Ontario Gen II SP53

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AStone

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This is a thread about the largest blade in the image below: Ontario Gen II SP 53.

It's my newest for chopping and trail clearing.

My others (except my SOG multi-tool) are included for context and scale - top to bottom:

* SAK
* Manix 2 (EDC)
* SOG Seal Pup Elite (SPE) (fav camp knife)
* Kabar 7"
* SP53

I love the SP 53. Review forthcoming ...
[See post 19]

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Specs

* Sabre grind
* 5160 Carbon steel w/ black epoxy coat
* 57-58 RC hardness
* Blade length: 9-7/16"
* OL: 15-1/4"
* Blade thickness: 1/4"
* Handle: Kraton Comfort Grip
 
I would think almost anything you might need doing you could do with the SP53, Manix 2, and SAK.

I'm a big fan of the "two knives" concept: one big hacker (kukuri/machete/bolo/hatchet) and a smaller task knife. A multi-tool or SAK should, between the three, let you do 99% of what you might need doing in most circumstances. The exceptions will be when you need a specialized tool like a socket wrench.
 
^ I very much agree.

I'd add my SOG SPE to the list in the mid-size range for overlap and redundancy.
It's got something in the balance that the Manix 2 doesn't.

Both fine blades that have their place.

And the SAK's got the tiny blade, screw driver, can opener and cork screw!
 
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Nem, nice blade.

A couple months ago I got an Ontario Gen-II SP-48. The 5160 steel takes a good edge.

One thing I noticed though is that the powder coating Ontario uses on this line of knives adds friction when chopping stuff with it. I even noticed that wood bits would stick to the coating. One of my "around to its" is to strip the powder coating and either blue the blade or give it a patina. I think this will improve its chopping performance.
 
Dave, I looked hard at the SP48 during my research for this acquistion; it got super fine reviews. But went with the saber grind SP53 instead, reasoning - perhaps incorrectly - that saber grind would yield more splitting power for batoning than flat ground. I have no data or models to back that up. Thoughts?

And in general, how do you like the 48? What are you using it for? Part of what I'd like to do in this thread is compare and contrast the 53 with similar blades by both Ontario and other makers (e.g., ESEE Junglas; Kabar Cutlass Machete, etc).

Also, very interesting observation about the powder coating. I hadn't considered that, but it makes sense. That coating is hella rough for a blade.

Can you tell me more about how you would do a bluing or add a patina? I'm not familiar with either technique (though I know what "bluing" is; I've just never done it).

I have noticed also that the 5160 takes more care than stainless (obviously; duh). I was reminded the hard way on my camping trip, the maiden voyage for my 53. I used it on my first hike to cut some saplings out of an un-maintained trail through a clearing, and it was raining while I did. A bit later, the rain increased to heavy for two days of no let up. When I sheathed the knife and headed for shelter, I didn't take care enough to wipe it good and dry.

I was mostly tent bound for the next 15 hours and preoccupied with trying to stay dry (a town near me got 8"; nearly wiped it away, and washed out roads and a railroad bridge), and didn't followup on knife care. When I checked the blade the next day, it already had some tiny rust pits starting up on the unprotected edge. :banghead:

{I touched it up in camp with my tiny little pocket stone, but even though the rust is gone, there are some tiny little imperfections in the edge now. You can just make them out in the image in the OP. Added by edit after consulting another thread: I'm going to use some fine emery paper to touch it up unless others recommend something else.}

I think I'm going to stuff a tiny little mini-towel - a tiny section cut from one of those super absorbent synthetic fiber towels - into the pocket on the sheath for the 53 for wipe down after every use.

I've got more to add about my experiences with the 53 on that 9 day trip, and will add them as soon as I have a bit of time, but within a day or three.
 
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Interesting, Jim. I found a couple of other threads over there from that one about stripping.
Doesn't sound like rocket science.

Now about bluing and patinas .... there are probably threads around THR somewhere ...
(although I don't want to turn this one into a stripping thread, at least not just yet . :p )
 
Last comment on stripping: Why blue or patina? Just keep the blade oiled. If you get some rust: Kano Kroil. All of my rifles and pistol barrels are cleaned with KK and the exterior metal finishes, for many, many years. Yet to have rust on anything...... Sorry for the thread drift

Jim
 
Speaking for myself, I'm going to be camping/backpacking with this blade, and won't have a readily available source of oil (other than cooking oil, and I'd rather use it for cooking).

So, I'd rather have the blade treated in some way, like coated, blued or patina'd (<-- coined a word). I've found a few pages on patinas, now, and it doesn't look hard.

Maybe we can start a separate thread about it, or maybe one exists already.
 
Nem, stick a piece of 600 grit paper in your pack. Oil it when you get home. Alternatively,I have a 1 oz bottle of RemOil that would last you for months, 4.5"x1.5"

I have been looking at your 53 and comparing it to my 1248. Very similar. Handles are comparable. Yours has a more pronounced bottom side hilt. Mine is rounded. But the ergonomics appear similar.
Blade shapes are almost identical other than the cutout at the base of you blade.

I promise I will learn to post pics. My wife (photographer) and I will be working on that this afternoon.

Jim
 
Jim, I agree the differences are small between our two knives.

The 1248 has hollow grind (v saber for the 53). Your blade is over 1.5" longer, also.

IIRC, the 1248 blade is 3/16" whereas the 53 is 1/4". But I can't find the width specs on the 1248 now. That felt important to me since I want to use the 53 for batoning (in part).

Good idea about the sand paper. I may use emery cloth.
_______

PS: here are a couple of THR threads about care for non-stainless blades.
The second contains info about patina, including how to do it.

