Inheriting a Colt Python - What do I need to know?

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Ingenium

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I'm familiar with firearms but do not currently own a single one for various reasons. A family member is gifting me his old service revolver, a .357 Colt Python. I don't have specifics on it yet (length, round count, finish) but should receive it in the next week or two.

I've searched THR and read a bit about the Python and I'm not looking for this to be a superiority thread as to whether this is better than a model 27...I'm getting a Python, it's not a choice so don't go there :)

What do I need to know about this particular firearm?
Maintenance quirks? Things to check and lookout for?
Were all Pythons .357 Mag or another .357 load?

Any insight from the informed folk would be greatly appreciated.
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There are a few things you can always check by yourself when you look at a used revolver. Cock the hammer, and try to turn the cylinder with your fingers. It shoudln't move at all. Take a pencil with a fresh eraser with you. Point the barrel at the ceiling, and slide the pencil eraser-first down the barrel. pull the trigger, letting the firing pin zap the top of the eraser. It should have a healthy jump out of the barrel.

Most Pythons are going to be more than ten years old, it's not a bad idea to have a smith look at the springs and lockwork, this is considered routine maintenence.

It is chambered in .357 Magnum, but you can also shoot .38 Specials through it. Same cartridge, a little bit shorter. But if you shoot a lot of them, you will want to brush out the chambers with a brush, to make sure that you don't start building up rings that will stop the full-length .357 from sliding in easily.

I really want one day, the double action on those is smooth as glass.
 
I'm sure some of the experts will chime in, but it's a great revolver. I've been trying to buy one for months now. Most of the info I found was on colt forum. Good luck with it.
 
Hello friends and neighbors // Before you put it someone elses hands ask them, "please do not flip the cylinder closed like in the movies".

A friends son did this with my 1961 Python,**totally my fault,poor management and a lesson learned.

In the late 50s early 60s the best Smiths working at Colt made the Python.
After that more and more Smiths worked on them each year.
The early ones bring a premium. You can date yours at Proof House .com.

Nice to know the history of a firearm, I envy you that part.
I'd ask to know as much as possible about the Python, from day one till now, especially a relatives daily carry.

Love to know the history of a few of my guns.

Congrats on owning one of the finest Colts made.

** .357 will be stamped on the barrel ... There was a .38 special only, that would be a very nice premium.
 
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You may want to check out the Colt Forum for information on the Python. There are many members there who are quite versed in the Python. While I have 2 Pythons I am far from an expert. Some members of the Colt Forum are members here so they will probably be in the answer questions later.
 
Enjoy them! Hopefully in the Royal Blue finish.

Here is a teaser for you:

4" with Nill grips:
Python-4-XL.jpg


6" with factory grips:
6-Pythoni-XL.jpg
 
If your new Python comes with the original Colt Target grips, HOLD ON TO THEM.
The grips alone are selling for over $200 these days,

Here's my instructions on how to check the old Colt action for correct timing:

To check Colt timing:

BOLT RETRACTION AND "SNAP BACK".
Open the cylinder and look at the small "lug" in the bottom of the cylinder window. This is the cylinder locking bolt.
Cock the hammer, and watch as the bolt retracts into the frame and pops back out.
The bolt MUST begin to retract THE INSTANT the hammer begins to move.
There MUST be NO (ZERO) hammer movement possible before the bolt starts to retract.
The bolt should retract smoothly with no hesitation until it's fully retracted, then it must pop back out with a clean "snap".
There should be no hesitation, and no amount of "creeping" back out.

CYLINDER UNLOCKING.
Close the cylinder.
Use your left thumb or fore finger to again cock the hammer, closely watching the cylinder bolt as you SLOWLY cock the hammer.
As the hammer comes back, the bolt will retract away from the cylinder.
The bolt must retract far enough to unlock the cylinder BEFORE the cylinder begins to rotate.
If the bolt is still slightly engaged with the cylinder lock notch, the cylinder will be attempting to turn while still partially locked.
This produces a "catch" or "hard spot" in the trigger pull and will damage both the bolt and the cylinder lock notches.
This often appears as metal "pulled out" of the lock notches, with rounded off and burred notches.

BOLT DROP TIMING.
Continue to cock the hammer, LIGHTLY laying your right index finger on the cylinder just enough to prevent "free wheeling".
Watch for the bolt to drop back onto the cylinder. WHERE the bolt drops is CRITICAL.
The bolt MUST drop onto the leade or ramp in front of the actual cylinder notch.
If the bolt drops too soon, (in front of the notch ramp), it will mar the finish of the cylinder.
The bolt should drop into “about” the middle of the ramp.
If the bolt drops late, (farther toward the actual locking notch) the revolver may display "cylinder throw-by".
In this condition, during double action shooting the cylinder may rotate PAST the locking notch, and fire in an unlocked condition.
It's the nature of the Colt action, that a hesitant or jerky trigger pull by the user can induce throw-by in even a properly tuned Colt.
The Colt trigger should be pulled with a smooth, even pull, with no sudden jerks at the beginning.

