I've hit a financial brick wall: S&W 627 or 686+

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Deer Hunter

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I have been planning on buying an S&W 627 this christmas for my first .357 Magnum. However, I'm beginning to worry that if my funds don't turn out like I thought they would, I can't justify buying an 800 dollar revolver when I need the money for other things. This leads me to question is one extra .357 in the gun worth 300 dollars? Ever since I heard about the 627, I fell in love with it. However, if I don't sell some dogs (Anyone want some perfect bird-dogs? Registered German Shorthaired Pointers, amazing bloodlines, help me buy a gun!) it looks like I'm not going to be able to get the gun.

So I've been thinking about the 686+ as my first .357. However, it doesn't have the 5" barrel that the 627 has, and I don't really want a 6" barrel. Any suggestions? Should I splurge anyway and get the 627, or wait off and keep it on my "dream list"? How would you compare the L frame 686+ to the N frame 627?

I already have a 625, if that helps any.
 
It was like the 7 cylinders I've tried were over built, to large for what they are, don't really know what it was I didn't like. But if you want one thats a good enough reason to get one.
 
I'm in the same boat

I too have been trying to decide between the two. My decision, however was made much easier because of a recent trip to Gander mouintain here in Michigan. I had stopped by to fondle their 686 4" 686. After being thouroughly impressed (although I would prefer a 5" or even a 6" to a 4") I figured that if the 686 was that good then the 627 must be fantastic. Well it just happens that they had a 627 there, so I was finally able to campare the two side by side. Based on the two guns that were there, the 686 seemed to have the better DA trigger. After I gave both guns back to the salesman he told me that he had noticed the lousy trigger on the 627 & said that he would have mentioned it to me if I didn't seem so excited to actually get my hands on the 627. I know that a particular gun may be out of the norm & I'm not saying that the 686 has a perfect trigger. However the stages of the action were far less pronounced in the 686 during a DA dry fire. Personally I think that I'll go with the 6" 686p or the 686pp.

On a side note, the 625 Jerry Miculeck (sp?) that the salesman took out to use as a comparison had the very best DA trigger I've ever felt on a out of a factory revolver that isn't a a giant snake on it. It is also comperable in price to the 686. I would pick up a 625 but I dont need another .45 right now.

On another side note, Gander Mt. is a great place to figure out what you want before buying/ordering from a gunshop or show. Mr. Gander must have replaced the old Mountain with another mountain made of money. They are WICKED EXPENSIVE & they move a lot of guns.
 
Thanks for the report, Cannon. That's basically what I'm looking for, some objective analysis between the two guns. Since funds may be short, I've really been pondering the 686+ (What as the 686pp?, by the way?)

I've heard the triggers on the 627 are some of the best S&W produces. My 625 has an amazing trigger, so I was guessing it would be very compariable.
 
Put me down for the 627 and if someone has one of these, please post a pix or two. I'd like to see some non-production photos and you guys take good photos. The 627 appears to be a very nice gun.
 
I just got one...686P

4 inch barrel actually, very good feel in my hands. They do make a 5 inch version...I saw it there at the SW company store. HiVis site, wood grips, 1/2 lug barrel (I think). It was about 25-50 extra bucks or so if I remember right. I did not care for the wood grips, I liked the Hogue grips much better for my large hands. :) ...2.5 inch a bit too short, 6" too long...I went with the 4". Just right. :)
 
I own both and find myself shooting the 627 much more often. I think the fact that it is a Performance Center gun makes it worth the bucks. The quality, fit and finish is a definite plus on the PC gun. This not to say I don't like my 686, its a great gun.
 
This is a difficult question, but I think I'd go with the 627. It seems to combine all aspects I love about the N frame .357's and 7 shot Performance Center L frame revolvers.
 
They do make a 5 inch version...I saw it there at the SW company store. HiVis site, wood grips, 1/2 lug barrel (I think).
Click to expand...

That was a special gun that has been discontinued for some time. A "Stocking Dealer Special." Very nice gun and loved by all who own one. I REALLY wanted to buy one but S&W refused to make one just for me without the hole in the sideplate. And I won't buy a S&W revolver that is defective in that way. So I didn't get one. Used the money to buy a really nice Model 58 with the original diamond grips though so I think I came out ahead!

Gregg
 
I've owned both. I chased the 627 for years as my gunshop would not order one. They were afraid if I didn't like it they couldn't sell it. Finally I shamed them into getting me one. 686 had a better DA pull. But, you had to have each gun in your hand to tell. To be fair the 686 was a gun that has been fired some and was broken in. SA on the 627 without measuring it is probably around 4 pounds. Fit and finish on the 627 is better. I like the design of the 627 (8 Times) better than the 686. Love the sights on the 627. At the end of the day I kept the 627 and got rid of the 686. This will probably start a fight, but I purchased a Python during the strike years at the Colt plant and the 627 left it in the dust. As it stands now the 627 is the only .38/.357 I own and I'm not looking at anything else. Purchase one if you can.
 
My first .357M was a new 6" 66 - with The Lock. I dressed it up with Ahrends stocks and a HiViz front sight. Then, that Stocking Dealer Exclusive came out. I wouldn't buy a 686, 6 or 7 shot, as they had a full lug - the 'Exclusive' 5"-er has a partial lug - and a V-notch rear sight, with the same HiViz and stocks my 66 then had. My old friend, a .454 SRH, became a new 5"-er 686+ (Product # 164284). Check for some left over stock on dealer's/distributor's shelves. Duplication? Nope! It gets better...

