is there such a thing as a cheap suppressor cover?

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greyling22

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is there such a thing as a cheap suppressor cover? most of what I see is in the $60-120 range. (excepting a couple of the silicone ones that are slightly cheaper) It just seems like a lot of money to spend on something to knock the mirage down on a bolt gun.

I've been looking at the usual suspects: burn-proof, armageddon tacical, col-tac, rifles only....

I wonder if you could buy an airsoft cover like this one https://rb.gy/6mg0cf and put some real insulation material inside. Like a welding cloth or something? https://www.amazon.com/HiwowSport-W...ords=welding+cloth&qid=1612682204&s=hi&sr=1-6
 
I’d just go for some high temp wire insulation/shield material. I have some that keep insulation from melting against exhaust that gets hot enough to discolor ceramic coating.

Measure the diameter and length you need and contact them to see if you can get an “X” length sample of their products for testing that could protect “Y” diameter of cables and I’d bet you get hooked up for free.

https://adlinsulflex.com/firesleeve/?source=adwords&campaign=FS01_ASIA_G_S&adgroup=adl fire sleeve_firesleeve_e&adid=2&gclid=Cj0KCQiAvP6ABhCjARIsAH37rbTmLBXcIq3dd7RkwcMFPGTmizRtbratIJ9yZheOE1A18ZGWAVJcUSoaAhRLEALw_wcB

There are lots of others you can find with a Google search.
 
By the time you guys buy these heat resistance materials and then fabricate a serviceable "can-cooker" from them would you not be better off simply paying the money for one of the purpose made and test ones? I am all for making your own gear (I have been making my own shooting bags for PRS) but sometimes an item is worth the price, especially things utilizing specialized materials.
 
Well, if you could buy a sheet of tubing or material you could wrap, and you got enough for 3-4 cans for $20, then bought 3 airsoft covers for $15 each, you'd be looking at $65 for 3 covers, as opposed to $190-340 for 3 manufactured covers. That's enough savings for a tax stamp......


But really, if I'm just trying to knock down mirage at the bench, would I need a real cover? Could I just drape a welding cloth over the top of the can? Or would muzzle blast knock it off every time?
 
By the time you guys buy these heat resistance materials and then fabricate a serviceable "can-cooker" from them would you not be better off simply paying the money for one of the purpose made and test ones? I am all for making your own gear (I have been making my own shooting bags for PRS) but sometimes an item is worth the price, especially things utilizing specialized materials.
Where do you find one of these $13 "purpose made" covers?:scrutiny:
What MachIVshooter posted works perfectly fine and compared to some commercial silencer covers doesn't work loose.
 
Where do you find one of these $13 "purpose made" covers?:scrutiny:
What MachIVshooter posted works perfectly fine and compared to some commercial silencer covers doesn't work loose.
How do you attached that tape to the suppressor? Can you quick put it on and off? Seem like it would work fine as long as you don't want to put it on and off.
 
I am all about saving $$ when I can. However, given what I paid for my can and how seldom I can get to a nice range to relax and shoot, I'll pay for something made by a reputable company. Also, given my luck I'll just melt some home made thing onto said $$ can and ruin my day.

I am interested it you find an inexpensive option. I would think someone would have posted a good solution online somewhere already.
 
How do you attached that tape to the suppressor? Can you quick put it on and off? Seem like it would work fine as long as you don't want to put it on and off.

A T-pin works fine. Or double sided velcro. Or zip ties. Or rubber bands, O rings, etc.

The stuff has pretty decent friction, so you really only need to tie up the end.
 
A T-pin works fine. Or double sided velcro. Or zip ties. Or rubber bands, O rings, etc.

The stuff has pretty decent friction, so you really only need to tie up the end.
Fair enough. But if you put your cover on and off frequently this seems cumbersome. I don't use a cover much but I like to be able to get it off and let the suppressor cool as soon as I can. YMMV
 
Fair enough. But if you put your cover on and off frequently this seems cumbersome. I don't use a cover much but I like to be able to get it off and let the suppressor cool as soon as I can. YMMV

Ah.

Yeah, I don't take them off. The can will cool in due time.

I only use covers/wraps on scoped rifles anyway. Mirage doesn't bother me with unmagnified optics or irons. And I don't use them on my hunting rifles, either. Just varmint and target guns.
 
I am all about saving $$ when I can. However, given what I paid for my can and how seldom I can get to a nice range to relax and shoot, I'll pay for something made by a reputable company. Also, given my luck I'll just melt some home made thing onto said $$ can and ruin my day.

The fiberglass header wraps most certainly won't melt. That said, they are fiberglass, so you'll want to put something over the outside unless you like being itchy. A cut off cotton sock works. No polyester, though; If it gets to hot, cotton will just burn, not melt. A couple layers of that header wrap, though, by the time you burn a cotton/canvas/burlap cover, your can was hotter than it should have been and would have scorched pretty much any cover.

The fiberglass wrap holds to itself pretty well, but will slip on and off the can pretty easy.

This is the one on my Savage 10 .308. Hard to figure exact cost, but given that the $10-$15 rolls of velcro and fiberglass will do several cans and socks are cheap, I'd say it's about a $7 solution. Not as fancy looking as the $80+ production ones, but I'm a function over fashion type, so as long as it stops the mirage, I don't much care how it looks

20210210_104404.jpg
 
Personally I’d use something like the silicone covered glass. Like the DEI fire wrap on the left. For about half the price the thermaflect stuff (right) would cover the mirage issue. I’d pick either before the header wrap at the bottom, the stuff frays instantly and becomes brittle after getting hot coming apart. Whenever I am messing with stuff that has it on there I always feel like I insulated an attic, itching from the fiberglass.

50B6E7BB-7BAD-49C7-9DA7-686A4FDE55CF.jpeg

It’s Velcro attached so it’s quick and can be snug on a range of diameters.

90F8FB43-883E-41CF-9427-3D4D86C00D55.jpeg
 
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