K-31, cracked stock, Richards Microfit?

[JerryMander]

Hello, long time lurker, first time poster. Love to become a more permanent member.

I have a K-31 with a cracked stock. Unfortunately, not much to be done about it. So, I was looking for a replacement stock, and thought I might as well get a nice Monte Carlo stock while I'm at it.

Boyd's and Richards Microfit seem to be the only game in town for nice walnut monte carlo stocks for the K-31 at an affordable price. But Richards Microfit has better selection of woods, which I like.

But wait, searching for Richards Microfit releases a torrent of hate about the company. Mostly: a.) The customer service is nonexistent, and can take days to get ahold of them, and months to get a stock, and b.) that the stocks are nowhere near as finished as they claim.

This doesn't bother me too much, as I'm a patient man, and don't mind a little work(and Boyd's doesn't say how much of their stock is inletted, either).

Is this a good idea? Is Richards an alright company to deal with? I've done a little wood working, nothing major. Can this rifle stock be inletted with, say, sandpaper and rasps? Are there any step by step guides on inletting a stock? Is this a terrible idea?

As another issue, should I attempt bedding in any way? I know nothing about this voodoo, and assume I should leave well enough alone.

Sorry for the long first post.

 

[Steel Horse Rider]

Why can't you fix the original stock? I have repaired several WWII era rifle stocks, one was an Arisaka Type 38 with the wrist broken almost completely through, with Acraglas. You need to completely clean all the oil and grunge from the broken area which is easily done by soaking the stock in Coleman stove fuel, then allow it to dry and mix the Acraglas with the color dye to match the wood, open the broken area (crack) and work the Acraglas into the crack as completely as possible (a toothpick is handy to work it in deeply) and then clamp it as thoroughly as possible in all directions. I used waxed paper under the bar clamp pads to separate the adhesive from the clamps to allow easy removal. When cured (allow 24 hrs) remove the clamps and paper, sand smooth, and apply Tung oil or whatever finish you prefer. If done properly the stock will be stronger than new and the damaged area will be difficult to see.

 

[JerryMander]

Because my brother is a magician. I don't know how he did it, but I'm not lending him anything anymore.
Lets say I can throw my rifle like a javelin, and still have the buttock in my hands.

 

[zdc1775]

You mean kind of like this. If so it can be repaired but it does require a little more than just basic woodworking skills.

Try joining SRF and PMing either candyman (GunnyUSMC here) or gunfreak and they can give you some good advice if you want to either try fixing it or sending it to someone to fix.

 

[Smokey Joe]

K-31 stock...

Jerry Mander--I bought a Boyd's stock for my Yugo M-48 Mauser, and was VERY satisfied. Bought mine "unfinished" which is Boyd-speak for not varnished--The inletting, shaping, and rough sanding are all done. The stock fit my M-48 with almost no "fitting" on my part at all. 1 or 2 strokes with a file, in 2 places on the stock, IIRC.

Now, as practice, I had bedded a plastic stock on an SKS, and that didn't go badly, so I bedded the M-48 also. (WARNING: Use PLENTY of release compound!!! Follow the directions in the bedding kit.) It went w/o a hitch. If you want a nice-looking stock, the most tedious part of the whole project is the sanding, as it would be with ANY woodworking project.

I sanded the stock with coarse sandpaper, then sanded the stock with fine sandpaper, to the point where there were no machine marks, and everything was nice and smooth. (Previously I had made a few "adjustments" to the original shape of the stock, just a touch here & there...)

Then used ordinary hardware-store spray satin spar varnish--sprayed on a light coat, let it dry overnight, sanded it all off. Repeated same. Then began spraying on a light coat, letting it dry, and not quite sanding it all off. Repeated that for 4 more coats. Finally sprayed on a final coat and did not sand, and called it done.

Bedding kits are available from Midway. (Or any similar place.) Boyd's sells a complete "finishing kit" but using local-bought sandpaper and varnish worked for me.

The Boyd's telephone people are very helpful, and used to talking newbies through problems. They will probably have a variety of stocks that fit yr K-31, and the price is reasonable.

If it seems that I am a big fan of Boyd's Stocks it's because I am.

Good luck in your project, whichever way you decide to proceed. And please keep us posted!!

ETA: I just added pix of my Mauser to the thread, "Show off your sporterized military rifle."

 

[headoftheholler]

Fair warning, the K31 is not an easy action to final inlet. I've fit close to a dozen mausers and mosins in semi inlet stocks with no issues. I bought the semi inlet K31 stock from boyds and it gave me fits making everything fit right, it is a unorthodox and complicated design. It can be done, just take your time.

 

[Jackal]

Richards Microfit is still a thing??

 

[carbine85]

Post some pictures of the broken stock. It might be repairable as mentioned.

 

[Palehorseman]

Hello, long time lurker, first time poster. Love to become a more permanent member.

I have a K-31 with a cracked stock. Unfortunately, not much to be done about it. So, I was looking for a replacement stock, and thought I might as well get a nice Monte Carlo stock while I'm at it.

Boyd's and Richards Microfit seem to be the only game in town for nice walnut monte carlo stocks for the K-31 at an affordable price. But Richards Microfit has better selection of woods, which I like.

But wait, searching for Richards Microfit releases a torrent of hate about the company. Mostly: a.) The customer service is nonexistent, and can take days to get ahold of them, and months to get a stock, and b.) that the stocks are nowhere near as finished as they claim.

This doesn't bother me too much, as I'm a patient man, and don't mind a little work(and Boyd's doesn't say how much of their stock is inletted, either).

Is this a good idea? Is Richards an alright company to deal with? I've done a little wood working, nothing major. Can this rifle stock be inletted with, say, sandpaper and rasps? Are there any step by step guides on inletting a stock? Is this a terrible idea?

As another issue, should I attempt bedding in any way? I know nothing about this voodoo, and assume I should leave well enough alone.

Sorry for the long first post.

Unless near completely destroyed, most cracked wood stocks can be repaired.

If crack is such to make possible, this is the way I would do it and in no way recommend for others to do so.

If crack can be opened a little, do so. Then in a well ventilated area, wearing eye protection and using nozzle, liberally spray blast crack with carburetor or brake cleaner, it evaporates very rapidly. This not only cleans out dirt and grime, but will also help get rid of any oil which may be saturated into the wood.

Mix up two part epoxy, mixing in a coloring agent to mimic color of stock wood. Work it in deep as possible into the crack and scrape off excess epoxy on wood surface.

Too keep crack tightly closed until epoxy cures, I use 3/4" x 16" bands of rubber cut from a bicycle inner tube. I use wax paper to wrap around the crack, the waxed paper acts as a release agent from epoxy which will be squeezed out of crack. To make for easier removal of hardened epoxy, apply Johnson wax to the immediate wood surface area around crack.

Wrap wax paper around crack, stretch a rubber band (leaving enough of ends free to tie off) and tightly wrap the crack and then tie off. If one band is not enough, then use another and repeat the process. After epoxy cures and hardens, cut rubber bands, remove wax paper and sand off any exposed epoxy.

 

[rondog]

There's also original K31 stocks out there, I'd use one of those first myself before buying an aftermarket, if your broken one can't be fixed. Get ahold of Swiss Products, if they don't any they'll know who does. I'd use the phone and call them, don't rely on email or the website.