Tamara
Senior Member
I'd think that this would be part of the simple function check you perform whenever you clean any gun that you may call on to save your hide.
It shot itself to pieces!!!
- Thread starter denfoote
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I'd think that this would be part of the simple function check you perform whenever you clean any gun that you may call on to save your hide.
Marshall
Member
If Loc-Tite is one answer, which I believe it is, it should have come that way from Taurus. The small amount of rounds fired through that gun shouldn't have caused a quality brand new firearm to rattle loose that soon.
Personally, I would be sending it back to Tauri for a new one. Heck, they have the warranty in place for just this reason, use it. If you don't they will never know that the gun had a problem.
Personally, I would be sending it back to Tauri for a new one. Heck, they have the warranty in place for just this reason, use it. If you don't they will never know that the gun had a problem.
Reassembly is pretty easy. Fit the longish spring piece with the flat top into the pin on the cylinder crane that fits into the frame. Just push it in until the flat piece is snug against the pin.
Take the entire cylinder/crane assembly and slide the pin into the frame. It should click into place easily enough. Close the cylinder into the frame.
Now take that itty bitty little spring with the pointy end and fit the spring end into the crane retention screw. You should have what appears to be a two-stepped screw, with the pointy end sticking out.
This screw and spring assembly will fall apart easily, so carefully fit the assembly into the screw hole on the right side of the frame below the cylinder. With the cylinder held in place, tighten the screw until it is just below the frame.
Verify the weapon is empty, point in a safe direction, and pull the trigger a few times. It should cycle normally. Secure the screw with locktite or nail polish if desired. Done.
If you think that is excessively complicated I think you are right. Taking the cylinder apart further is even worse. I'd recommend just using gun scrubber on it.
Like the others, I really recommend a set of hollow-ground gunsmith screwdrivers. Those little screws are easy to bugger up.
Take the entire cylinder/crane assembly and slide the pin into the frame. It should click into place easily enough. Close the cylinder into the frame.
Now take that itty bitty little spring with the pointy end and fit the spring end into the crane retention screw. You should have what appears to be a two-stepped screw, with the pointy end sticking out.
This screw and spring assembly will fall apart easily, so carefully fit the assembly into the screw hole on the right side of the frame below the cylinder. With the cylinder held in place, tighten the screw until it is just below the frame.
Verify the weapon is empty, point in a safe direction, and pull the trigger a few times. It should cycle normally. Secure the screw with locktite or nail polish if desired. Done.
If you think that is excessively complicated I think you are right. Taking the cylinder apart further is even worse. I'd recommend just using gun scrubber on it.
Like the others, I really recommend a set of hollow-ground gunsmith screwdrivers. Those little screws are easy to bugger up.
tiberius
Member
You would mail your gun back to the manufacturer to have a screw tightened?
Marshall
Member
Tiberius, I would say it sounds like more than tightening a screw.
Denfoote say's, "If all the parts are here and I think they are, I'll try to get it back together myself."
It's the mans first revolver, he is asking for help getting this thing back together properly. Would you like to shoulder any part of him having an accident next time it's shot?
I say send it back and have a new gun.
Denfoote say's, "If all the parts are here and I think they are, I'll try to get it back together myself."
It's the mans first revolver, he is asking for help getting this thing back together properly. Would you like to shoulder any part of him having an accident next time it's shot?
I say send it back and have a new gun.
tiberius
Member
You won't get a new gun. That's not how warranties work. They will "fix" it. In other words they will tighten the screw. I'm not faulting Denfoote for his lack of experience....this is how we learn things....but this could happen to ANY side plate revolver. Returning it may be an option, but I'd hate to mail my gun in every time a screw needed tightening. Besides, he’s gonna have to learn how to take it apart if he wants to give it a thorough cleaning anyway. This just accelerates the learning process
I'm sorry, Tam. I'm not buying the idea that a new gun falling apart after 3 trips to the range is just something to be expected, and is the fault of the owner for not tightening the screws.
I've fired plenty of rounds through plenty of guns, and the only screw that ever came loose was a set screw on some cheap sights. If they are properly tightened in the first place they should be able to fire many, many hundreds of rounds before anybody even needs to THINK about the screws. They are machines - properly made machines don't fall apart with normal use. Yes, they have a lifespan, and yes, things break, but screws backing out shouldn't happen very often.
