J&G Sales has P226 Polie Trade in $399+

Status
Not open for further replies.
R

rellascout

member
Joined
Dec 22, 2004
Messages
5,149
Location
VA
http://www.jgsales.com/product_info...g-vg-condition-/cPath/16_234/products_id/3958

Police Trade in Sig Sauer P226 chambered in 9MM. Barrel length is 4.4 inches. Includes one 15 round double stack magazine. Finish will show wear from duty use. In good to very good condition. Handgun pictured is a very good condition firearm.

They also have VG plus for $439 Anyone looking for a W. German P226 should run not walk!
 
Last edited:
I said the link was dead. Not the deal. Original link on OP produced an error from JG site. Since then OP fixed the link in the OP. As evidenced by "Last edited by rellascout; Today at 02:57 PM. "
 
Last edited:
sigs suck anyway...









Just kidding! If I was in a position to buy another gun, this would be high on my list. And I'm sure that there are many people glad that you posted to let them know.

ps. lets keep this on the High Road
 
Sorry I don't know much about Sigs.. but do different model P226s have the extractor placed in different locations?
 
will be getting my 1st 220 this week, old W-German in the cardboard box, used PD gun.

I know someone with some 220 WG 45 PD trades ;)
 
Sorry I don't know much about Sigs.. but do different model P226s have the extractor placed in different locations?
Click to expand...
The extractors are all in the same place, but there are two different types of extractors.

West German Sigs have sheet metal slides with the muzzle end welded on. There is a breech block pinned inside the sheet metal slide. The west German Sigs have extractors that are housed by the breech block inside the slide. Those extractors look like the extractors on 1911s. The extractor tension comes from the extractor itself, which is spring metal.

US made 226s have slides that are milled from one piece of metal; ie there's no separate breech block.
Those models have extractors much like most autos (Glocks, CZ, etc) that are visible on the outside of the slide. the tension on those extractors comes from springs.

I have a West German 228 and 225. Both have sheetmetal slides with breech blocks and I love both.
If you've handled a US made Sig and a German one you can tell a difference. The sheet metal slides are slightly lighter and change the balance of the gun.

A shop I visit had trade in 226s for $350. I had been wantiing a full sized 9mm, but like a fool I didn't buy one. When I did decide to buy one they only had one left and it was in the worst condition I've ever seen a pistol in. :(
I ended up buying a CZ SP-01, which I actually like more than my Sigs...but I'll get a 226 one day ;)
 
The extractors are all in the same place, but there are two different types of extractors.

West German Sigs have sheet metal slides with the muzzle end welded on. There is a breech block pinned inside the sheet metal slide. The west German Sigs have extractors that are housed by the breech block inside the slide. Those extractors look like the extractors on 1911s. The extractor tension comes from the extractor itself, which is spring metal.

US made 226s have slides that are milled from one piece of metal; ie there's no separate breech block.
Those models have extractors much like most autos (Glocks, CZ, etc) that are visible on the outside of the slide. the tension on those extractors comes from springs.

I have a West German 228 and 225. Both have sheetmetal slides with breech blocks and I love both.
If you've handled a US made Sig and a German one you can tell a difference. The sheet metal slides are slightly lighter and change the balance of the gun.

A shop I visit had trade in 226s for $350. I had been wantiing a full sized 9mm, but like a fool I didn't buy one. When I did decide to buy one they only had one left and it was in the worst condition I've ever seen a pistol in.
I ended up buying a CZ SP-01, which I actually like more than my Sigs...but I'll get a 226 one day
Click to expand...

Thank you for that detailed explanation. Is one version "better" than the other? As in, does one style have a bad track record, or are they about the same?
 
Thank you for that detailed explanation. Is one version "better" than the other? As in, does one style have a bad track record, or are they about the same?
Click to expand...



The older Sigs are much preferred as .45&TKD said. One thing about the sheet steel slide Sigs is the roll pins should be changed out every 5000 rounds or so. The 226 is one of the very most reliable pistols made, if I had the funds I would pick up one of these. New 226s are around $900 at my local shop. :eek:
 
Just picked one up. It makes my 220 38super a good mate. It has a production date of 1991 (KA) and proof marks on slide and frame and ser# on barrel. All German all good. The only non-standard marking is TPD 3XX. Toledo Police Dept, Toyota Parts Dept., Toilet Paper Dispensor, does anyone know?
 
bullturkey,

How about a photo?

Did you go to J&G and hand pick or did you have it shipped?
 
I wish that people would quit bumping this to the top. I'm TRYING to resist buying one.I've wanted a 226 since I took my CPL class May 2008 and the instructor crowed about it's finer points. I was shooting a P-6 at the time. I'm sure that there will be another deal like this down the road. I hope! :scrutiny:
 
I don't think either the sheet metal or the machined block has any advantage over one another. The new ones might be a tiny bit easier to clean due to having fewer nooks and crannies. But who cares, it doesn;t really make a difference.

The older Sigs are much preferred as .45&TKD said. One thing about the sheet steel slide Sigs is the roll pins should be changed out every 5000 rounds or so.
Click to expand...
I've heard some people say the roll pins could break, but I've never seen anyone say they've had first hand experience. The top of the breech block transfers almost all of the recoil to the slide body, so the roll pins aren't load bearing anyway.
I make it a habit to change the roll pins when I change the recoil and transfer bar springs. I'll do a detailed strip cleaning at that point.
 
I've heard some people say the roll pins could break, but I've never seen anyone say they've had first hand experience. The top of the breech block transfers almost all of the recoil to the slide body, so the roll pins aren't load bearing anyway.
Click to expand...




It's not that they break but rather over time they can wear to the point that the breech block becomes slightly loose. When this happens the slide will flex against the frame and cause stress cracks. This is also why they say to never reuse these roll pins if taken out.
 
The advantage of the stamped slide is weight and balance IMHO. The milled stainless slides are heavier and make the Sig nose heavy in my hands.

I prefer the P228 over the P229 in 9mm for this reason.

The #1 reason that Sig went to the milled slide was cost. It is cheaper and they could do it here. They did not have to depend on Germany for the parts they could mill the slides in Exeter.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

FIVETWOSEVEN
  • Locked
would this P226 from J & G be a good buy?
Replies
2
Views
349
9mmepiphany
9mmepiphany
D
  • Locked
Anybody ever try...
Replies
3
Views
400
M2 Carbine
M
nwilliams
  • Locked
J&G Has Bulgarian Mak's for $259!
Replies
5
Views
525
ATBackPackin
A
D
  • Locked
Beretta 92 for $329.00!
2
Replies
34
Views
3K
saturno_v
S
X
  • Locked
7.62 x 25 conversion for 1911 J&G $189
Replies
13
Views
1K
Weevil
W
Back
Top