I have always wanted a 627 V-Comp... their $1200 MSRP from the PC 1/01 was a bit more than I could spend - and they've gone up since then. The tapered lug non-comp 5" 627 runs close to $900 from a dealer now who must like you... $800, if it's new, and you'd probably have to marry his ugly daughter, too... that would be a great price! I lucked out, someone, tired of his Miculek 627 V-Comp, wanted my Heritage 24 - and we traded. Both guns were literally LNIB. I love this 627, even if the comp and muzzle cap are a chore to clean (... especially if using lead!). It really does have a fine trigger. The next best trigger came stock on my new 625JM bought 2/04.

If I could only have one, which would it be? The PC 627, of course. Being a realist, if I had none, and the money I usually have, what would I get? The new 4" 620! It has the 66's partial lug - on an L-frame with a 7-shot cylinder, just like the 686+ - the very same grip, too. Check them out at your dealer. They are less dear than the 6-shot 686. Oddly, so was that 5" 'Exclusive, go figure. Good luck!

Stainz
 
Alright, if I can swing it, I'll go for the 627. I can get one from Bud's at a pretty good price, and since it's one of my dream guns I guess I wont pass it up for something cheaper. I didn't do it with my 625, and I didn't do it with my DSA FAL.

Thanks for the imput guys :)
 
I have both, actually more than one of each.
You can get comparable DA trigger pulls from either model with a bit of work. In reality you can't beat the DA pulls on the K frame 357's like the Model 19.
A lot depends on your intended use. If you intend to shoot in ICORE events the extra 8th round can be a benefit.
 
I don't have a 686. I chose the 627 instead. I am delighted with mine. The DA trigger was a bit heavier than I prefer, but I was able to clean it up myself with just a little polishing inside and a spring tweak. Now it is by far the sweetest trigger on any revolver I own.

The gun is plenty accurate too. If you plan on using the moonclips, I strongly recommend laying out the bucks for the Hearthco ones. They are far and away superior to the factory clips. The difference is really noticeable in completition when you need a quick reload.
 
Alright, I have a question. Can moonclips not be used and you still get reliable fire from the 627?

It's still up in the air for me right now. We'll just have to see when December gets closer. I'm getting some things cleaned up right now and it looks like I'll have enough for the 627.
 
Moonclips are optional. The gun will function fine with loose rounds.

BTW - I've got two 627s, a 5" v-Comp and one of the slab side guns in 5". They are both great.
 
Join ICORE, compete and win a 627. S&W supports them lavishly and provides several 627s for both the match prize table and drawings. I won one with $20 worth of tickets in a drawing and picked up an M66 off the prize table (in trade for the 686 6" originally designated for me--I already had a 686+ 6 inch).

Actually, the 686+ in 4 inch is HOT. The 6 inch is good all around, but the 4 inch just moves better. The 627 is nice, but it is a tank and makes me look too good due to the stability so I usually shoot the 686+ or M66.
 
I have relatively limited experience with S&W revolvers, but if you are reloading and don’t need full power 357 loads, like 158 gr at about 1100 fps, think about nice M19/66. My shooting buddies are BIG time in ½ scale silhouettes, shooting hundreds of rounds every week. If there is a revolver on the market (excluding FA revolvers, price...) they tested it. Here is what they suggest to anybody looking for accurate revolver; “Of all revolvers we tested, the most consistent in accuracy are S&W M19 and M66, but -3 or later. Just make sure that revolver isn’t abused with steady diet of heavy 357 loads like some folks used in N-frame M27 or M627, or Ruger revolvers”.
 
My 627-0 was a beautifully put-together gun with a fabulous pull in both SA and DA. N frames are uually better-fitted and smoother-functioning than other Smiths. But it was a bit large for the round, so I sold it and stayed with my L frames.

There were at least three 5" 686's - the half-lug Hi-Viz, the full lug in the same set-up, and the older Bill Davis National Match full lug, unfluted with a Patridge sight. The latter has a trigger on par with the older 627's; with its Patridge sight and unfluted cylider, it amounts to a smaller version of the original 627. But you'll spend a lifetime looking for one. Mine's the only one I've ever seen. (The Hi-Viz 5" guns both had heavier trigger pulls.)

The most accurate 686 of the twenty or so I've owned is a standard 6", which outshoots almost any handgun I've encountered. S&W made a run of 200 or so Power-ported 686 DX's, selected for accuracy, like the 629 DX. Mine would have made the cut, if it had been around when they built the DX's. I had Alan Marvel smooth and lighten the DA pull, and it's now the sweetest-pulling revolver in my extensive collection.

The upshot? Buy a pre-MIM 686 (MIM parts can't be as thoroughly gunsmithed) and get an action job; you'll be ahead of the game dollar-wise.
 
Ok, changed my mind.

I wont be picking up the 627. I've been trying to convince myself to buy it, but I just can't. I would love an 8 shot .357, but not right now. I cannot justify paying an extra 300-400 dollars for ONE extra hole of .357. I've tried, trust me, but I just can't. I'll save some money this way by buying a 686+ or a 620 (doing research on each right now, but looking at the 686+ more). With that money, I'll probably buy a .223 Saiga that my shop has for $220. Even buying two guns, I'm still saving over $100. Two guns = twice the happiness :)

Thanks for all the imput guys.
 
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$800!? for the standard one, you must be looking in the wrong place bud, I saw a 627 v-comp for 750 and I'd imagine the model without the compensator would be cheaper. but if you want a good s&w in 357 there is a 586 l-comp for 650 I think its a 3" 7 shot
 
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