Red Tornado
Member
Just what the title says. Is the standard M2 ball reloadable? It originally came from the CMP, but I don't have the headstamp info right now. Should I stop saving the brass?
Thanks,
RT
Thanks,
RT
Is M2 ball reloadable?
- Thread starter Red Tornado
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USSR
Member
Red,
Yes, it is reloadable. However, the primer is crimped in place, and after you remove the fired primer and before you insert a new primer, the crimp must be removed. The various reloading companys sell decrimping tools, with the best being Dillon's swaging tool in MHO.
Don
Yes, it is reloadable. However, the primer is crimped in place, and after you remove the fired primer and before you insert a new primer, the crimp must be removed. The various reloading companys sell decrimping tools, with the best being Dillon's swaging tool in MHO.
Don
Red Tornado
Member
Okay, thanks. I checked the headstamp, and it's LC66. The box is LC, lot 42201, Lake City Ammunition.
Grump
Member
Warning-thread hijack!
If'n ya want more, I have some once-fired (not yet decrimped) and once-reloaded (already decrimped) LC '06 brass to sell furcheep.
If'n ya want more, I have some once-fired (not yet decrimped) and once-reloaded (already decrimped) LC '06 brass to sell furcheep.
Red Tornado
Member
Thanks Grump, but I don't reload and was just checking to see if it was worth anything to anybody. I've also got about 145 pieces of mixed .38 special, .40 S&W, and .45ACP thrown in the box.
The M2 was mine, the rest is from helping clean up the range. I guess I can always put it in a tactical coffee can and make a rattle for the baby.
RT
The M2 was mine, the rest is from helping clean up the range. I guess I can always put it in a tactical coffee can and make a rattle for the baby.
RT
Art Eatman
Moderator In Memoriam
GI .30-'06 brass is a bit thicker in the case wall than commercial. There is therefore about three grains weight less capacity inside the case. Reloads should thus not go to a loading-manual maximum without very careful working up. The general rule about reloading manual maxima is "Don't!"
, Art
, ArtBluesBear
member
Short answer
Is M2 ball reloadable?
Yes. IF it is boxer primed.
Is M2 ball reloadable?
Yes. IF it is boxer primed.
HankB
Member
Modern boxer-primed milsurp USGI brass is generally fine, with the caveats on primer crimp and case capacity already mentioned above.
Some .30/06 milsurp ball ammo is corrosively primed. (The KA- stuff from Korea comes to mind.) I wouldn't care to mess with reloading that.
And if buying "once fired" GI bulk brass, be aware that it may have been fired in a machine gun, which sometimes results in excessive stretching of the web, even on initial firing.
Some .30/06 milsurp ball ammo is corrosively primed. (The KA- stuff from Korea comes to mind.) I wouldn't care to mess with reloading that.
And if buying "once fired" GI bulk brass, be aware that it may have been fired in a machine gun, which sometimes results in excessive stretching of the web, even on initial firing.
jaysouth
Member
A generation ago, most reloaders got started in reloading with .30-06 loads in GI brass.
Yes the crimp needs to be removed with a small screwdriver, pocketknife or drill bit. It makes great reloads and will last forever if you anneal the necks every 10 reloadings or so. The internal capacity is less than commerical brass because the walls are thicker, so load them below max. If you feel the need for speed or the need to hotrod, buy a .300 magnum.
If you have live ammo, check the headstamp date. If 55 or earlier, it MAY be loaded with corrossive primers, so clean accordingly. The old stuff will still shoot very well. The most accurate .30-06 ammo that I ever shot was FA 36 NM. I shot several hundred rounds of it in the 60s and never had a misfire.
If you prep a couple of hundred pieces by removing the primer crimp and trimming to length, they will last you the rest of your natural life.
Yes the crimp needs to be removed with a small screwdriver, pocketknife or drill bit. It makes great reloads and will last forever if you anneal the necks every 10 reloadings or so. The internal capacity is less than commerical brass because the walls are thicker, so load them below max. If you feel the need for speed or the need to hotrod, buy a .300 magnum.
If you have live ammo, check the headstamp date. If 55 or earlier, it MAY be loaded with corrossive primers, so clean accordingly. The old stuff will still shoot very well. The most accurate .30-06 ammo that I ever shot was FA 36 NM. I shot several hundred rounds of it in the 60s and never had a misfire.
If you prep a couple of hundred pieces by removing the primer crimp and trimming to length, they will last you the rest of your natural life.
TooTaxed
Member
The corrosive-primed milsurp is fine as long as you soak it in water within a few days after firing to get rid of the corrosive salts.
Don't forget to trim the brass after sizing to bring it within spec! I've discovered that ALL of my .30-06 and .308 Win brass, commercial as well as milsurp, must be trimmed.
Don't forget to trim the brass after sizing to bring it within spec! I've discovered that ALL of my .30-06 and .308 Win brass, commercial as well as milsurp, must be trimmed.
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