Well, unless you are talking about heavy equipment, like earth moving or farm equipment. The vibrations are severe and continuous. But you know what? The manufacturers know that, and build accordingly. Most of that stuff comes with Loctite already on the threads, or they use locking nuts.
If the vibrations to which a revolver is subjected in normal use are sufficient to cause the thing to fall apart after a few hundred rounds, the manufacturer ought to be shipping them with Loctite already applied, and a tube in the case with instructions on proper use.
One note, after you tighten the tension screw when you put it back together, check to see how easily the crane will now swing open. If it's tight then back off the screw very slightly and check again. If it swings open easily now then remove the screw, apply the Lok-Tite to the screw thread (just a small dab of the "BLUE" Lok-Tite), re-intall the screw/spring/plunger assembly, and tighten to the tension where the crane swings freely with no binding. Give if a few minutes for the Lok-Tite to set and you are ready to go.
Not all screws can be cranked down with gorilla strength. This may be the case with your revolver and it would be a waste of time sending it back to the factory to only receive it back and the same thing can still happen. It's just like any mechanical device and you should learn the proper maintenance. As this is your first revolver just keep asking questions and we can keep it up and runing for you.
Not all screws can be cranked down with gorilla strength. This may be the case with your revolver and it would be a waste of time sending it back to the factory to only receive it back and the same thing can still happen. It's just like any mechanical device and you should learn the proper maintenance. As this is your first revolver just keep asking questions and we can keep it up and runing for you.
caz223
Member
Back in '93, I bought a short-barrelled ruger blackhawk in .41, and every screw that gun had was loose when I bought it, including the red dot and the mounts.
The previous owner said that he could never hit anything with it.
I got a sweet deal on it, and loctited all the screws with loc-tite.
Problem solved, accuracy was great.
Fast forward to '98 or '99.
I was shooting the gun and the base pin popped forward enough to cause cylinder binding.
D'oh, I forgot to loc-tite the base pin detent spring and mating bolt/nut.
A trip to the gunsmith for a few parts, and I was back in business.
But not before I loc-tited the new one in place.
Short barrelled magnum revolvers need their screws loc-tited, if it wasn't done at the factory.
Why check them every trip to the range when you can loc-tite 'em once and be done with it?
I also had an old skool S&W 627 do the same trick as yours, except the gun bound up and just wouldn't open at the range.
Then it wouldn't close.
I took it home to clean it, figuring some dirt was under the ejector star, took it apart, and it fell in 3 peices!!!
I turned it over and the screw just over the trigger fell out.
Interesting.
Not to be confused with cool, for instance.
Anyway, I put it together, and it sufferred no ill effects from that day.
The star still unscrews, and I haven't figured out whether I want to loctite the star or not, but it works fine.
The previous owner said that he could never hit anything with it.
I got a sweet deal on it, and loctited all the screws with loc-tite.
Problem solved, accuracy was great.
Fast forward to '98 or '99.
I was shooting the gun and the base pin popped forward enough to cause cylinder binding.
D'oh, I forgot to loc-tite the base pin detent spring and mating bolt/nut.
A trip to the gunsmith for a few parts, and I was back in business.
But not before I loc-tited the new one in place.
Short barrelled magnum revolvers need their screws loc-tited, if it wasn't done at the factory.
Why check them every trip to the range when you can loc-tite 'em once and be done with it?
I also had an old skool S&W 627 do the same trick as yours, except the gun bound up and just wouldn't open at the range.
Then it wouldn't close.
I took it home to clean it, figuring some dirt was under the ejector star, took it apart, and it fell in 3 peices!!!
I turned it over and the screw just over the trigger fell out.
Interesting.
Not to be confused with cool, for instance.
Anyway, I put it together, and it sufferred no ill effects from that day.
The star still unscrews, and I haven't figured out whether I want to loctite the star or not, but it works fine.
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Marshall
Member
Denfoote, I am sure that with this boards knowledgeable people you can get it back together. I hate assume it was just a loose screw. Was it just that there was no Loc-tite? Is the gun out of time? Did it just simply rattle loose or, was there a reason that the gun did this other than that?
