interested in blackpowder

[csa77]

Iv always thought it would be fun to shoot cap and ball revolvers but I have no idea on how you go about using them. I understand the basics but things like what brand and or make of black powder is acceptable and exactly how many grains of powder to use or the proper weight lead balls are things I don't know.
If I was to buy a brand new cap and ball revolver would the manual have all this information?

also how does shooting a black powder revolver compare in price to say a cheap centerfire like 9mm(~20$ for a 100 rounds)

 

[joecil]

I can't help much with black powder cap and ball revolvers but do shot cartridge black powder from my Uberti 1873 Colt replicas and a Rossi M92 lever action rifle in 45 Colt. Powder is more expensive due to hazmat fees for shipping unless you can find a dealer locally. Bullets will depend on if you make your own or buy them. Caps are about the same as primers or at least last time I checked.

I have 5 different powder 1 is Pyrodex RS which is not true black powder but a substitute that gives the same loading methods as standard black (volume measurements not grains). There are others but that is the only one I've used.

As for black powders I've used KIK, Goex, Schuetzen and Swiss as well as some others I haven't used. I listed them in order from cheapest to most expensive by pound, but prices vary depending on who has what. I paid on my last order $13.00, $14.50, $15.00, $22.30 respectively per pound. My preference in black powder for cartridge (rifle or pistol) is 2F however some prefer 3F which is finer grain. It would probably be the same for cap and ball also.

 

[ChrisHarris]

Buy the pistol you want and then learn about it. Nobody can give you a difinitive answer because there's a lot of variables that will depend on the brand, size, type of pistol you choose to buy.

For x brand pistol in V/rw caliber you'll want to use x(2/34.532x6843) powder with (BxC) filler over ball diameter xxx.78w3d5pxt with switzelfart286 over powder wads. See what I mean?

Buy the gun you want and then ask your questions. It's all been done and figured out, but it's hard to answer your questions without knowing what pistol you are talking about. I gaurantee you that whichever pistol you choose to buy, 300 people have already shot the hell out of one just like it. They will know exactly how much powder to use, balls to use, brand of powder, type of chamber filler, ... etc .. etc...

You don't need to reinvent the wheel by yourself. It's all been done...... for hundreds of years already. You just need to buy the pistol you want and THEN ask specific questions about THAT pistol.

 

[damoc]

Buy the pistol you want and then learn about it. Nobody can give you a difinitive answer because there's a lot of variables that will depend on the brand, size, type of pistol you choose to buy.

For x brand pistol in V/rw caliber you'll want to use x(2/34.532x6843) powder with (BxC) filler over ball diameter xxx.78w3d5pxt with switzelfart286 over powder wads. See what I mean?

Buy the gun you want and then ask your questions. It's all been done and figured out, but it's hard to answer your questions without knowing what pistol you are talking about. I gaurantee you that whichever pistol you choose to buy, 300 people have already shot the hell out of one just like it. They will know exactly how much powder to use, balls to use, brand of powder, type of chamber filler, ... etc .. etc...

You don't need to reinvent the wheel by yourself. It's all been done...... for hundreds of years already. You just need to buy the pistol you want and THEN ask specific questions about THAT pistol.

yep i agree just dive in buy what appeals and then ask your questions about a specific revolver asking around here whats the best revolver or load etc is just going to get the colt guys arguing against the remington guys (never a pretty sight LOL) or 36 cal versus 45 cal.

all the new revolvers i have purchased have had very poor instruction manuals in them
fortunately you hav found a good place to ask questions although somtimes the imformation may be a little contradictory

i think shooting BP is much cheaper than most cartridge especially if you also cast your own lead

 

[crazysccrmd]

Just hurry and buy a 58 Remington from cabelas since they are on sale right now with free shipping

 

[Lightning12]

The information that comes with a new BP pistol is very basic and won't tell you enough to really get going.

Just do some basic Google searches and you find some very informative articles online. You will need to read a few because many different approaches and opinions are out there. You will have to find out what works for you.

I bought my first BP revolver maybe three months ago and I have been really enjoying shooting it. My first two attempts however were almost totally unsuccessful. It was my third range trip where I started to get the hang of it.

