Info on Lee FCD

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I wonder about the specs on the handloads.com website. Their dimensions coincide with my Lyman CBH book spot on. Maybe because it's a maximum dimension, not minimum? Or is that chamber dimensions?
Measurements are the maximum for a loaded round of ammo. IMO. Here are more drawings. http://www.stevespages.com/page8d.htm Not all are correct, use more than 1 reference as you did.
 
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Gimme a break snuffy. I have detailed it over and over here, including its merits.

I don't need your procedures explained. But maybe someone who's just starting out could use the help. I guess they'll have to spend some time looking at your past threads to find out.

As someone said, I and others loaded a bunch before lee came out with the FCD. Most were very accurate loads for shooting at 200 meters during silly wet (silhouette), matches with a 10.5 inch 44 SBH mag revolver, and a couple of contenders. Others were wildcat 7 X 47 thunder jet loads for the unlimited class, fired in a heavily modified XP-100.

You certainly can get functional ammo without the FCD. You can also crimp and seat at the same time in the same die, IF your brass is all trimmed to the same length. Most don't bother trimming handgun brass, but for long range work it's essential.
 
I agree with all the major contributors of this post and thank you for your research and effort.

The Lee FCD is designed to provide an optional way to crimp.

It is not designed as a supplementary sizing die-(FCSD?).
EDIT: *Ooops, see my next post with Lee quote.


It's the reloaders responsibilty to understand the above and choose to use or not use this die.
 
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If the die set has the FCD, I use it according to the directions. It does a great job on my .45acp loads.. If the post sizing ring catches very hard, i know there is something wrong.
 
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"Do I have to purchase a separate crimp die if I want to separately seat the bullet and crimp in either of these calibers?"

No, it is all in the adjustment, first seat the bullet by raising the die to avoid crimping, after seating the bullets raise the seater plug then lower the die for crimping, when seating and crimping seat A bullet to proper height first then raise the seater plug and adjust the die to crimp, secure the die then lower the seater plug until it contacts the bullet, then secure the lock nut? for the seater plug this allows for seating and crimping at the same time.

F. Guffey
 
"Do I have to purchase a separate crimp die if I want to separately seat the bullet and crimp in either of these calibers?"

No, it is all in the adjustment, first seat the bullet by raising the die to avoid crimping, after seating the bullets raise the seater plug then lower the die for crimping, when seating and crimping seat A bullet to proper height first then raise the seater plug and adjust the die to crimp, secure the die then lower the seater plug until it contacts the bullet, then secure the lock nut? for the seater plug this allows for seating and crimping at the same time.

F. Guffey

Would be OK for a single stage but defeats the purpose of the classic turret or progressive.

You don't have to use the FCD, Lee also sells a standard crimp die or you could buy a second seater die and set it up just to crimp. I use the FCD for all my calibers. If it post sizes a round I inspect it and/or pull it apart to reuse what components I can. I don't use the FCD to fix ammo I use it to crimp and as a case gage. I'm lazy and don't want to sit there and run every round through a case gage after it's loaded. I must have been lucky so far. I have only had two rounds get post sized out of thousands loaded, FMJ and lead.
 
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FWIW: Staight wall/tapered cases only require a very 'light ' crimp, so below may mean nothing for 9x19, 40cal or .45acp. The last sentence is interesting though.

Lee Modern Reloading, Pistol Loading Sect.:

The single operation in the reloading process that damages the most ammunition is the crimp operation. Attempting to crimp too much either buckles the case or forms a slight bulge just behind the crimp. Either way the round will not chamber.

The Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die overcomes these problems. It cannot bulge the case and it post sizes the case just in case an oversize bullet or thick case wall makes the cartridge over maximum cartridge size. It requires an extra operation. If you are the Lee Load-Master or four hole Turret Press, it's no problem, because there is a station for the Factory Crimp Die. This die allows unlimited crimp with never a chance of a bulged case because it will be ironed out as it is extracted. The carbide sizer is slightly under under minimum chamber dimension, so the rounds will fit any standard chamber, but will not squeeze the bullet within the case.
 
The bullet moves such a tiny amount while a light taper crimp is being applied that there is no reason to crimp in a fourth step unless you just want to. Unless your dies are set up wrong, or you are applying way to much crimp, seating and crimping 9MM, .40 S&W, or .45 ACP in one step won't hurt a thing.

Is it easier to set up seating and crimping seperately? Sure. Is it hard to set up seating and crimping in the same step for those calibers? No. Do it any way you want, just don't think you cannot seat and crimp those calibers, and similar ones, in one step. :)
 
FWIW: Staight wall/tapered cases only require a very 'light ' crimp, so below may mean nothing for 9x19, 40cal or .45acp.

I think Lee came out with the FCD first for straight wall cases and they work very well. Hornady now has what they call "Taper Crimp die", which is pretty much the same..
What can occur, if you do not crimp, roll or FCD, in a semi-auto is the possibility of the bullet getting knocked back into the case and compressing the load when loading the next round.
 
What can occur, if you do not crimp, roll or FCD, in a semi-auto is the possibility of the bullet getting knocked back into the case and compressing the load when loading the next round.

Again. Neck tension holds the bullet from moving back in the case in auto rounds like 9MM & .45 ACP. The crimp does not. A slight taper crimp from whatever crimp die you choose will not & can not make up for poor neck tension.

The FCD can in some instances actual hurt neck tension which would make bullet set back more likely. The lead in bullets simply will not spring back as much as the brass, losing some neck tension.
 
Again. Neck tension holds the bullet from moving back in the case in auto rounds like 9MM & .45 ACP. The crimp does not. A slight taper crimp from whatever crimp die you choose will not & can not make up for poor neck tension.

I agree. The crimp in a straight case takes the bell out and back to your desired diameter at the mouth. I use as little bell as possible and still be able to load smoothly. My jacketed 9mm is taper crimped to .377/8, and the bullet seater /crimper does that.

The FCD doesn't seem to effect that case mouth dimension in my set-up.

It does seem to engage the case slightly much closer to the base on many rounds. I've triple checked my Lee full length sizing/deprimer die set-up, but the FCD still engages many of the cases down low. Maybe that's just that 'intentional' undersizing of the ring or some mistake I'm intentionally making out of ignorance.

I just finished reloading my last 850 rounds and getting ready to develop another load for a new-to-me bullet.

With almost 6000 rds through the press using two powders and three different jacketed bullets, I've never had a shooting problem (after load development) related to sizing, feed, extraction, setback or accuracy needed for USPSA and AASA steel/'non-precision' targets inside 25 yards. I've shot at 50 yds and hit, but grouping was not an accurate description. At 50 yds, I know I'm the major problem.

I really don't believe this die does anything very significant in my case. It may be a sanity check.
 
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