Kabar 7" blade

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On more reflection,
I've come to understand that
I want both the Mk1 and the Mk2.

And if there's an Mk3, I'll take one of those, too.
 
There are better knives than either for not much difference in price.

The MkI can be replaced by many Moras, but the current KaBar MkI is an excellent knife if you flatten the sides a bit to take it off of round.
 
But I want the sheath almost as much as the knife.

Well, OK, only 1/2 as much. If it's like my 7"
and it looks to be, then it locks in.

Click.
 
"Fightin" Knives

I recently picked up a replacement for my youngest daughter's USAF Pilot Survival knife (model 499). When we lived in Scottsdale and she was -- what, 14? -- I took her to the local purv (knife shoppe) and told her to pick "anything" and that was what she chose.

It was stolen from her last year (the brother of a friend she was staying with broke into her bedroom while she was at work and stole all of her knives except the one he didn't find, sold them for drug money). I managed to find one that was a good match, and which was made the same year she was born.

I've spent an hour last week putting an edge on it. I have another of the same design by Camillus, and it's every bit as hard to put a good edge on. I probably have unrealistically high standards for how sharp a "fightin' knife" ought to be, but I find that the "classic" fighters are harder to sharpen well.

However, if we're gonna have a soft spot for military cutlery, then I'm inclined to go with hso's pick above.

That's a five-inch blade, a very manageable length, and it's flat ground. I will state with confidence that I could maintain a very slicey and serviceable edge on that blade.

My other fav among military knife designs is the P3 Quartermaster knife. That's another one that I'm pretty sure I could keep sharp.

. . .

All of that said, however, let's go back to the appellation "the SAK of fixed blades."

In no particular order of preference:
  • Finnish Puukko (also used by the Sami people)
  • Swedish Mora (including the Mora 2000 series)
  • Norwegian Helle/Brusletto
These are excellent outdoor and general purpose knives; the product of generations of woodworking and bushcraft. The blade type is often referred to as a "Scandi" or Scandinavian blade.

They are light, strong, sharp and suited to a wide range of tasks. The pattern is now being emulated the world over by people wanting to add a "bushcraft" knife to their product lines. There are a number of custom makers now doing "bushcraft" knives that show clear derivation from the Scandi knife families. You can pay $15 for a Mora or $400 for a custom bushcraft/puukko, and pretty much any price in between.

You want the "SAK" of the fixed blade world?

Go Mora/Puukko/Scandi.

 
But I'm curious. Do you own such a knife? If so, why? How do you use it? How often do you use it? Is it a fav?

I'll cut to the chase: Why would someone who is not a combat specialist own this knife?

Not a fav at all. Have it because I picked it up cheap years ago and haven't thrown it in the yard sale or gun show trade pile yet. I don't really use it.

Question 2: Nostalgia. Neato factor.
 
Nice post, Arf. Will look at them.
__________

Added by edit.

Arf, I just found this Mora 2000 for $30.

Please help me understand why you would pick that knife over a Kabar MKI.

I'm not questioning your advice, just seeking to understand it.
 
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I can answer that one, Nem.

Better grip design. It is very comfortable to use, produces no hot spots, is stable in the hand.
 
I'm new to this forum, so forgive me for jumping in late. I have a long love-affair with this knife, not because of any real value as a fighter (much better knives have been developed since it's inception) or for its utility (there are better ones out there). I love it because it's the knife that saved my dad's life during WWII on a couple of occasions. You've got to think about it in its historical context. When we jumped into WWII, our Marines were issued old, clunky, heavy trench knives dug out of the vaults from WWI. The Kabar was a life-saver and was well-respected and wanted. So, if for anything, I have them because they're still made here in America, they're made like they used to be made, and they are part of our victory in Europe and the Pacific theaters.
 
Thanks, Hso. Makes sense. I look forward to reading Arf's response, also.

10thMtn, welcome to THR. There's a reason my post count is creeping toward 11,000 and I've remained here for nearly 7 years. With a little discernment, you'll find the best advice here on many topics.
 
Ergos & Usability

Nice post, Arf. Will look at them.
__________

Added by edit.

Arf, I just found this Mora 2000 for $30.

Please help me understand why you would pick that knife over a Kabar MKI.

I'm not questioning your advice, just seeking to understand it.

Couple of things, Nem.

Like hso said, the handle ergos are superior. Also, it's made of a steel (12C27 Sandvik) in which I have considerable confidence. It's really sharp. Sharp like slicing a tomato resting in the palm of my hand. I've made salads with mine, chopped up stew ingredients, prepped veggie platters, handled the post-meal processing of a turkey into usable sandwich meat, carved up roast chicken, trimmed cuts of beef & pork, opened packages, cut down heavy cardboard boxes, and done a bit of whittling with it.

It's a very good general purpose knife. It takes an edge easily and keeps it well. It's not at all prone to rust. It's light. It's small enough that it doesn't get in my way, big enough to do regular chores.

I've tried to do those things with a combat knife.