Chaz

 

[scrat]

also how does shooting a black powder revolver compare in price to say a cheap centerfire like 9mm(~20$ for a 100 rounds)
__________________

Well im not too sure because heck i dont even pay $20 for 9mm. Since i cast my own bullets and load my own its pretty cheap. Now shooting bp revolver can be just as cheap or even cheaper it just depends on how you purchase everything. If you go out and buy your balls, powder and caps then you might be spending some cash. Then your going to realize the cost may be more. However just like the 9mm you have premium ammo and you have low ball. Then same time if you cast your own your only paying for powder and caps. then it can be dirt cheap.

 

[ZVP]

Using store bought balls wads and substitute Powder, the costs of shooting my BP revolvers run just a little per shot more than shooting "Sale Priced" or purchased, reloaded .38 ammo.
I was suprised when I figgured it all up!
Back in the old days (3 years ago) BP shooting was much cheaper than shooting centerfire ammo. Component prices have jumped above and beyond the cheap to shoot range!
Still I prefer to shoot the revolvers and BP in general as it is still very relaxing and slow paced. You still really get a "hand's-on" experience with every shot and you get the chance to handle your revolvers a lot more than you handle a cartrige revolver.
I think the rewards far outweigh the additional costs.
ZVP

 

[arcticap]

Here's the PDF of the Traditions revolver manual for the Pietta C&B revolvers that they sell.

http://www.traditionsfirearms.com/cmsAdmin/uploads/BPRevolver_manual.pdf

Folks often recommend the steel frame Pietta Remington 1858 .44 as being a good revolver model to start out with. They generally have a high level of customer satisfaction, very few if any problems right out of the box, and Pietta's are usually less expensive verses the Uberti's.
The cost per shot is very comparable to the cost of shooting 9mm ammo. As mentioned there are ways to save money by casting your own lead round balls or buying supplies in bulk. But since loading C&B's is a lot slower, not as many shots are fired in a typical range session. So the overall costs of feeding the C&B revolvers seems to work out to be less expensive.
Despite costs being almost equal for the ammo and guns, most folks here would agree that shooting C&B revolvers provides the most fun for your buck!

 

[scrat]

I agree with Aritcap. If you think your going to go to the range with several hundred rounds and take your 9mm as well. WELLL Good luck you can shoot a hundred rounds through a 9mm in about what 5-10 minutes if you go all rapid fire. Loading the magazines will be the slowest. If you try to shoot 100 rounds through a cap and ball revolver your going to be there allllllllll dayyyyyyy long

 

[chicharrones]

But since loading C&B's is a lot slower, not as many shots are fired in a typical range session. So the overall costs of feeding the C&B revolvers seems to work out to be less expensive.

That's the way I think of it, too. BP ammo costs me less per hour than 9mm due to reloading time. Plus, a cap and ball revolver's day is over with much less ammo down the tube compared to a modern centerfire gun.

It might work out to something like 10 cents per BP minute vs. 80 cents per 9mm minute in an hour.

 

[csa77]

well Iv narrowed it down to a .44 steel framed 1860 army. Is there are differences between Uberti and Pietta?

Im leaning towards the cabelas pietta 1860 that comes with the starter kit for 289$
but if Uberti is better I could get a uberti 1860 with out the starter kit for the same price.

 

[scrat]

At one time Uberti was prime. However Pietta quality is very good. They are side by side with Uberti. Owning a few of each. I now will buy what i can get more of. Spend Less get more.

 

[michaelbsc]

well Iv narrowed it down to a .44 steel framed 1860 army. Is there are differences between Uberti and Pietta?

Im leaning towards the cabelas pietta 1860 that comes with the starter kit for 289$
but if Uberti is better I could get a uberti 1860 with out the starter kit for the same price.

I wouldn't get the starter kit. I have one, and frankly I feel like buying individual items would have been better value. Even if a tad bit more money.

The starter kit powder flask is a cheap plastic thing that I immediately abandon. And the starter kit doesn't have a nipple wrench or a nipple pick, both necessary unless you have tools already.

 

[Hammerdown77]

Yep, skip the starter kit from Cabela's and order all the accessories from Dixie Gun Works.