One

Two
 
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Now about bluing and patinas ....
G96 Creme Blue.
Cleanse the blade with acetone to remove all oils. I've gotten better results applying with a soft plastic tool (cut down automotive paint spreader works well) than using a q-tip or other organic fiber tool. Wipe the excess off with a soft cloth, then cold water rinse to neutralize as per the instruction.

I used this method on an A2 tool steel Wheeler neck knife with excellent results. It gives a nice even almost black finish that's smooth and rust resistant.
 
OK, 4th July. Neighborhood is quiet. I'm cooking ribs and sipping a cold one. Nice time to offer some first impressions of the SP 53.

Before leaving on my camping trip (into west central Maine on the AT), I practiced batoning some 2" diam 15" long wood pieces with it. I'd never tried it before. Piece of cake. Blade split the cured samples in no time. Even handled a 3" piece. The 1/4" thick blade is thick enough to handle that task well, it's flat all the way across, and the length of the blade offered plenty of room on both sides of the wood to strike the top of the blade. Check.

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As it turns out, the area of my camp had a permanent fire restriction in place (not forest fire related, but ... well, the story is complicated so I'll leave it at that), so I built no open fires, thus batoned no more wood. (If I'd had to build an emergency fire, the baton concept would have been useful though: I mentioned in a post above that I got dumped on for 5 of nine days in a very wet set of storms, and the wood was pretty wet.)

So, my main use of it was clearing trails. There are a number of trails in the area, but some are maintained, some are not. I took a couple that were not maintained (to avoid touristas), and ran into several sections where I had to remove briars and saplings up to 1", and trim some limbs up to about an inch also. No problem there, either. For briars and other weeds, a longer dedicated machete (like those I'd used in the past) would have done a better job. It's a better chopper than machete, for sure.

For the tree limbs, the weight of the 53 is excellent, especially since most of the blade is forward. I'd tried to use my Kabar 7" in the past (the 53 is replacing that one), and it was a hassle; not enough length or heft. The 53 just takes them right off.

At one point, I accidentally brushed my left thumb against the blade while trying to wrestle a large limb out of a tangle as rain was picking up from a sprinkle to a pour. It made a small 1/3" cut right on my first knuckle; bled like a stuck pig for a couple of minutes, but pressure with a bandana stopped the blood. First aid kit was in inches away, so I sanitized it and put on a large bandaid. Two days later, I splinted it because bending was preventing healing. It's fine now, but note to self: try not to be stupid with sharp things. :eek:

I did use it also to cut up some 1/2" twigs to feed my hobo stove (homemade prototype produced with a #10 tin can and a couple of metal rods stuck from side to side for a grate; still needs more work to increase air flow). Hacking up limbs into 4" pieces for the stove was simple work.

Just for grins, I hacked up several 2 - 3" inch pieces into fire wood lengths. Piece of cake. Almost as effective as my hatchets of the past, but I found it easier because of the longer blade surface. One review I read before purchasing it suggested that the weight was too heavy, that repeated chopping resulted in fast tiring. Well, I'm a skinny guy, and never got tired while cutting with it. (Of course, I wasn't working with it for hours.) Quite the opposite: I found the extra weight of the 1/4" blade to be an asset. It's got the heft of a hatchet, but handles better.

I also tried my hand at "whittling" a little bit, like Jim has done (described in another thread) with his Kabar 1248. For me, it was mostly striping wet bark off of wood for fire in my stove, but I also created some feather sticks. I choked up on the handle, and let my index finger ride in the choil at the rear of the blade. (I had previously taken the edge off of the blade for 1/2" in front of the choil to prevent cuts.) Very easy; again, the weight and heft of the blade made quick work of feathering, but the handle offered fine control.

Speaking of the handle, I love it. It fits my small hands very well. Grip is excellent, especially with the swollen middle portion and indents all the way around. The grip is actually flattened somewhat on the sides, which greatly increased my ability to grip it with small hands. (It's not large and tubular.)

I had planned to try my hand at cutting some saplings to build a lean to (just for practice), but the weather was just too bad, and I was more interested in hiking on the nice days.

The sheath is adequate, but not great. It has two thumb-snap straps that wrap around the handle. I usually used only the bottom one, closest to the blade. They hold the blade in the sheath very securely. Problem though: the bottom strap curls, so when drawing the blade, it twice cut into the strap; not deeply, but it has some substantive knicks in it. Now, when I draw, I have to take extra care with that.

There are no drain holes or aeration holes that I can see in the kydex.

The sheath has sufficient strapage on the back to fit molle gear, but I usually just stuck it under the compression straps on my pack, with the bottom of the sheath sitting down in a water bottle holder at pack bottom. Like a charm, and easy access.

Next trip, and especially as fall approaches, I'll likely be camping in an area that allows fires, so will let you know about chopping larger wood.

That's it for now.
 
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Thanks, Jim.

Can't wait to see what sheaths you and he cook up for your 1248. :)

I'm sure I'll eventually have a sheath made for the 53, but it's not in the budget right now.
 
Jim, that one is a Kabar 7" blade, one of their standard models; this one, I think.

The full list, top to bottom:

* SAK
* Manix 2 (EDC)
* SOG Seal Pup Elite (SPE) (fav camp knife)
* Kabar 7"
* Ontario Gen II SP53

That's basically all of my knives, but I also have a SOG multi-tool,
but I'm working on it so it's not in the pic (doesn't really fit that image anyway).

I'm not sure I'll keep the Kabar. The 53 replaces it.
 
Nem, looks like you've gotten some good practice in.

Think about liquid bandage. Magic stuff for a first aid kit.

John
 
I just did a little reading on liquid bandage, John. Interesting stuff.

There are several forumulations, based on different compounds (the active ingredient parts).

Do you have one - i.e., a brand - that you prefer?
 
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