CYLINDER LOCKUP.
Continue to pull the hammer back and both watch and listen for the bolt to drop into the cylinder lock notch.
The bolt must drop into the actual lock notch before or just as the hammer reaches full cock.
The most common Colt mis-time situation is the hammer cocks before the bolt drops into the lock notch. (Hammer is cocked, but cylinder isn't locked).
In this condition, with the hammer fully cocked, you can push the cylinder slightly, and you will hear the "CLICK" as the bolt drops into lock.
In my experience, most Colt's leave the factory with the bolt dropping a little late into the leade, but usually wear in to correct timing.
If the bolt drops onto the cylinder early, no real problem, but there will be extra finish wear.
If the bolt drops late (closer to the lock notch) the cylinder may "throw by" or rotate too far in double action and this can cause off-center primer hits and firing while unlocked.

Each of these checks should be done on EACH chamber. All of these checks are better done individually. In other words, do the bolt retraction check on all six chambers, then do the bolt drop test, and so on.

A properly tuned Colt will:
Have a smoothly functioning bolt with no sticky or hesitant movement.

Unlock before the cylinder begins to turn.

The bolt will drop onto the middle of the ramp.

The bolt will drop into the lock notch just before or as the hammer reaches full cock.

Have a smooth trigger pull, which does "stack" or get heavier as the trigger is pulled.

With the trigger pulled AND held back there should be zero rotational movement of the cylinder. It should lock up tightly in the famous Colt Bank Vault Lockup.
 
What do you need to know? You are one lucky son of a gun, that's what you need to know.
 
You are lucky indeed. I was looking at a SS Python a few weeks ago at a gun shop. The price was $2,799. You may want to see what it is worth and sell it. Get a couple nice guns and have money left over. I would hang on to it but I'm a gun guy and appreciate what a Python is. You may not care as much. Good luck with it!
 
You will hear this rant all the time "Sell it, get more guns with the money." Don't be in any hurry to sell it, again as was told to you earlier, they aren't made anymore! You've already heard from one gent who said he'd seen a SS one at a gun shop for $2799, they don't always run this high, but you won't find them for what they originally cost new either! Hold onto this gift, you've definitely have something others are wanting, but either can't find, or don't want to spend the cash!
 
Not much to add, but on my old 6" blue model (sadly, gone) the screw just below the cylinder backed out and I didn't notice. When I opened the cylinder (and rotated) it left a nice scratch quite a way around the cylinder.

It was new at the time, so the shop sent it back to Colt and they re-blued the cylinder for free.

Might want to check that screw!?
 
What do I need to know?
The most important thing you need to know is:

Do Not take it apart in little pieces with a junk drawer screwdriver to "clean" it as soon as you get it!!

More fine Colts have been ruined by amateur gunsmiths taking them apart then have been ruined by neglect.

rc
 
I wouldnt even shoot it. If it comes in the retail box store it in a cool dry area and dont loose it. I have had a handful of pythons in royal blue and I see bluing thinned out at the muzzle from being set down muzzle first so watch that. I also see thinned bluing on the back strap from sweaty palms, wipe it with a very small amount of oil but dont soak the grips. NEVER NEVER NEVER leave it in a holster for storage. I have seen too many classic revolvers trashed from chemical tanned leather holster storage. A 97% Python with no box is fetching $1500 plus pretty easy these days and the first thing collectors look at is the turn line. Buy a surrogate Ruger GP 100 used for $400 and shoot the snot out of it.
 
Kind of discouraging to read about the Python.
The Internet Evaluation is that it is simultaneously too delicate and too valuable to shoot.
I have shot mine routinely for some time. True, they get mostly .38s except for my foray into USPSA Revolver, but they have seen a LOT of .38s in PPC and IDPA and I haven't worn them out yet. They have about worn me out, though, I was surprised to win High Distinguished Senior (or Social Security Shooter) at the last sanctioned IDPA match. Whee.

My expectation is that the OP's family member's "old service revolver" will have a good deal of holster wear but may have been shot only at semi-annual qualifications.
If so, he has a fine serviceable revolver, not a Ming vase to be displayed and only touched to dust off occasionaly, nor a property to be flipped for cash.
 
You need to know that they suck and are worth nothing....... That's why Colt stopped making them....... So you should send it to me.

You're lucky. Congrats!
 
Shoot the crap out of it, especially since it's free. Who deserves to shoot it more, you or the next guy?
 
All the folks saying "don't shoot it" must have over-looked the fact that the OP said this Python was a duty weapon in a former life. Expect a well worn weapon, and enjoy it at the range.
 
Only real thing you need to know is if it's a "shooter" or a "collecter".

You won't know that till you see it.

If it's like new in the box, never been fired, etc, then sell it for a high price or lock it up somewhere until you decide to sell it or pass it on to someone.

If it's been shot and has a little wear on it, then take it out and shoot it, enjoy it, and try to wear it out (you'll never shoot enough to do it) just like any other pistol.
 
There is only one proper thing to do with a service revolver received as a gift from a relative. Shoot it, take good care of it, and pass it on to the next generation in good shape for the same purposes.

Best gift ever.
 
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