Kimber K6S Combat Info and Accuracy

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Ru4real

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A new thread to document Kimber K6S Combat with 4” barrel. Please add info to share / learn.
My combat has:
Recessed cylinders with a relief cut for moon clips from factory
Chamber diameters are 0.381” (New Starline 38 Special brass is 0.377”, my 1937 Colt Officers chambers measure 0.379”)
Three cylinder throats measure 0.359” and three measure 0.360” (I plan to make them all the same)
Cylinder forward gap measures 0.001” and cylinder back gap measures 0.003” for 0.002” end shake (1937 Colt 0.006” shake)

The trigger is pretty good right out of the box. Double action trigger pull feels about the same as my Colt mentioned, my S&W J frame and one of my S&W N frame. Not as good as a S&W that has had trigger work, of which I have one N frame with trigger work performed by S&W Performance Center about 20 years ago. Single action trigger pull has just a touch of creep before the break which is similar to my J frame but not quite on par with most S&W or my Colt example.

I like Colt Diamondbacks, I don’t have one and I’m not willing to pay $1500 for one. Dimension wise, this Kimber is slightly smaller and lighter than a Diamondback.

Currently at 25 yards from a rest 5 shot groups measure 3.5” with two different hand loads. The groups should shrink after I equalize the throats. From the factory with 158 grain jacketed bullet at about 1150 fps, this Kimber’s point of impact was at the bullseye when the front sight dot covered the Bullseye. I’m an “aim small, miss small” shooter, so I filed 0.025” off the front sight. Now I can place the 1” bullseye on top of the front sight. Interestingly, my 158 grain cast bullet load at 940 fps has the same point of impact from this Kimber at 25 yards. Both speeds mentioned, 1150 and 940 are from this 4” Kimber.

Inside the barrel, right at the barrel to frame joint is a ring with slightly larger internal diameter than the rest of the bore. You can feel it with a tight fitting jag on a cleaning rod. In the photo, you can see the dark forcing cone with taper into the lands, and then the “ring” on the land. The ring is a complete circle in the bore, but is easily seen on the land. If the ring was an issue I think it would promote leading with cast bullets, and the gun is not leading, even with in my opinion, oversized throats. I searched to see how the barrel is attached to the frame but couldn’t find any info. If the barrel is threaded, I don’t know what caused the ring. If the barrel has an interference press fit to the frame, then I know what caused the ring. This larger diameter ring is opposite to some of the early non-pinned S&W barrels that had pinched bores.

All in all, I really like this Kimber. It’s not perfect, but it serves me like a Diamondback would have with a little extra. Plus, it’s a fine complement to the first Kimber I bought in the 1990’s that’s had a bajillion rounds though it (3rd slide return spring) and has been a joy to own, carry and compete with.

View attachment 944020

View attachment 944021
 
I really like my 3" K6S, with one exception, and I notice that it is the same on your 4". Why didn't they use the extra real estate to give a full length ejector rod instead of keeping the shorty from the 2" version?

That’s a good question. Have you had issues with removing spent cases? No issues for me.

The rod length leaves about 1/4” for 38 and about 3/8” for 357 in the chambers when the rod is pushed slowly for a test.

View attachment 944276
 
I bought a 2" K6s when they first came out. It is so good my all steel S&W snubbies got lonesome sitting in the back of my safe so I sold them.
Kimber and Grant Cunningham really did their homework and their revolver lineup is hard to beat.
 
No, I have not yet had any ejection issues at the range when using a smart slap of the rod. However, I don't know if that is going to be the case during a stressful event, and a longer rod would be preferable, especially when it would have been easy to implement.


Just a note, a longer rod can have negatives as well such as allowing empty cases to fall under the star, which is a much worse problem than a short rod not completely kicking the cases out. They might have felt like the cost savings outweighed the slight and mostly theoretical benefits of the longer ejection throw.
 
I bought a 2" K6s when they first came out. It is so good my all steel S&W snubbies got lonesome sitting in the back of my safe so I sold them.
Kimber and Grant Cunningham really did their homework and their revolver lineup is hard to beat.

I agree, the Kimber K6S Combat seems like a really good handgun, also.

What loads are you using in your Kimber?
 
Great you jumped in Mr.Revolverguy. Your video, above, was the best Kimber 4” video out there when I was looking a month ago. Thanks for making and posting the video!

I was set on the 4” Target model when I went shopping two weeks ago, but once I aimed that Combat, I began having seconds thoughts on the Target model. Like you, the grip fit my hand PERFECTLY and aiming the Combat felt like an extension of my arm. The instant after I dry fired the Combat in single action, I dug my wallet out LOL!
 
I have shot 110gr factory to 189gr cast through the 4 inch up to 315 rounds now still going strong. Though everyone brags about the trigger and it is worth bragging about it still does not get any better than the gunsmith tuned trigger on my model 65.
 
Ru4Real,

nice write up. I think, that the choke ring right after the forcing cone will have a negative effect on accuracy. I normally reload .358 LRN for range ammo and it has to go through the throats with no or minimal friction. If the barrel has a ring and is reducing bullet diameter to .356, the bullet will loose contact with the rifling and be less accurate than it should be. With a conventional lead bullet an undersized bullet would show more leading than a copper coated one. I would slug the barrel and measure the bullet since I see no reason why the group size should not be smaller.
 
Ru4Real,

nice write up. I think, that the choke ring right after the forcing cone will have a negative effect on accuracy. I normally reload .358 LRN for range ammo and it has to go through the throats with no or minimal friction. If the barrel has a ring and is reducing bullet diameter to .356, the bullet will loose contact with the rifling and be less accurate than it should be. With a conventional lead bullet an undersized bullet would show more leading than a copper coated one. I would slug the barrel and measure the bullet since I see no reason why the group size should not be smaller.

Thank you for the information and insight.

But the ring inside the barrel is slightly larger diameter, not smaller diameter. So the ring is not a choke ring, but instead a ring of less restriction. Still, I think it must have some impact on accuracy.

Should a 25 yard 7 shot group be smaller from a 4” combat revolver? Does anyone else have a better shooting 4” revolver in 357, and if so, what is the make/model and load? I’m guessing there are, but I don’t have any examples.
 
try resting your forearms instead of the revolver. it could be the gun, but i doubt it. could be the ammo, but i doubt it. shoot some factory ammo for group and compare to eliminate the ammo difference.

nice lookin gun!

luck,

murf
 
I am not into "combat" revolvers, though I have two Korth Combat models in .357 Magnum and at 25 meters, they held 1 1/4" with factory ammo. A S&W 15 that I shot with .38 Special reloads held one inch from a sandbag and the MR73 did also. I see no reason why the Kimber should not do the same.
 
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