Iron sights in low light

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Z_Infidel

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I have two lever guns that I've been trying to find the optimal (for me) sight configuration for. I like aperture sights with front post, but I can also shoot the semi-buckhorn / front bead setup just fine too. I'm trying to find a combination that works better in low light situations. I've extensively searched the forum for related threads and found some that were helpful, but I would still like to get some opinions on specific questions:

The standard sights on my Marlins work okay in daylight, but are hard to see in low light. I'm wondering if the white diamond insert in Marble's rear sights would help -- can anyone give an opinion on this? Also, there are various front beads available. I know a 3/32" bead would be easier to pick up in low light than the normal smaller bead, but I'm wondering if it would be too imprecise at 75-100 yd ranges?

One of my rifles currently sports a ghost ring / front post sight setup. Again, the front sight is a bit difficult to see when light starts to get dim. I know the XS front sight has a white line on the rear edge of the post. Can anyone tell me how well this works in low light? Also, is it easy to adjust to using this sight with a six o'clock hold? (I use center hold with bead sights)

One more question: I'd like opinions on ghost ring sights versus regular open sights for moving targets. Is one better than the other? Thanks for any replies.
 
When I was deer hunting extensively with iron sights, I would use a line of flourescent, lime-green paint on the front blade. You'll be amazed how well this shows up in low light.
 
Iron sights are a pain in low light.

That said, if you have an aperature rear sight the larger the aperature the better, for it will allow more light to pass through.

You might consider sights with fiberoptic inserts, they look silly but they work.

A low power scope with a large objective will gather light well, may work better than irons.
 
Irons in low light suck!! Plain and simple...

If you can't see the sights, how do you put them on target to get rounds down range EFFECTIVELY :confused: ...Get a red-dot, or a light, or get both like me :evil: ...
 
I've been considering this question too. The way it sets up for me, I think I'd go with a Firesight front, if not just painting the front lime green or orange, and the ghost ring rear. For low light, that ghost ring could be lined in white or maybe that flourescent lime green or something like that.
 
Aperture sights are superior to open sights in all situations.

For low light a ghost ring and fiberoptic front sight sounds like a good setup.
 
For low light a ghost ring and fiberoptic front sight sounds like a good setup.
Agreed - it really is the best iron sight setup for low light that I've tried. Just be forewarned that in order for the front sight to be readily visible, it also must be big enough to potentially make effective 100+ yard shooting more difficult. At least that's been my experience with the AO setup on my Marlin scout.
 
Just be forewarned that in order for the front sight to be readily visible, it also must be big enough to potentially make effective 100+ yard shooting more difficult.

In my experience, most of my low-light hunting time has been in thick cover at dusk (state regs say legal shooting is from 30min before dawn until 30min after dusk). In that thick cover, you can't see past 40yds most of the time anyway, much less shoot to 100yds. If that's the case, I'd think about having this ghost ring and fiberoptic sight setup on a Winchester '94AE carbine in .44magnum. I'm thinking while a 100yd shot would be difficult with a high-vis fiberoptic front, a 40-50yd shot wouldn't be so hard.
 
I put AO sights on my 30-30 Wrangler II . The white front stripe blade is very visable in any huntable light. With a flashlight from the side it is completely useable in any light thanks to the big ghost ring rear.
 
Thanks for all the replies.

I tried the Firesight that came with my WGRS rear sight and it didn't seem any easier to see in low light, and I just couldn't get used to it. It was pretty small in diameter if I recall. I appreciate the comments regarding size of bead versus target distance -- that's one of the things I'm concerned about.

Has anyone tried an ivory front bead? I'm wondering if they are easier to pick up than the gold color.

Perhaps I should go to a larger front bead on my 1894C and a regular size on the 336C, which is the gun I would use for deer -- and I'm not about to go blasting away at deer in the dark of night.

Those of you who have used the XS system, do you use a six o'clock hold with the post in front? If I go that route, I'll want the same on both guns so I won't have to switch between two different sight pictures.

This info is helpful, so I do appreciate it.
 
In my post I meant XS (which used to be AO) and I too am talking the 24/7 post. Of course a sight picture uses the top of a post. In low light, such nicieties go bye bye BUT the Ashley, I mean XS system is supposed to use the top of the white post in such conditions. Large white beads work on shotguns at night, but for rifle fire stay away from beads as they shift impact because of which angle light comes in from. ;)
 
Well, I'll let ya in on a little secret - I finally abandoned the iron sights and mounted a 2x scope on a scout rail on my 16" Marlin. I find that far easier to use than iron sights, especially in dim light....
 
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