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Joining the Cap And Ball Club

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Cosmoline

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Dec 29, 2002
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Well this has been on my to do list for about ten years, but I finally got around to getting a C&B revolver. It's a .36 cal 1951 Colt Navy from Uberti. The "London" contract model. I haven't shot it yet, but it loads nice enough.

Anyone shooting one of these replicas? Any tips? I'd heard you need to give them a little tilt to clear the cap debris and prevent a bad jam. Also that a total teardown is a pain. But OTOH that accuracy is usually excellent and shooting very fun.

383412_4668789365871_1492481152_n.jpg
 
Your 1851 london is a fine start,complete disassembly is really not that difficult and something that must be done occationally, using pyrodex p permits more shooting but cleaning must be done the same day. Cap jams occur its part of the fun and realism. there is much more to know just wait for more replies, pghrich
 
Some thoughts:

Yes, there are actually quite a large number of folks shooting the Colt 1851 Navy pattern revolver. It was produced originally in just .36 cal; today's .44's are modern variants.

Accuracy is excellent but for one caveat - they shoot high at normal pistol ranges by design. Thus POI will be very consistent - thus accurate - but well above POA. You'll need to shoot with a 6 o'clock hold or even lower. Changing the front sight is an option.

Get a powder measure, experiment with loads to find what your gun likes best, and once found, be consistent in every phase and detail of loading. Little things matter.

Lubed overpowder wads are much less messy than grease over the chamber mouth.

The Colt 1851 Navy pattern design points very naturally. Lots of fun to shoot.

Clean bore, chambers, nipple cutouts and overall exterior religiously after each session. Complete teardown is actually quite simple (Sam's design is sheer genius) but isn't really necessary every time you shoot. I do a complete teardown, clean and oil every 4 to 6 sessions, and at least semi-annually if I don't use a particular gun for a while.

There's a homily about using petroleum based oils. Avoid using them in areas were combustion temperatures are seen; obviously the chambers and the bore. Black powder burns at a lower temperature than smokeless, and low distillate petroleum products (regular gun oil and regular Hoppe's No. 9, for instance) end up only partially burned - the residue is tar and a pain to remove. That said, high distillate petroleum products do fully burn at black powder temperatures and so are excellent solvents and rust preventatives. These are generally mineral oil type liquids; products such as Ballistol, Hoppe's No. 9 Plus, Butch's Bore Shine, Thompson Center No. 13 & No. 17 solvents, Bore Butter, even machine cutting oils and vegetable oils. One last point: it's ok to use the lower distillate products so long as they are not present in the combustion areas when the gun is fired, so if that's all you have go ahead and use it. Just make sure to run an alcohol soaked patch through the bore and chambers before firing the gun the next time.

Black powder combustion residues are fully water soluble. Period. You don't need strange concoctions of Murphy's Oil Soap, Simple Green, WD-40, Windex with or without vinegar, thousand island dressing, alcohol, hydrogen peroxide and whatever else. Really. If it makes you feel better to use them, go right ahead, it's your money and they won't harm your gun.

Don't take this personally, but it might be worthwhile investing in a good tooth whitener - you'll be grinning from ear to ear.
 
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And one more thing, like the old potatoe chip saying about eating just one?,,,NOBODY can own just ONE...Soon you will have many. I'm a slow starter with only 4 but I also cast my lead and might even make me some BP for the hell of it..:D
 
Fine choice Cosmo. Mykeal did a good job of covering the basics, but also check out Gatofeo's posts linked in the sticky at the top of the forum.

Try both .375 and .380 balls in your Uberti. Many .36s shoot well with .375 balls but my Uberti 1851 Navy needs the larger size, or it shoots patterns.
 
Cosmoline,

That is a nice looking start on a filthy habit. I mean the mess of course, but it is worth it.

everybody else,

Hey, I have only one........of some models.

-kBob
 
Try both .375 and .380 balls in your Uberti. Many .36s shoot well with .375 balls but my Uberti 1851 Navy needs the larger size, or it shoots patterns.

I was wondering about this. I noticed when loading up it shaves a ring of lead from the .375" balls. So it would seem that I'm already pushing it diameter-wise. A wider ball will just shave off more lead, correct? Or is ring shaving a bad sign?

NOBODY can own just ONE

Truly. I expect to get another 1851 and then strap them to the handlebars of my mountain bike. Then I can shoot one out of each hand like Rooster.
 
Ring shaving is good, it means you have a good seal. Unless your gun has chamfered chamber mouths, it should shave lead when seating the balls.

The .380s may give better accuracy, because they will have a longer bearing surface. They will be somewhat harder to seat but just how much harder depends on your gun.
 
Yep, it is something like sizing a modern rifle or pistolbullet in a lube sizer.....that is you are stuffing an over sized piece of lead into a smaller hole. Since the chamber mouths on most C&B aresquare rather than a tappered cone the excess is cut off rather than being swaged to the new shape. You want a solid ring of lead if posible, What you are actualy shooting is no longer a sphere. Think of a globe. Think of shaving parralell to the axis of rotation from10 degrees north to 10 degrees south turing that area into a cylinder as it were and leaving the rest of the sphere its original shape. exagerated but give you an idead of what is going on.

Not trying to scare you or anything but I have not bought a single old military bolt action rifle since these fellows seduced me into the black.

-kBob
 
Very interesting. This is the "slug ball" I was referring to, also from the CW era:

bx152.jpg


http://www.cwrelics.com/bx.htm

It obviously has much longer flats than you can make from shaving some lead, but the principal may be the same--you increase the bearing surface on the grooves. It's a step towards modern elongated bullets.

There were also a wide array of conical and even pointed handgun rounds around back then which would be interesting to try. Some appear to be in the proper caliber for an 1851 Colt.
 
Which is all very good for sealing the chamber against combustion gasses, but unfortunately the theoretical boost in accuracy is most often lost because the chamber diameters on most Italian clones (regardless of manufacturer) are smaller than the groove diameter of the bore; thus the ball/spheroid doesn't fully engage the rifling and allows blow-by.
 
If you don't get good results with the .375s, try .380s. Start gunsmithing only if they don't shoot accurately.
 
Shoot it before you bother with having the cylinder reamed. I have been shooting these replica six-guns since 1974, and have yet to find one that really needed this modification to shoot very well indeed.
 
"...Not trying to scare you or anything but I have not bought a single old military bolt action rifle since these fellows seduced me into the black.."
-kBob

I've got to step in line behind kBob, there is just more fun resulting from them bp handguns.
I'm going to blame myself for the seduction rather than these "fellows" though, I discovered this place long after I started to follow this path.
 
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