K98, trigger and barrel help needed

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Dragk913

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This post has two parts, please bear with me

Ok, everyone says to get the most accuracy out of a rifle - you need the best trigger.
I have a K98 (my first rifle) and even though I know it's not a tack driver, I want to make it as accurate as possible.
But do I really need an aftermarket trigger?
I don't have a problem with the current two-stage military trigger.
I know where the 1st stage ends and the second begins.

I can get a single stage (modified, unknown pull poundage) military trigger for like $10.
Or I can get a Bold Premium Trigger (single stage, 2-4lbs pull) for around $40.

But will the trigger really help? And if it does, which trigger should I get?


****************************************

Now onto floating or not floating.
I have read multiple threads about people floating their Mauser barrels (usually on a sporter stock - mine is staying in the military stock) but I have also read that the Germans used a different method than the Americans - and required the barrel to be tight against the stock.
Which do I do? Keep the barrel tight in the military stock or free float?

(I already bedded the action and am getting into reloading, just not too sure what to do with the barrel)



Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I tried searching through Google and through GunBoards, and THR.
-Austin
 
As for mechanical accuracy it will not change with a trigger upgrade. However we are not cyberdyne model 101's so humans do much better with a light trigger that breaks with minimal movement. I went with a timmeny sportsman. Your safety may or may not work after this and you may need a commercial Mauser cocking piece. But they break clean and adjust nice. My groups shrunk but I did more than a trigger it was more of a complete rifle build so I cannot speak on improvement. But yes it will greatly help!!!!
 
Which do I do? Keep the barrel tight in the military stock or free float?

My philosophy is to float the barrel because as most know, wood is often affected by humidity and bedded barrels have to follow the warping of the wood should it occur. That can change POI seasonally.

I use bold triggers on my Mauser conversions but the Timney's are popular too. It's a plus to have a nice clean breaking trigger to enhance your accuracy.

If you are scoping your rifle then a good after market safety needs to be considered. You can get safeties on the trigger assemblies but do need to inlet the stock for it, and I feel better about a positive bolt safety and all my conversions have the simple replacement offset safeties that's available and still keep costs down.

NCsmitty
 
My K98 is bone stock and drives tacks, though I have been told more than once that it has one of the best bores seen in old Russian Captures. I have put thousands of rounds through her and know that rifle better than any other I own. If you are not having issues hitting what you are aiming at and are comfortable with it then I would say leave it alone. Why fix what ain't broke? Though much can be said about the benefits of a crisp clean, light trigger.

As far as floating the barrel. If you are leaving it in the military stock then that answers that question. Accuracy will (should) improve with a floated barrel. But unless you are using the rifle to compete I would not worry about it.
 
Awesome, thanks for the input guys!

For now, I will just keep everything the way it is while I work on reloading. If I don't like where I get with that, I'll throw on a Bold and float the barrel.

Thanks again! :)
 
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