Just given ~ 200lbs of lead. What now?

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Milkmaster

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Just was given about 200# of lead. Some of the pieces in the picture are dark grey like one would expect lead to be. Others are bright and shiny but weigh the same. I am wondering if it is suitable for casting bullets. That would be a new hobby for me. I assume I need a bullet mold for whatever caliber I would want and some sort of heating method. If I decide not to invest, how is the best way to discard or sell the lead itself? I am not sure what the numbers mean or how to determine purity. Lead is getting expensive these days. Maybe see if a reloading shop would want it for a cheap price? Your thoughts??

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SN is tin, the number after it is probably the ration of the lead to tin. 1 or 2 parts per volume.
What you don't know is the hardness of the alloy.
Can you mark it with your thumb nail? Hard vs Soft.
Yes, it is all good for making bullets, shiny vs dull. May have to adjust your alloy though.
You may have to buy a lead hardness tester to find out what someone gave you, or you could ask them.
12-16 Brinell is good for softer bullets at lower velocities, but some claim that they use 12 Brinell for magnum loads.
You are on a reloading forum, do you reload?
If you don't there is no point in keeping the lead unless you want to make fishing sinkers out of it.
You can get into casting fairly cheap to see if it's something you want to pursue.
As far as whether or not it's for you? We can't answer that. I cast some and I do enjoy it when I cast but like reloading, it can get expensive in a hurry if your aren't practical about it.
I use a Lee lead melting pot, https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Do-...Ja8tXE_39Nm-Q1_1dTzuxCZjaaVb4ePhoCZw8QAvD_BwE
and Lee molds, the molds do work for all the more they cost.
I have several of them. But chances are if you really like casting you will want to move on to a more expensive, higher capacity furnace and cast or brass bullet molds. This is where the money comes in, but that's part of a fun hobby.
Now, If some one gave me 200 lb of lead I would be ecstatic.
I would be figuring out how many bullets I can make out of this lead before I even cast one.
 
SN is tin, the number after it is probably the ration of the lead to tin. 1 or 2 parts per volume.
What you don't know is the hardness of the alloy.
Can you mark it with your thumb nail? Hard vs Soft.
Yes, it is all good for making bullets, shiny vs dull. May have to adjust your alloy though.
You may have to buy a lead hardness tester to find out what someone gave you, or you could ask them.
12-16 Brinell is good for softer bullets at lower velocities, but some claim that they use 12 Brinell for magnum loads.
You are on a reloading forum, do you reload?
If you don't there is no point in keeping the lead unless you want to make fishing sinkers out of it.
You can get into casting fairly cheap to see if it's something you want to pursue.
As far as whether or not it's for you? We can't answer that. I cast some and I do enjoy it when I cast but like reloading, it can get expensive in a hurry if your aren't practical about it.
I use a Lee lead melting pot, https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Do-...Ja8tXE_39Nm-Q1_1dTzuxCZjaaVb4ePhoCZw8QAvD_BwE
and Lee molds, the molds do work for all the more they cost.
I have several of them. But chances are if you really like casting you will want to move on to a more expensive, higher capacity furnace and cast or brass bullet molds. This is where the money comes in, but that's part of a fun hobby.
Now, If some one gave me 200 lb of lead I would be ecstatic.
I would be figuring out how many bullets I can make out of this lead before I even cast one.
Plus one on the Lee setup. It gets you useable bullets for cheap. I've found a while new side of reloading that's fun. Mine started with 2 free 5 gallon buckets of wheel weights. Then I started buying lead...
 
Be d....m glad you don't live in California. That lead is "hazardous" material and you need a permit to move that amount on the highway. :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::cuss::cuss::cuss::cuss::D:D:D:D
BTW: Loved TN...used to go caving there.
 
Shiney is newly cast, within the last few years. Dull means its been quite a while (10 years or more) since it was poured into the ingot. Eventually it will turn white, but none of us will be alive to see it. Takes 50 years or more, when buried underground where it happens faster.

Tin (SN) will ever so slightly harden lead. Its just barely harder than lead. Its main purpose is to help the lead flow and fill the nooks and crannies better. When you melt up virgin lead, usually you will add some tin and antimony to it. The antimony is what hardens the lead, now in alloy form. You can get hardening alloy made of lead and a high antimony content that you add to your lead. The Lyman #2 alloy is a published quality alloy for target shooting and hunting.

