takes less to compress the spring completely, but the spring is longer, so there is more preload on the spring, resulting in a heavier trigger. Since they are so cheap, I'll slow cut it down till I'm happy with it.. I have the stock D spring as a backup.
Conversion unit for the trigger spring drops right in, nice and smooth, no grittyness. Looks like it will be more reliable than the normal trigger return spring, and it is slightly lighter.
Pics of the conversion spring installed will be forthcoming.. cant get to the pics atm.
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