Keep the once fired brass or buy new?

gun'sRgood

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Is it worth buying new brass or keeping Hornady's 6.5CM Match if you're loading for target? I've heard that Hornady's brass fatigues quickly and doesn't last long? If you were to buy brass for the 6.5CM, who's brass would you buy? And does all virgin brass have the same length? I find different answers on SR -vs- LR primer holes. If SR is the answer, why wouldn't Hornady use these?
 
Is it worth buying new brass or keeping Hornady's 6.5CM Match if you're loading for target? I've heard that Hornady's brass fatigues quickly and doesn't last long? If you were to buy brass for the 6.5CM, who's brass would you buy? And does all virgin brass have the same length? I find different answers on SR -vs- LR primer holes. If SR is the answer, why wouldn't Hornady use these?

Mostly with the Hornady, and depending on the caliber, the primer pockets stretch if you're loading hot. Buy a pocket go/no go gauge (you should have one anyway), toss them when they won't gauge. For some calibers (like 338 LM), it's real bad, and you usually can't get more than 3 or 4 loadings out of them.

No, virgin brass isn't uniform at all.., every brand and lot will be slightly different. The most consistent is Lapua brand brass in my experience. Nosler (same maker as another brand, can't remember) is pretty good. If you want match quality, last forever brass...Lapua, but they are real proud of it. Best all around brass at the price point is Starline in my opinion.
 
I have a bunch of Hornady 30-06 brass that has a bad rep due to it's lighter weight than other headstamps. I've loaded some of it once with good results but haven't got around to the second yet. If it were me I'd try it out before I tossed it, especially if that's all I had.

I don't think that Hornady makes their own brass, contracting it out to the low bidder.

Nosler (same maker as another brand, can't remember) is pretty good.

Norma has made brass for Nosler in the past, but Nosler was rumored to start making their own by now. I bought some Nosler 6.5 Grendel brass recently and it is definitely high quality, along the lines of Norma or Lapua. I'm thinking it is still of Norma manufacture.
 
I would use what you already own and keep track of how long it lasts. When buying new brass it generally is worth it to spend money on good brass unless the particular gun ruins it after a couple reloads. Then use whatever is cheapest IMO. It all comes down to cost per round and what you are willing to pay for the results you get.
 
6.5 Creedmoor-

I started with 3 boxes of Hornady loaded ammo. 2 different types. Loading with fl bushing die, it should produce many loadings, it didn't.Poor annealing, my guess.
Neck wall thickness uneven. Headstamp strange. Sorted by weight & neck turned, made no difference or different bullets.

Bought Starline as back up. Accuracy same between brands. Axis barrel not up to great accuracy. 1 1/4" average @ 100 yds. ,5 shot groups.

More testing needed, come spring. Youtube videos interesting on primer size. I would stay with LARGE.
The coated bushing could not size the lubed necks correctly. No fixing bad brass. 20230120_101242.jpg 20230120_101145.jpg View attachment 1128472
20230120_101827.jpg

Posted before- https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/hornady-factory-ammo-brass-defect-4th-loading.909184/ Another reloaded had same bad Hornady headstamps.
 
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I have 5 reloads on my Hornady creedmoor brass and no loose pockets yet. You have to take all reloading "knowledge" with a grain of salt. You never know what idiot was loading way over the pressure limit and destroying his primer pockets or who doesn't realize some brands of primers seat a lot easier than others.

Now, the overall quality of the brass, that's another story. The big ammo manufacturers change lots on input materials too much for any real consistency for the really good shooters (which I am not) but it's good enough for me to mostly connect with my 1000 yard steel.
 
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I have read many negative things concerning Hornady brass, but I must say that in my experience using 25/06 and 22/250 Hornady brass nothing could be further from the truth. In my 25/06 I am up to 17 reloads and at 15 with the 22/250 brass. Primer pockets are still tight and no sign of any type of case failure. Mind you my loads are not at the cutting edge of max pressure but I would estimate them in the l mid 50 K PSI range Maybe I was just lucky and hit good batches but I will most certainly give Hornady a try again in the future when I need brass. JME
 
Never dispose of good brass you can use, especially if it's fire formed to your rifle.
Loading note, there are normally a few nodes depending on the powder and chambering. People always smoking pockets are in the highest node at or above Sammi max for that round. If your competing it may be worth it to you in a brass life for points senerio. Guys smoke 223 lapua in 2 or 3 loadings launching 88 Hornadays and 90 smks. Doing that to plink at your local range is just expensive and not nessary.
There are many good brass companies, adg, lapua, alphas, Peterson, and I like Norma but some say they are a step down. Expensive brass is waaaay down on the list to accuracy. Your loading skills is way up on the list.
 
Is it worth buying new brass or keeping Hornady's 6.5CM Match if you're loading for target?

