J.P. Sauer & Sohn Western Marshal .44

[HukeOKC]

I have found a couple of threads on TFL so I know a little bit about it. I have a couple of pics I would like you all to look at and tell me what I need to do to get this gun to look a little better.

The frame has some serious wear and rust damage and I don't really know how, or for that matter, if I should fix it.

 

[HukeOKC]

grip

Here is a picture of the grip. On the bottom edges I can see where it has been carved but I am not sure if these are the original grips or not.

 

[Jim K]

As Single Action Colt clones went in those days, the Sauer was not bad. However, they don't really bring enough to make it worth while to have that gun refinished, and I rather doubt that a good refinish would even be possible if the rust is as deep as it appears.

If you want a gun of that type, and it works OK, you could just keep it and use it for a knockaround gun. You wouldn't have to worry if it got wet or banged around in the pickup truck cab

If you don't want to keep it, a shop might give you a few dollars on a trade, though I doubt they would buy it outright. Or you might hope some gun control nuts come along and offer you $100 for in on a turn-in program.

Jim

 

[Old Fuff]

The revolver is basically a good one. It was made by the same company that now produces the SIG/Sauer line of pistols. The frame, barrel, cylinder and hammer are made from steel – they can be hand-polished to remove the pits and then reblued. The backstrap and trigger guard are solid brass. They can be polished and left unfinished, or they can be plated. The grips are quality replacements. You can keep them or replace them as you wish. The ejector tube may be steel or some pot-metal material. If it’s the latter it may be hard to get refinished, but Brownells have a special “blue paint†that will cover anything. I would have at it ….

 

[HukeOKC]

Old Fuff, When you say "hand polish", is that something that I can do and with what?

And as far as reblueing the gun, should I use that "Blue Paint" on the whole piece, or only on the ejector?

 

[Old Fuff]

Hand polish:

Yes, you can do it yourself. You need a pack of fine emery paper or cloth, usually available in the paint department of automotive stores, and some small blocks of wood or wood dowells (pieces of scrap work fine). If you understand sanding a wood shotgun or rifle stock prior to refinishing it, this is the same thing, except on metal. An excellent job can be done if you take you're time. Start with course (320 grit) paper and work your way to the finest. (800 grit or even finer). Use the pieces of wood for sanding blocks.

Paint vs. blue:

The paint will work on the entire gun, but it's less desireable then a regular blue job. The problem is that non-steel parts cannot be be blued using conventional methods - at least in most home shops, so painting is the only option. Use a magnet to determine what is, or isn't steel.

All of the information and materials you need can be obtained from Brownells, a gunsmith supply company in Iowa. You will find them at: www.brownells.com

Get a copy of their catalog and you will soon be very knowledgeable about a lot of things, including gun refinishing.

 

[Gordon]

That gun is in perfect shape for SASS cowboy action shootin! Lots of people are paying good money for 'aged guns'. Yours looks very 19th century, from a distance. I'd use it as is if it shoots to point of aim and is reliable.

 

[HukeOKC]

Thanks Old Fuff, for the information. I appreciate you taking the time to explain that.

Gordon, I had thought about that and I am not currently into the cowboy action stuff...yet. This may be something that could guide me in that direction and I'm glad you told me that because IU was thinking that it was worthless in the condition that it's in.

Any other thoughts on this gun are more than welcome and I appreciate the feedback so far.

 

[C.R.Sam]

Agree with Jim Keenan and Gordon.

Has very little monetary value.
Yet is a good gun.
If time and money were expended in refinishing it....
would still have very little monetary value.

If you like shootin such critters;
Get it checked for safety, structrual integrity etc.
Stop the current corrosion.
wipe it with RIG or similar.

And enjoy shootin it.

Some of us enjoy shootin a 20 dollar gun that shoots well more than shootin a 1,000 dollar gun that doesn't.

And....you won't have to worry bout scratchin it.

Sam

 

[Old Fuff]

Huke;

For what it’s worth, I have several old revolvers that look a lot worse then the gun you have, but they shoot like a-house-afire. I could have them refinished, and maybe I will. But right now I can carry and use them under all kinds of conditions and not worry if they get scratched or marked up. I am far more interested in they’re hitting where I point them then the condition of the blue.

Concerning your Hawes, which by no means is junk regardless of its resale value. It would make a good “learner†if you wanted to educate yourself on handgun refinishing, and if you did your own work the materials wouldn’t cost much. But for the time being I would shoot it a bit and see if you liked it, and how well it shot for you. Then decide about refinishing – professional or otherwise.