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Ret.CWO

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This is more of a question than a new post. Several years ago a member posted a very useful program for printing labels using stick on sheets of labels. Avery I think. When my last computer crashed it was one the programs I lost.
Does anyone have the program so that I may download it again. Thanks and Semper Fi
:):):):)
 
Avery has a program you can download from their site where you can select the form your using and it will create labels for them.
 
I just use standard labels from the office supply store and download a template for them
IMG_20131207_225927_208.jpg
 
yep LibreOffice or ApacheOpenOffice are both versions of OpenOffice, the Avery template for the labels worked fine, no need buy software/pay the Microsoft tax. Andropenoffice on my tablet lets me read my reloading logs there too.
 
To OCD for me.;) I just cut a piece of Blue Painters tape and write the date on it with a Sharpie.

The Blue tape can stay on for years and still comes off no problem unlike regular masking tape.
 
I just print a simple lot number on my boxes/bags of ammo. I hand write the actual information in a reloading log book. The lot number is based on a simple date stamp, automatically generated by my 15.00 electronic label maker.

The label goes in the trash at the end of the day. The log is more permanent and is helpful for tracking down all potentially affected lots, if a problem is discovered.

I do the same for lots of brass in various stages of prep. And for home cast bullets. So an entry for finished ammo might include the quantity in that lot, amount/type powder, how it was measured (dipper or measure; if measure, which insert was used), OAL range, and the lot numbers of the cast bullets used and of the primed and prepped brass, for instance. And somewhere further back in the log, the info for the specific lot#'s of bullets and brass has already been recorded, chronologically. The info for the brass could include what expander was used and what brand/type/lot# of primers and quantity of pieces, and it could include any additional sorting or processing I did. The info for the cast bullet could include quantity, alloy lot number, lube and sizing info, air vs water-cooled etc. There might also be a note that I had to clean and lap the top of the mold before that session; therefore, the previous lot of bullets from the same mold might be expected to not be as uniform. And the alloy lot number might include some info for that lot of alloy.

Whenever I open a new lot number of powder or primers, it is also recorded chronologically, so even if I don't record those every time, I can see which lots are before or after. I just have to record it at least the first time I use a new lot of primers/powder.

It's a lot of info. Keeping a chronological log means I only have to record this information once. It has come in handy. I recently found one of my regular standby loads had grown slighty too long to easily chamber. This had never happened before; I mean, I guess I never knew exactly how long was too long. But I could track back to the last time I changed the seating die and I was able to identify and fix all the affected lots of ammo. For the future, I know pretty much exactly the maximum this bullet can be seated before it is a problem, if I refer to my log.
 
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I keep a log and keep the info on the boxes, that way if I can just grab a box without checking the log or such. I prefer redundancy.
 
Yeah, true. Most of my reloads for a caliber are superficially the same, so I already know what they are. I have one load for that bullet. But even if they're supposed to be identical, ballistically, I don't dump the products of one reloading session with another. Like grabbing a box of commercial ammo, say 155 grain Rangers. They're the same ammo as any other box of 155 grain Rangers... unless there's a dud primer or something. Only then do I care what lot# of primers were used in that box.
 
When I printed my own labels, I used the Avery program....It's pretty simple.

Now, I just get a preprinted one I got in bulk from Midway years ago that were made by Frankford Arsenal. They were on sale very cheap per package and bought like 20+ packs of them.....100 per pack.
What can I say ???....except I have used the blue and other colors of painters tape also. ( I print so I can read my writing ) :D

My hand writing looks like my 3 year old Grandson wrote it.
My momma always said I should have been a Doctor..:eek:

TxD
 
Avery design and print online. Enter the type of labels you have and put your information in. It's a simple and fairly useful format.
 
To OCD for me. I just cut a piece of Blue Painters tape and write the date on it with a Sharpie.
The Blue tape can stay on for years and still comes off no problem unlike regular masking tape.
Thats what I do too!
Load data & date on blue tape on the lid.

More recently, I went to typing paper taped inside the lid with Scotch Magic Tape on clear plastic boxes.
Stays put forever, until you want to change it.

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Works better then adhesive labels you can never get peeled of again without using acetone to get the sticky glue off.

rc
 
I have this set up to print on the 2" x 4" labels. Feel free to use it. My original is in Publisher, so it wouldn't do much good to post that.
 

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I use the Avery labels to print multiple sheets of formatted labels at a time. I set up a template in excel with boxes and lines for the information. It was a pain setting up the spacing in the template, but now all I have to do is drop a few sheets into the printer and hit print.
 
I like testing new loads and make up 10-20 rounds of each load. Loads go in plastic bag with label. When fired, the label goes on the target, so I can measure group size and enter the information in my log at home.
I like the Brother P-touch thermal label maker.
 
I guess I need to catch up to modern times! Before PC's were common I used file labels. There are a few dozen on an 8 1/2 x 11 sheet and lots of sheets in a package. Still using the ones I bought 30 years ago. I do use a label maker to mark the caliber on the ammo boxes. They are getting cheaper and better all the time.
 
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