I buy Hornady brass for my 6 Creeds for PRS competition, so my answer is inherently yes, keep the Hornady brass to reuse for reloading.

I've heard that Hornady's brass fatigues quickly and doesn't last long?

I currently have around 2500pc of Hornady 6 creed brass, 500 of which are on their 15th firing. For the money, I have no complaints with this firing count, and every firing I get from here on is just gravy.

If you were to buy brass for the 6.5CM, whose brass would you buy?

If I were to buy something over Hornady, it would be Lapua or Alpha.

And does all virgin brass have the same length?

No.

I find different answers on SR -vs- LR primer holes. If SR is the answer, why wouldn't Hornady use these?

SAAMI standard specs for the Creedmoor cases are LRP, that’s why Hornady uses them. SRP brass, in theory, should last longer, but as I implied above, if I’m getting 15-20 firings, I don’t complain.
 
My Hornady 6.5 Grendel brass has had no issues with primer pockets in 5-6 loadings. My load levels equal Hornady’s factory velocities with 123 gr Hornady bullets. Loaded in an AR rifle.
 
In my experience, Hornady brass in 6.5CM is pretty decent... I've got a fair amount of it. I've not lost any cases, yet... but they are only on their 3rd or 4th load. Having said that, I'm not a big fan of Hornady brass in other chamberings... namely .308, and their too short FTX specialty cartridges.

As AJC mentions, unless you are blowing it out at F1 or something, brass is way down the list on importance. That is not to say proper brass prep isn't a good thing, and brass segregation after a point... (that is, segregating cases by weight or volume, or securing a single lot of brass.)
 
brass is way down the list on importance. That is not to say proper brass prep isn't a good thing, and brass segregation after a point... (that is, segregating cases by weight or volume, or securing a single lot of brass.)

This is kinda talking out of both sides of the mouth - “brass doesn’t really matter, but don’t neglect how much brass matters.”

Case capacity and neck tension (uniform thickness and ductility) are critical to ammo performance. Case head malleability is critical to brass life. Some manufacturers do these things better than others - or rather, some manufacturers work slower and harder to achieve higher levels of performance, which in turn is reflected in the price of the end product.

If a reloader puts zero-value on their time, and fails also to consider opportunity costs of time and investments squandered by waste from capacity sorting (waste AND wasted time for weight sorting), equipment for pocket and flash hole uniforming, flash hole deburring, neck turning, etc, then the books are cooked and the comparison of quality brass to big-brand brass becomes inappropriately clouded.

It is true to say most reloaders are not chasing the level of precision required to notice these differences, and true to say small groups can be fired from any brand of brass - but it is also true to say the overwhelming majority of reloaders who spend time and money to weight sort, capacity sort, neck turn or ream, etc really are NOT getting good value, compared to simply buying better brass, or simply realizing they aren’t shooting small enough for any of what they are doing to matter. Same dudes out there doing load development based on 100 yard 3-5 shot group size… just wasting time, money, and energy.
 
This is kinda talking out of both sides of the mouth - “brass doesn’t really matter, but don’t neglect how much brass matters.”

Again... taking my statements out of context... and you need to quit quoting me when I said no such thing. I will quote myself, since you can't seem to do it...

...unless you are blowing it out at F1 or something, brass is way down the list on importance. That is not to say proper brass prep isn't a good thing...

If you are relying on your brass quality as the only metric to deliver accurate handloads, you're wrong. If you are ignoring your brass, then it's possible you are leaving potential on the table. Before you dump a bunch of money on premium brass, and waste a bunch of time prepping brass... there are other things to consider, including the firearm, it's setup, shooting skill, and other things.

It is true to say most reloaders are not chasing the level of precision required to notice these differences

You just said what I said, except I actually used your quote.
 
Keep your Hornady brass and learn on it, and you'll likely find it's up to the task.

Yep, it wears out faster than premium (Lapua/Alpha) brass, but it works and will meet your requirements.

Later, maybe you'll think the premium brass is worth it, or maybe not, for you.
 
unless you are blowing it out at F1 or something, brass is way down the list on importance.

I selectively quoted because this first part - “unless you’re blowing it out at F1” is largely meaningless, and certainly has no sensible connection to reality.

The common reloader can shoot the difference between high and low quality brass. Not just the elite competitors - and frankly, in most instances, the common Joe behind the press will likely notice MORE performance improvement by using quality brass than will the elite competitor, because the competitor IS spending more time doing things to create uniformity in their brass which will happen inherently, and inadvertently, for the common shooter just by improving the quality of brass they purchase. Consistent neck tension especially promote forgiveness in load development and ammo performance, as does consistent internal capacity - and buying better brass DOES buy that performance. Competition shooters typically buy it, or the time spent to MAKE it is worthwhile compared to the opportunity cost of dropping points or flying shots at matches. But if the common plinker wants smaller groups with less investment, buying better brass is one of the shortest roads to get there.
 
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