It's your gun so please do your pleasure but, I still suggest sending it back in the pieces it's in.
Good luck in whatever you decide.
It's your gun so please do your pleasure but, I still suggest sending it back in the pieces it's in.
Good luck in whatever you decide.
Dain Bramage
Member
I had a range-rental Taurus model 85 start to do this on me. The range guy loctited it back together.
After 20 years of shooting S&W and Colt revolvers, that was the first time it had ever happened to me. I think we should go easy on Denfoote. There's just something about those Taurii.
I used to be a Taurus fan because of all their inovative models. After a few rentals and info on various boards, I'm rethinking that position. My money is too hard-earned to waste on junk. And this is from a hard-core commie surplus gun fan.
After 20 years of shooting S&W and Colt revolvers, that was the first time it had ever happened to me. I think we should go easy on Denfoote. There's just something about those Taurii.
I used to be a Taurus fan because of all their inovative models. After a few rentals and info on various boards, I'm rethinking that position. My money is too hard-earned to waste on junk. And this is from a hard-core commie surplus gun fan.
Tamara
Senior Member
Quartus,
My no-name, lo-bujt 1987-vintage 3" 629-1 would back its cylinder release screw out to the point of being finger-loose in one good 50-100 round range session. I made a point to give it a good torqueing and keep an eye on it.
High horsepower-to-weight ratio revolvers subject those tiny screws to some pretty serious shocks...
My no-name, lo-bujt 1987-vintage 3" 629-1 would back its cylinder release screw out to the point of being finger-loose in one good 50-100 round range session. I made a point to give it a good torqueing and keep an eye on it.
High horsepower-to-weight ratio revolvers subject those tiny screws to some pretty serious shocks...
I know, Tam. Ever see the vibrations of a firearm discharge on an ocilloscope? There's a lot of vibration there.
But they should be built to take that and keep on ticking. Many do. I wouldn't put up with one that fell apart so easily.
Yes, I agree you should check your weapons, but you shouldn't have to do it every few dozen rounds. Or even every few hundred.
But they should be built to take that and keep on ticking. Many do. I wouldn't put up with one that fell apart so easily.
Yes, I agree you should check your weapons, but you shouldn't have to do it every few dozen rounds. Or even every few hundred.
Andrew Wyatt
Member
It's a simple solution; tighten the screw.
Whenever i clean my 1911, or my 37, I make sure all the screws are tight.
It's not that hard.
Whenever i clean my 1911, or my 37, I make sure all the screws are tight.
It's not that hard.
Does the Taurus manual suggest checking the screws every couple hundred rounds and slapping lock-tite on it if needed? I have never had this happen to me or anyone that I know. I think that I would be pissed. Maybe I need to shoot more. Denfoote good luck with it. Give Taurus a call and see what they suggest.
Tamara
Senior Member
-quote from Ken Jorgensen of Sturm, Ruger Inc. in the article "Top Ten Cleaning Blunders" on pp. 70-71 of the May/June '04 issue of American Handgunner.
WonderNine
member
A Taurus was also my first revolver (if you don't count the Ruger Single Six) and I was not impressed with it either. Damn thing developed a minor timing problem on at least one cylinder and was the loudest gun in the world (the porting didn't help).
Single action trigger was not bad, double action was like a Ruger SP-101, heavy but smooth and didn't stack.....the accuracy was passable to poor at 20 yards. A hundred rounds of 210gr. .41 mags out of a titanium snubnose without hearing protection was just........not as fun as it seemed it would be at the time I bought it........
sm
member
< Preacher ain't around is he>
I bought a Model 10 once that had a screw missing...the front one...yeah "that one". Fella did not want to hear any suggestions the gun store fella made. Actually I think the fella was rationalizing a new tape deck to impress his girlfriend.
I follow this fella outside, cute gal in a Barracuda...I walk back in with the gun,original box and papers...my gun buddy tosses me "that screw".
C note for a gun. Bought lunch for my gun store buddies, took care of the screw, a going through[clean , lube, smooth trigger a bit]. I bought a case of beer for $6 after closing...offset the ammo we shot using the indoor range and what ammo followed me home. I miss the old days and what a C note would get. Heck what $6 would get. I'm talking Budwieser...Carling black label was $3.99 a case.