I have pretty decent skills with a knife, but I found most of the tasks awkward with the oversized blade, and the handle tended to encourage only a couple of grips. Veggie preps with a combat knife is pure entertainment; it tends to "throw" pieces of carrot and potato. Think food preps with splitting wedge.

On the other hand, I used a combat knife to trim the unwanted branches on a Christmas tree, and it did a fine job of lopping them off.

Why would I take a Mora over a combat knife? Usability. Broader application.

I trim Xmas trees once a year. I prepare food all year round. I open packages all year round.

Now, having said all that . . .

Of the various combat and dot-mil knives available, the MkI is easily my favorite design. The blade is flat ground, making it useful for a broader range of applications and easier to sharpen -- it will take a real and useful edge. It's not absurdly long, so the blade doesn't have undo leverage over my hands, meaning I'll have better control. The handle is a bit on the round side, and made for bigger mitts than mine, but it's still not bad.

Something to keep in mind is weight.

The Kabar MkI is just over 1.2 pounds (.56 Kg). The Mora 2000 is four ounces, five if you include the sheath.

I can actually get a better range of functionality from a light axe and a Mora knife than I can from a combat knife.

Hatchets like the Trail Blazer (Canada, 17.4 oz; 13 oz for the smaller one) or the Eriksson (Sweden, 18 oz), or maybe the slightly heavier Fiskars X7 (Finland, 22.6 oz).

Trail Blazer Ergo Hatchet: . . . The Smaller one:
Trail-Blazer-Hatchets-BEN-_i_bmc133687z.jpg . . . 227669532.jpg

Eriksson Hand Axe
(ragweedforge.com)
. . . 1991.jpg

Of course a folding saw is lighter than any of those (Buck folding saw, Taiwan, under 5 oz).

Hatchet or saw? Well, if you know it will always and only be wood, then the saw. If you expect to need it in a hunting/skinning application or possibly for defense, then the hatchet.


The point is that if you're going to carry something that weighs more than a pound, it needs to be able to earn its keep, and do so in routine & mundane ways. If the venue is trenches and bleak, smoke-fogged battlefields, then a combat knife will have the edge (if you'll pardon the expression).

If the venue is the woods of Maine or the mountains somewhat further west, the knife + hatchet combo will (*koff*) have the edge.

And if the venue is daily out-and-about, then a 5-ounce compact knife that will tuck into an inside jacket pocket when it's not breaking down boxes or fixing dinner will surely be more suitable.

What about the old "throw it in my toolbox" thing? Well, I have a Mora #2 that I've had in a toolbox for most of the nearly forty years I've had it. I've never had a combat knife of any kind in a toolbox (my traveling kitchen being the exception).


At the risk of confusing the issue, let me finish with a mention of one other place where I do use a heavy knife. I have a traveling kitchen. It's a toolbox that I have pressed into service as my throw-in-car-for-long-trips kitchen utensil box. It is portable only in the sense that anything you can throw in a car is "portable" because the car carries it. In that box is an assortment of camping-friendly tools and equipment. In addition to some plain-Jane kitchen knives, hobo tools, GP camp soap, matches & fire starter, utilities knives, openers, sharpeners, compact cutting board, etc., there is a single heavy duty knife that sits all the way at the bottom. Just because. As in, just because you never know.

Gerber Harsey Hunter/Fighter
The heavy duty knife in my
traveling kitchen box
. . . Gerber-Harsey-1.JPG

It's the only thing in the kitchen box that could plausibly stand in for a hatchet or be of any use as an actual weapon, and it would probably withstand being made to pry open a box or door. It's been in the box since 2005 or 2006. I take it out once in a while to admire it, show it off, or just reassure myself that it's still sharp. It's never actually been used. At all.

That same box also contains a Mora 2000. It's the first thing I reach for on the road when it's time to hack up some salami & cheese, make some celery stix, quarter an apple, or dismember a tomato. Of course, it also lives in the top tray. Shocker, I know.


Yes, the emotional draw of the MkI is greater. I have a considerable affinity for that knife. It is certainly more solid, a knife of more substance.

However, I'm not that teenager any more, and I can't just shrug off an extra twelve or sixteen ounces if I'm gonna carry it for any distance.

If I'm on foot, I have to justify every ounce. "Sentiment" is not an adequate justification for an extra pound of penalty weight. "Just in case" is something that I can get away with in a car, not so much on foot.

So, why the Mora over the MkI?

Weight, versatility, ergonomics.

 
The amount of knowledge on THR is incredible!! I feel like I am reading an instructional book or an encyclopedia. Thanks to everyone for sharing your knowledge,
Jim
 
That's a great essay, Arf. Thought-provoking and useful. Thanks for taking the time.

I may have a few thoughts or questions later.
 
Update. I was at Wally's today (rare visit; saw my first Walmartian!), saw a Bear Grylls Sliding Saw, and bought it. May not be the quality of the Buck Folder that Arf mentioned, but I'll test it and see. From the reviews, it looks like the key is to cut small wood with it instead of full sized redwood trees. :D
 
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