Korean M2 Ball reloadable?

[silhanek]

I sent in my order to the CMP for a field grade Garand. While I'm waiting, I was looking at what I'd need to get started reloading .30-06. Is this Korean ammo from J&G able to be reloaded? Is the brass any good? Are the primers crimped in? I've shot corrosive ammo in my other guns before and know the steps to take to clean that, but was just wondering if this brass was any good?

http://www.jgsales.com/product_info.php/ammo-for-rifles/30-06/p/30-06-korean-m2-ball-on-garand-clips-in-48-rd-bandoleers/cPath/12_44/products_id/887

 

[Art Eatman]

Any brass that's not Berdan-primed is reloadable. (Berdan priming uses two flash-holes instead of one central flash hole.)

Dunno if the Korean stuff has the military crimp. No big deal; use a small hammer and a punch, the first occasion for de-priming. After reaming the primer pocket, it's just like any other brass. Way, way back, I didn't have one of the specially-made pocket reamers; I just used my pocket knife.

Art

 

[444]

I have purchased and shot about six cases of the Korean "KA" headstamped ammo from J&G.
It is boxer primed and the primers are crimped.
I have "processed" nearly all of that brass: cleaned+polished, full length resized, removed primer pocket crimp, uniformed the primer pocket, deburred the flash hole, and trimmed the cases. However, I have never actually reloaded the cases. They are just sitting there waiting for the surplus stuff to run out. FWIW, a lot of the primer flash holes are off center. I am not sure if this matters or not. I guess if you are talking about shooting sub 1/4 minute groups it might be a factor. I didn't have any problem depriming the cases even though the flash holes are off center.
FWIW, last spring, I won this match: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=200388 using a CMP M1 (Greek field grade) rifle and "KA" stamped ammo. They shoot at steel plates out to 800 yards. I don't know exactly how accurate this Korean stuff is, but it is plenty accurate enough for my purposes.
Someone will eventually post: "But this stuff is corrosive !!!!! "
So what ?

 

[silhanek]

Thanks for the replies.

I am aware that this is corrosive and will take the proper steps to clean the rifle after shooting. I have a Mauser that I shoot corrosive in also.

I started reloading .45 ACP last fall and .30-06 will be my first rifle caliber. I'm just trying to do as much research as I can ahead of time while I wait for the CMP box to show up at my door. That's how I ran across the J&G ammo, plus I stop by their store every gunshow in Phoenix and everytime I'm up in Prescott.

I thought this ammo would be a good way to get a collection of Garand clips and bandoliers and at the same time, stock up on brass for my reloading. I'm not expecting one hole groups at 800yds, but just wanted some ammo for plinking. Of course I'll tweak it to get it as accurate as I can, but I'd be happy with even 4 or 5 MOA groups.

Anyone out there that has reloaded this stuff have comments on brass quality? Are you able to get 4 or 5 reloads out of it?

 

[Roadkill]

Problem loading for a Garand is that fast burning powder will warp the operating rod. If you use a medium burning powder (IMR 4895) the brass will last much longer than 4-5 times. I switched all my rifles to this powder including ARs so I wouldn't have to load special for the Garand. Be especially careful for case length and overall length for the Garand. Size, measure, trim. If the overall length of the Korean ammo works well for your gun then use it as a guide for the overall length of your reloads. Be very sure to set the primers deep into the primer well. Also get a second sizing die. That way when you get a case stuck you'll have an extra until you knock the other one out.

rk

 

[Art Eatman]

You gotta full-length resize for a semi-auto. I'd mike the case length every three or four reloads, to establsh a "stretch baseline". That will let you know when to trim the cases. Eventually the neck, shoulder and a quarter-inch or so of the case will get work-hardened. You then have the choice of tossing it out or annealing. That's at maybe 20 or so reloads.

To anneal with a propane torch: Set a line of cartridge cases in a pan. Add enough water so the level is about 1/4" below the shoulder. Heat to dull red color. Shake pan. Done.

Another good test is to take a piece of .040 piano wire about maybe six inches long. Make a 90-degree bend of about 1/8" in one end. Stone a point onto the end of the little bend. You can use it to feel down inside the case, to see if it grabs down by the head of the cartridge case. If it does grab, that's a sign of potential case-head separation. Again, well beyond only four reloadings.

About the only caveat to using military or military-style brass: Compare the volume with a case from Remington or Winchester. It's common that GI brass is a bit thicker in the wall, and holds some three grains weight less powder. If you're using data from Hodgdon, Sierra, or Speer, reduce their loads by some three grains.

The standard Garand load with 150-grain bullets uses IMR 4895. I disremember the weight.

Art

 

[Amy]

Standard load for M2 ball was 48 grains of IMR 4895.

a.

 

[444]

One other thing that I am glad Roadkill brought up. The Korean cases are very long. I was surprised about how much you have to trim them to bring them in line with our trim-to length.

 

[TooTaxed]

Corrosive primers will also cause corrosion of the brass cases ...so after depriming, soak and agitate your fired cases in water to get rid of the corrosive salts.

 

[Khornet]

Korean brass

I've loaded lots of it, although all PS headstamp. There are indeed frequent off-center flash holes. It is crimped. I've never needed a special depriming step, just run it through my Rock Chucker.

Supposedly the 'thicker-walled military brass' thing isn't an issue with '06, though it is with 7.62 NATO.

I've gotten at least 5 reloads from my PS brass and still going.