I bought a Model 10 once that had a screw missing...the front one...yeah "that one". Fella did not want to hear any suggestions the gun store fella made. Actually I think the fella was rationalizing a new tape deck to impress his girlfriend.
I follow this fella outside, cute gal in a Barracuda...I walk back in with the gun,original box and papers...my gun buddy tosses me "that screw".
C note for a gun. Bought lunch for my gun store buddies, took care of the screw, a going through[clean , lube, smooth trigger a bit]. I bought a case of beer for $6 after closing...offset the ammo we shot using the indoor range and what ammo followed me home. I miss the old days and what a C note would get. Heck what $6 would get. I'm talking Budwieser...Carling black label was $3.99 a case.
Wondernine you bought for your first centerfire revolver a ported, fly weight, big bore magnum and fired full powered loads then wasn't impressed with the accuracy? Sounds like you were pushing the learning curve there. With no hearing protetion you were probably flinching from the pain.
you were probably flinching from the pain.You mean your Taurus had more than one?
stellarpod
Member
TAURUS LIFETIME WARRANTY
In my experience, "lifetime" refers to the amount of time it takes for Taurus to make good on their warranty and return the gun to you.
stellarpod
In my experience, "lifetime" refers to the amount of time it takes for Taurus to make good on their warranty and return the gun to you.
stellarpod
denfoote
Member
Marshall,
No, the gun fired in perfect time right up until the crane fell out into my hand when I went to reload!!
I'm gunna put it back together Friday. I don't have time to do it until then because of my work schedule. If all goes well, I'll test fire it Saturday. I already have some Winchester 125gr .38spl +P ready to make the trip down range. In the meantime, my lovely wife dug out her long dormant (pre-marrage) first generation M85UL for me to use!!
Wives are wonderful!!
PS, the first thing I did was to check that durn screw!!
It was tight!!
No, the gun fired in perfect time right up until the crane fell out into my hand when I went to reload!!
I'm gunna put it back together Friday. I don't have time to do it until then because of my work schedule. If all goes well, I'll test fire it Saturday. I already have some Winchester 125gr .38spl +P ready to make the trip down range. In the meantime, my lovely wife dug out her long dormant (pre-marrage) first generation M85UL for me to use!!
Wives are wonderful!!
PS, the first thing I did was to check that durn screw!!
It was tight!!
WonderNine
member
Hehe, only went without hearing protection the first time I took it out. Never again! LoL.
No, I shot the gun quite a bit, from a benchrest as well. It never had any type of decent accuracy so to speak.
I'm still sort of interested in one of their titanium 9mm revolvers.....but with the Kahr MK9's out there, why bother?
Hi, Crownvicman,
I sure would like to hear more about that S&W Model 64 (stainless version of the Model 10) that shot its barrel down range every 100 rounds. I am puzzled about how that would happen with a barrel that screws into the frame. Did it unscrew or were the threads stripped? How was the barrel replaced the first time? Why was the barrel reinstalled rather than returning the gun to the factory?
I have heard of that happening with some automatic pistols when the barrel lock is not installed or not engaged, but never heard of it with a revolver.
Jim
I sure would like to hear more about that S&W Model 64 (stainless version of the Model 10) that shot its barrel down range every 100 rounds. I am puzzled about how that would happen with a barrel that screws into the frame. Did it unscrew or were the threads stripped? How was the barrel replaced the first time? Why was the barrel reinstalled rather than returning the gun to the factory?
I have heard of that happening with some automatic pistols when the barrel lock is not installed or not engaged, but never heard of it with a revolver.
Jim
My impression is the people ragging on the guy for not checking the screws for tightness is a little much. I shot plenty of ACTUAL S&Ws and never had a screw back out. Of course, I know I don't have the experience of a lot of you old greybeards (and grayladies )
) denfoote
Member
M605
It's been cleaned and it's going back together now!!
I'll let you all know how it goes!!
OK, it's back together!!
Test tomorrow!!
It's been cleaned and it's going back together now!!
I'll let you all know how it goes!!
OK, it's back together!!
Test tomorrow!!
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