The Pietta 1860 Army from Cabela's is excellent. I have one and it is very accurate and well finished.

I would go for that, or the 1858 Remington that is on sale right now with free shipping.

 

[michaelbsc]

well Iv narrowed it down to a .44 steel framed 1860 army. Is there are differences between Uberti and Pietta?

Im leaning towards the cabelas pietta 1860 that comes with the starter kit for 289$
but if Uberti is better I could get a uberti 1860 with out the starter kit for the same price.

OK, a bent safety pin will work as a nipple pick, and I used one. But a regular retracting nipple pick in your bag works better. Put it on your list if your in a budget and start with a safety pin. Or if you can afford it start with one.

The CVA brass flasks are my personal favorite. And you need a powder measure.

Buy a couple of the big tubes of the Bore Butter, not the little tubes. You'll get it all over everything and don't even worry about being conservative with it to start. Too much is way better than too little. If you want to mix your own later fine, but you have too many details to learn the first few weeks to be melting lard too.

Go to an auto parts store and get a small tube of anti seize compound. Use the nipple wrench I mentioned you needed to get the nipples out before you ever shoot it, and put anti seize on the threads. You'll be glad you did. The nipples are very hard to get out the first time.

The pin to dismantle the gun is hard to drive out the first time, too. But it will come out. Don't despair, just don't use a claw hammer or other steel tool to knock it out. Just be patient. It's a real PITA.

The 1858 Remmington on sale is a great bargain. I'll agree. But if the OP likes the 1860, then any gun is better than no gun.

Personally I would.take the sale price now, use the savings to buy the goodies, then come back for the Colt later.

Don't forget caps! They aren't on sale, but Cabelas appears to have #10 CCI caps. Grab some. They come and go.

MB

 

[Pancho]

Now that you've chosen a firearm, go to the sticky at the beginning of this forum. You will find a lot of good information.
Muzzleloading is about enjoying each round not burning a lot of rounds.
A muzzleloader has complete control over each round and instant feedback to analyze.

 

[arcticap]

The #10 Remington caps fit my Pietta 1858 factory nipples like a glove. But even the #11's can be pinched to stay on.
One of the main differences between the Uberti and Pietta 1858's is that the Uberti has a dovetailed front sight that makes it drift adjustable for windage.
Or consider the Pietta target model that has adjustable sights. Although at $90 more than the $179 base models that are on sale right now hardly makes it worth it.
Whether or not the type of sights will make a difference to you would probably depend on the distance that you choose to shoot targets at.
If shooting 10 - 15 yards then the sights may not matter as much as if shooting at 25 yards or more. Then only testing it out will show where the shots will impact the target.

 

[michaelbsc]

The reason I like the #10 enough to seek them out specifically is that you can use them in a capper tool. When I try to use #11s they have to be pinched by hand. Pinching works, and it works fine. No argument there.

I am usually reloading out in the back yard (on a farm - acres of open space to shoot) and I like to be able to just cap the cylinder without fumbling too much. I don't have a nice sheltered table like a lot of ranges.

Usually by the time I've run out of caps in the capper the bore is fouled enough that it's about time to clean the gun anyway. It holds about 20 caps, so that's three cylinders full.

MB

 

[Gatofeo]

Shooting cap and ball sixguns, or any black powder firearm, requires a commitment to clean the gun immediately after use.
If you live in a humid environment, clean the same day as firing. If you live in a dry desert, you can get by for a few days without cleaning.
But clean you must, because black powder and its substitutes draw moisture from the air and cause rust. Rust is the removal of metal, and this manifests itself as pitting. Pitting is not only unattractive, it affects accuracy and can affect function.
I've seen dozens of rusted cap and ball revolvers in pawn shops in my 40-plus years of shooting such revolvers. Their owner thought it would be fun to have one, but balked at cleaning it. Before long, it was rusted and became pawn-fodder.
Properly cleaned, a cap and ball revolver will last for generations. Neglected, it can be ruined in months.
Yes, they're fun to shoot but they also require commitment and responsibility. If you're the kind of person who delays cleaning modern, smokeless guns then black powder is not for you.