Start with Lee molds and a Lee bottom pour production pot. The bottom pour pot is self heating and is so much easier than using a cast iron pot over a fire or hotplate with a ladle. And not much more expensive. You will need a "junk" metal spoon for skimming off the floating impurities known as dross.

You'll need some lube for the newly cast bullets. There are multiple types and methods. Tumble lube is likely easiest for a beginner. So get a Lee mold with TL in the mold number.

Ventilation, respirator, safety glasses, an apron, sleeves, and gloves are highly recommended. No smoking or eating or touching your face, pits, nether-regions, etc without washing your hands first.
 
Just was given about 200# of lead. Some of the pieces in the picture are dark grey like one would expect lead to be. Others are bright and shiny but weigh the same. I am wondering if it is suitable for casting bullets. That would be a new hobby for me. I assume I need a bullet mold for whatever caliber I would want and some sort of heating method. If I decide not to invest, how is the best way to discard or sell the lead itself? I am not sure what the numbers mean or how to determine purity. Lead is getting expensive these days. Maybe see if a reloading shop would want it for a cheap price? Your thoughts??

View attachment 1099156
Horribly dangerous, major health risk. You'd best ship it to me and I'll dispose of it for you.
 
first: say thank you. then either get into casting, or sell/trade. A lot depends on what you shoot and how much spare time you have. if you have a 45acp, 44 mag, 32-20, 357 mag, 35 remington, or something that is expensive to buy for, get into casting. if you have 9mm and 223, trade it away.
 
there are ways to test hardness, thumbnail, pencil test hardness tester. if you live near a scrap yard they may xrf it for you possibly for a small fee. castboolits.com has years of reading on the issue.
 
first: say thank you. then either get into casting, or sell/trade. A lot depends on what you shoot and how much spare time you have. if you have a 45acp, 44 mag, 32-20, 357 mag, 35 remington, or something that is expensive to buy for, get into casting. if you have 9mm and 223, trade it away.

Or if you have a 9mm, buy a gun of suitable caliber to cast boolits for!
 
Quick Redneck hardness tests:

1. Drop a chunk on concrete. If it rings (plink), it is a hard alloy, probably not suitable for percussion revolvers or muzzleloader rifles. It may work just dandy in cartridges.

2. Drop a chunk on concrete. If it makes a dull “clunk” or “thud” sound and it’s deformed where it hit the concrete, test it further by digging your thumbnail into it. If thumbnail pressure leaves a dent, it is close to pure lead, and can probably be used in percussion handguns and rifles.

Drop them all and segregate them into “hard” and “soft” piles. If you don’t cast yourself, at least you can sell them with that crude identification with a clear conscience.
 
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Its hard to see but i think those are 'M's, not 'N's. Which begs the question, what is SM2 and SM1?

1. Yes they are "M" and not "N".
2. I can't ask him about it because he is dead. I saved the lead from cleaning out his work shop for the widow. I felt it should be good for something.
3. The reloading I do is for shotguns shells. I thought about making a dripper for 7.5 shot.
 
Just was given about 200# of lead.
You will need to invest more than the value of the lead in ancillary equipment before doing anything, and that's before you spend time. . . and it's alot of time.

If you're a pistol shooter, reloader, and your time is not in high demand, maybe try your hand at casting; otherwise, don't. Perhaps making shot is easier.

This coming from a guy who casts, and has roughly 4000# stocked away.
 
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You will need to invest more than the value of the lead in ancillary equipment before doing anything, and that's before you spend time. . . and it's alot of time.

If you're a pistol shooter, reloader, and your time is not in high demand, maybe try your hand at casting; otherwise, don't. Perhaps making shot is easier.

This coming from a guy who casts, and has roughly 4000# stocked away.
It's definitely a time vs money thing. If your retired and money is tight good. If your working and raising kids, pass.
 
If it were mine I would try casting a few bullets with it and see how it worked out. But thats not an option for you. You might check with some of your shooting buddies and see if any of them cast. You should easily be able to sell it on here for $1 a pound or so plus shipping.
 
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